How to make a soldering iron from a resistor

Power regulator for soldering iron

Hello dear readers of the site sesaga.ru. In this article I will tell you how to assemble a simple power regulator for a soldering iron , which allows you to smoothly change the voltage on the heating element, thereby maintaining the optimal temperature of the soldering iron tip.

If the tip is not warmed up enough, the solder melts slowly, and the soldering iron has to be kept pressed to the leads of the parts longer, which can lead to their failure.

Soldering with an overheated tip also turns out to be fragile. The solder does not stick to such a tip, but simply rolls off it.

Hence the conclusion: so that soldering is not painful, and the working part of the soldering iron is always well heated, it needs to be maintained at an optimal temperature.

Attention! This design has transformerless AC power supply. When assembling it, pay special attention to compliance with safety precautions when working with electrical installations.

Schematic diagram of the power regulator

I assembled this circuit so long ago that I don’t even remember when. It was published in the magazine “Radio” No. 2-3 for 1992 by I. Nechaev, and during the entire period of operation of the regulator there was not a single failure.

As you can see, the circuit is very simple, and consists of only two parts: a power circuit and a control circuit.

The power part includes thyristor VS1, from the anode of which an adjustable voltage is removed, through which the soldering iron is connected to a 220V network.

A control circuit assembled on transistors VT1 and VT2 controls the operation of the thyristor. It is powered through a parametric stabilizer formed by resistor R5 and zener diode VD1. Zener diode VD1 serves to stabilize and limit a possible increase in the voltage supplying the control circuit. Resistor R5 dampens excess voltage, and variable resistor R2 regulates the output voltage of the power regulator.

This is the small kit we will need to assemble a power regulator for a soldering iron.

Construction and details

The circuit uses two silicon transistors: KT315 and KT361. Since their cases are the same, they differ in the location of the letter marking. In the figure, these places are indicated by arrows.

For the KT315 transistor, the letter is always located in the upper left corner of the case, and for the KT361 the letter is always placed in the middle of the case . All other designations are: year of manufacture, month, batch.

The following figure shows a diode and a zener diode. Here you need to pay attention to the pinout of their conclusions. As a rule, the pinout is applied on the element body in the form of a strip, dot or several dots on the side of the designated terminal .

There are also diodes in which the diode symbol used on circuit diagrams is marked on the body. How exactly the designation is applied to the terminals means that this arrangement of the anode and cathode corresponds to reality.

For imported diodes and zener diodes, a strip is applied on the cathode output side, and for powerful ones, the pinout is applied in the form of a diode symbol.

For Soviet and Russian diodes, the pinout is slightly different from the imported one. Here we use a strip, dots, and the symbol of a diode. In addition, both the anode terminal and the cathode terminal are also designated. So, in any case, it is advisable to use a reference book or measuring device to more accurately determine the conclusions.

In the power regulator circuit, a thyristor is used as an adjustable element. The thyristor itself resembles a diode, only it has one more terminal - a control electrode.

In the closed state, the thyristor does not pass current, and if an unlocking voltage is applied to its control electrode, the thyristor will open and current will flow through the anode and cathode. The greater the unlocking voltage current, the greater the current the thyristor will pass through itself.

If problems arise with purchasing resistor R5, it can be made from two resistors connected in series. All other details are simple, so we won’t dwell on them.

As you may have guessed, we will take a surface-mounted socket as the body of the power regulator. When you buy, pay attention that the socket itself is made of plastic and not ceramic.

This is necessary so that if suddenly the thyristor does not fit into the housing, then you can always cut off an extra piece from the plastic.

We will assemble the regulator from two parts. It is better to assemble the low-voltage part on foil fiberglass, thick cardboard or any other dielectric material - it will be neater. But we will make the high-voltage part by hanging installation, as shown in the figure below.

Here the holes are indicated by black dots, and all connections between points and parts - tracks , are shown by blue lines.
The control circuit board and the power section are connected to each other by three red conductors.

Power regulator control circuit board

If you do not have experience, then it is better to do the installation on thick cardboard. At the same time, you will understand how the elements are assembled into a circuit, and for such a circuit it is wasteful to spend textolite and ferric chloride. Moreover, almost all radio amateurs started with cardboard or plywood. I myself assembled my first transistor receiver on cardboard.

Everything is very simple here.
You make holes in the cardboard and insert radio components into them. Bend the leads on the back of the cardboard and solder them together to assemble the circuit. Take a piece of cardboard to spare. Then cut off the excess.

This is the control circuit board I got.

Source: https://sesaga.ru/regulyator-moshhnosti-dlya-payalnika.html

Homemade soldering iron: how to make a device with your own hands - Turner Master

> Tools > How to make a soldering iron with your own hands

A soldering iron is an indispensable device for radio amateurs and home craftsmen. Often there is a need to solder away from a 220 V power outlet and use, for example, a 12-volt car battery for connection.

When soldering subminiature devices, mini soldering irons with special characteristics are required. In this regard, many are wondering how to make a soldering iron with their own hands, getting a convenient device and saving money.

Making a soldering iron with your own hands

Soldering iron for SMD

SMD devices are the chips found in mobile phones, laptops or tablets. The installation of circuit elements is carried out on a site with contacts, where there is a thermal barrier to prevent the spread of heat along the tracks.

Soldering iron requirements for SMD:

1. The power should not be more than 10 W;
2. The temperature of the soldering iron should not be higher than that which the microcircuit element can withstand;
3. If the tip is too cold, then a long soldering procedure can have an even worse effect on the part due to the long time of thermal exposure;
4. It is necessary to achieve heating of the tip approximately 40°C higher than the temperature at which the solder melts. The main obstacle here is the inertia of the soldering iron.

Material for making the sting

The best tip is nickel-plated copper with additives. This is the most expensive material and finding it for making a soldering iron with your own hands is problematic.

A bronze or brass tip is not suitable for soldering SMD boards because it has high thermal inertia.

A copper tip also has disadvantages: a short service life due to burning, but it can be easily changed. But copper has high thermal conductivity, and there is no better material for working with miniature circuit boards.

You can make a mini soldering iron with your own hands from an MLT-0.5 resistor. Its tube is thin enough and will not interfere with heating the tip.

What you need to prepare:

• body from a simple ballpoint pen;
• MLT-0.5 with resistance from 5 to 10 Ohms;
• piece of textolite 1-3 cm;
• steel wire 0.8 mm;
• copper wire 1 mm.

Manufacturing stages

1. Remove paint from the resistor with a sharp object. If it doesn’t clean well, connect it to a power source to warm it up;

Preparing the MLT-0.5 resistor

1. At one end of the resistor, cut off the lead and drill a hole into which a piece of copper wire is inserted - the future soldering iron tip. Straighten the second terminal and leave it, it will serve as one current conductor;

Important! The tip should fit into the hole in the ceramic body, but not touch the walls of the side metal cup. To do this, the hole in the cup should be slightly wider than in the body. By the way, only domestic resistors have a housing with holes.

1. A cut is made along the surface of the same metal cup to lay the second conductor;
2. The second conductor is made of steel wire, which is bent so that an open ring is formed in the middle, which fits tightly into the cut;

Mini soldering iron circuit

1. In the upper part of the body of a ballpoint pen or some other suitable hollow plastic rod, a board made of double-sided PCB must be installed, which is given the required shape;
2. A steel wire ring is placed over the cup and soldered to ensure good contact. This negative conductor also serves as a fastening element;
3. Current conductors are soldered to the upper part of the PCB board on both sides, and conductors are soldered to the lower part, which are threaded into a plastic tube (handle body);
4. Before placing the tip, a tiny piece of mica must be placed inside so that the copper does not come into contact with the resistor cup located at the other end. The tip can be replaced periodically.

Assembled mini soldering iron

For the supply wire it is good to take MGTF. Its insulation can withstand accidental contact with the heating element.

Soldering with such a home-made tool is performed with ordinary solder and flux. A homemade soldering iron is powered from a power supply.

You should get 7-10 V at the output, depending on the resistance of the resistor. It’s a good idea to use a power supply where you can regulate the voltage.

Ready soldering iron with cord

Soldering iron made from a resistor

The wirewound resistor is an existing nichrome heater. It is capable of heating up to 250°C when the power is dissipated into the surrounding space.

If you install a tip that will remove heat, the resistor can withstand a double power overload for a long time. The tip will heat up to 300°C.

You can increase the heating by creating a threefold overload, but then the homemade soldering iron must be turned off periodically (every 1.5 hours).

When calculating a soldering iron, the resistance and power of the resistor are taken into account. The resistor should be of the PEV type, old, but still in production. They are covered with glassy enamel, can withstand repeated overheating, and can only darken.

Resistor PEV-10

Important! Resistors of type C5-35B, which cannot be used, are painted on all sides. The paint is not completely removed. When a device made from them heats up, the paint melts and the tip can become stuck forever, without the possibility of replacement.

From the PEV-10 resistor you can construct a soldering iron with a power of 30-40 W. Moreover, if you power it from a 12-volt source, the resistance should be approximately 5 ohms. If the device will operate from a 220 V network, it is necessary to use PEV-20 with a significantly higher resistance. The design of such a soldering iron is similar in principle, but differs in execution.

How to make a mini soldering iron from a resistor, powered by a 12-volt voltage source, can be seen using the example:

1. It is necessary to prepare the design of the tip so that it is inserted tightly into the ceramic body. A copper rod with a diameter approximately corresponding to the size of the hole in the body is taken and drilled on both sides: for the sting, which will be a slightly smaller rod, and for the bolt for fastening. Both holes must be threaded, as well as on the surface of the tip;

Soldering iron assembly

1. A cut is made on the larger rod, where a ring is put on to fix the entire structure;
2. Now you need to solder the electrical cord to the terminals of the resistor and make a comfortable handle from insulating material. To protect and strengthen the copper leads of the resistor, you can attach metal clamps to the top of them.

An example of a soldering iron made from a PEV-10 resistor

Important! The operating current of the manufactured mini soldering iron should not be higher than 1 A.

These are the two simplest designs of an electric soldering iron. Experienced home craftsmen can complicate them by not using a resistor, but by making the heating element themselves.

A copper wire or rod is used for the sting. Nichrome wire can be used from an iron spiral, having previously pulled it out using a suspended weight, while simultaneously heating it with a passing current. A mica wrapper is made on the sting, and nichrome wire is wound. Such a tool requires more complex calculations.

Making your own soldering iron from a resistor will require basic skills and calculations, but you can become the owner of a cheap and convenient tool for working with microcircuits.

Source: https://tokarmaster.ru/osnovy-varki/samodelnyj-payalnik-kak-sdelat-pribor-svoimi-rukami.html

Do-it-yourself mini soldering iron from Krona

A do-it-yourself ceramic soldering iron is made according to a pre-designed diagram. Experts advise that you assemble a homemade unit after studying the principle of its operation. You can assemble a soldering iron of different power. Massive devices can be connected to a 220 V outlet.

Soldering iron device

An electric soldering iron consists of a rod, a heating element, a tip, a holder and an electrical cord with a plug. The rod heats up to the melting temperature of the solder, transferring heat to the tip. This part of the device is considered working.

Before making a soldering iron at home, it is recommended to determine its physical characteristics. Private brand solder - POS 61, melting point - 190 ºС, and working tip temperature - 300 ºС. To heat an electric soldering iron with your own hands, use an open fire, the tip of another more powerful tool, and a small resistor.

Application of resistor

To assemble a soldering iron from a resistor with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

• a resistor with a resistance of 20 Ohms and a power of 7 Watts;
• plate;
• copper rods;
• screw with washer.

The manufactured device will be able to operate at voltages from 6 to 24 Volts. Tool assembly steps:

1. A hole is drilled in the end of the rod. Then a groove is cut for the retainer.
2. A hole for the sting is drilled from the other end.
3. Assembly of rod elements.
4. Preparing a resistor for fixing the tip.
5. Making the handle.
6. Connecting the cord to the instrument terminals.
7. Checking the heater.

Another option for making a mini-soldering iron with your own hands is to use an MLT resistor and a ballpoint pen . You will also need the following materials:

• wire with a diameter of 1 mm;
• double-sided textolite;
• wires.

To assemble a micro-soldering iron at home, you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Remove paint from resistor.
2. One wire that comes out of the barrel is cut off. A hole for the copper wire is drilled at this point. A small gap is made on the resistor cup for the current conductor.
3. It is necessary to bend the steel wire into the shape of a handle.
4. Cutting out a board from PCB.
5. Assembly of prepared elements.
6. Installation of the tip.
7. Connecting a homemade tool with a low-voltage power supply (up to 12 volts) and a voltage of maximum 5 A.

Assembling a pulse soldering iron

To make a powerful soldering iron, you need to understand radio engineering. The advantage of such a unit is that the tip heats up quickly after turning on the power. You can use a soldering iron to melt tin.

To assemble it you will need a ferrite ring . The primary winding should have 100-120 turns. The tip is connected to the secondary winding, and one terminal is connected to the mains winding of the battery.

To solder massive parts, specialists use a hammer soldering iron. It must be heated over a fire. It has sufficient heat capacity over a certain period of time.

To obtain a sting, it is recommended to rivet the block. It is then filed with files to obtain smooth edges. It is necessary to maintain a sharpening angle of 30º. A holder is forged from the rod, attaching it to the sting. To avoid being distracted by heating the tip during operation, a mini-gas burner is attached to the tool.

Battery unit assembly

To make a cordless soldering iron with your own hands, you use a lithium-ion battery standard 18650, a charging board and a small switch with a lock. At the first stage of assembly, the body is made. The working elements of the soldering iron are fixed inside onto an ebonite terminal.

If you use such a soldering iron for more than 10 minutes, the ebonite will begin to stink. The advantage of such a button is the presence of a brass threaded bushing. To prevent the plastic case from melting, its front part is trimmed. It is replaced with an implant made of fiberglass. The body elements are glued together.

The battery unit is designed for a voltage of 9 volts. You don't have to use a converter if you connect 2 batteries in series. But in this case, the dimensions and weight of the soldering iron will increase. This device can be charged from a USB connector.

If a converter is used, its voltage should be 30 Volts and the current 2 A. If the diode and the microcircuit get very hot, at a certain point the temperature will not rise. But the throttle may burn out. It is recommended to install a voltage stabilizer of 3 A.

Power Inverter Connection

The next step is connecting the inverter to a battery or power source. It is necessary to apply a voltage of up to 4 Volts. By rotating the resistor, you can achieve 9 volts of output voltage. Additionally, 2 LED indicators can be replaced.

If the tool will be used in the field , it is recommended to take several charged batteries with you. A soldering iron designed according to this scheme can be equipped with a charge indicator and an LED that will light up when it is turned on.

Testing

The assembled device must be tested. The tip can heat up to a high temperature of 350º. The inverter easily regulates the output voltage, including the temperature at which the tip heats up.

If possible, a variable resistor is placed in the right place, which allows you to get a cordless tool with the ability to adjust the temperature.

Among the disadvantages of the assembled device, experts highlight a 10% loss of power.

Tool from a tin can

You can assemble a soldering iron for soldering SMD parts. A jump rope is used to make the handle. A hole is drilled into the handles. Self-tapping screws are used for fastening elements. With their help, the instrument body is assembled. Threaded bushings can be made using this method. The spring from a ballpoint pen is glued into the hole.

The frame of the instrument is a small tube bent from a tin can. A template for bending this tube is pre-prepared. For this, copper wire with a diameter of 2.5 mm is used. It is also used to make stings.

The holes made in the housing must have the correct shape. To make them, use drills with zapfenbor sharpening. Using holes with a diameter of 3 and 4 mm, you can reduce the temperature of the housing at the junction with the handle. The assembled instrument is used intermittently.

Source: https://stoiportal.ru/mini-payalnik-ot-krony-svoimi-rukami.html

How to make a micro-soldering iron with your own hands - Metals, equipment, instructions

Among the variety of electrical connections, soldering wires occupies a special position. Any electrician will confirm that connecting radio-electronic components is unthinkable without using a tool such as a soldering iron.

Today, the production of such devices of various modifications has been launched - from industrial soldering units to miniature soldering irons used in everyday life.

It often happens that the design and power of the device do not allow the required installation to be performed, or circumstances arise when you urgently need to solder some part, but you do not have the necessary tool at hand. With a little effort and using simple components, you can make a soldering iron at home.

Homemade soldering iron: complex design

List of required materials:

• copper wire (d=1.5 mm, l=40 mm);
• a small sheet of copper foil;
• precision alloy wire (d=0.1 mm, l=300 mm);
• tin tube;
• silicate adhesive mixture or liquid glass;
• talc;
• handle made of heat-resistant material;
• electrical wire with plug.

You will also need a few auxiliary things:

• source of thermal energy (a gas or electric stove is suitable);
• metalworking tools (pliers, files, tweezers);
• small wooden or plastic spatula;
• a rag for removing the insulating mixture from the device.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

1. A pre-cut piece of copper rod is used to make a sting. In this case, it is advisable to sharpen one end at an angle of 45 degrees, but the choice of the shape of sharpening the tip remains solely at the discretion of the master. The treated area is tinned.
2. An electrical insulating mixture is prepared, including talc and silicate glue. The kneaded mass should have a dough-like structure.

   When working with such sticky material, from time to time you will have to sprinkle your hands and tools with crushed talcum powder.

3. Copper foil is tightly wrapped around the tip, while keeping the working area (10 mm) open.
4. A thin insulating layer is carefully applied to the copper surface. To make it dry faster, the future soldering iron is held above a heat source.
5. A spiral is wound from precision (nichrome) wire.

   It is worth noting that each turn should lie tightly.

   The straight end should ultimately be approximately 30 mm, and the turned end should be 50 mm.

6. Now the winding is coated with an electrical insulating compound and dried thoroughly.
7. The long end is placed on the tube so that between it and the short end there is a maximum gap approximately comparable to the diameter of the structure. The electrically insulating mixture is applied again, dried again, after which the preparation of the heating element with the tip built into it is considered complete.
8. Each protruding end of the nichrome wire is half coated with an insulating compound and dried. It is important to carefully monitor the integrity of the coating during baking. If defects appear, they are eliminated by sealing with the mixture and drying again.
9. At the final stage, all that remains is to assemble the structure.

   Pull the wire through the hole in the handle, connect the nichrome ends to the bare ends of the wire, and insulate the connection area.

10. A protective casing is placed on the heating element. One end of it is inserted into the handle, and the other is fixed with an iron cap with a hole that prevents it from contacting the copper contents of the heater. Some are limited to a clamp.

Resistor tool

How to make a soldering iron at home using a passive element of an electrical circuit? Using a resistor C5−35 V (R=20 Ohm, P=7 W), you can design a good automotive soldering iron for electrical work in the garage.

It will be powered by a twelve-volt battery. Ceramic resistor is known to be able to withstand high temperatures and has a power dissipation ranging from 3 to 150 W.

To make the element body, heat-resistant ceramics are used; thin nichrome wire serves as the working element.

Stages of work

1. Due to the fact that there is no need to make a heating element, since its function will be performed by a resistor, we immediately proceed to the manufacture of the working tip and heat conductor. One copper rod (thicker) is installed inside the resistor. It will accumulate thermal energy. The other, in turn, will become a working sting.

   If the thick rod is not tightly adjusted to the inner diameter of the heater, heat loss is possible.

2. A threaded hole is drilled at one end for the mounting screw to fit in, and at the other for the working tip. The rod is fitted to the ceramic heater and a groove is machined for the retaining ring. The structure is assembled into a single whole.
3. The resulting structure is installed in a resistor and checked. The connection to the battery is made via a fuse.
4. Make a heat-resistant soldering iron handle. The pistol type is most comfortable to hold in the hand. Two mirror parts are cut out from textolite or ebonite.

   Holes are drilled in them, which are needed to fix the heating element.

5. Select grooves for wiring. If desired, install a fixed switch.
6. The structure is assembled into a single device. To connect the soldering iron to the battery, you can solder a plug for the cigarette lighter connector.

   A more practical solution would be to equip the wire with universal clamps, which will allow you to directly connect the device to the battery terminals, avoiding sudden fuse blowing.

Low voltage device made from a ballpoint pen

To make a soldering iron you will need the following attributes:

• stationery pen;
• MLT type resistor;
• a piece of double-sided PCB;
• steel wire (d=0.5 mm);
• copper wire with diameter (d=1 mm).

Algorithm of actions

1. First of all, remove the paint layer from the surface of the MLT-0.5 resistor. A razor blade or kitchen knife is suitable for this. If the paint does not want to peel off, then you can connect the element to a power source and warm it up slightly.
2. Prepare a cylindrical barrel.

   One wire coming out of it is cut off. In this place a hole is drilled for the copper wire. It must be remembered that contact of the wire with the cup is unacceptable, so countersinking is done with a drill with a large diameter.

   After this, a small cut is made for the conductive rod on the MLT cup.

3. A small ring is formed from steel wire, the diameter corresponding to the cut on the MLT.
4. A board is cut out of a piece of textolite. Its dimensions are calculated based on the size of the ballpoint pen and the available wire.
5. All nodes are brought together.

   A thin tip is installed in the seating area. You need to be extremely careful not to accidentally burn the miniature structure. A protective layer is made from mica. Thanks to it, the copper wire will not burn through the resistor.

6. Check the homemade device by connecting it to the electrical network using a regular 1 A power supply. The voltage must not exceed 15 V.

DIY mini soldering iron

The simplest miniature soldering iron can work with various small devices and parts. Using such a tool, you can easily dismantle or seal the smallest radio components and microcircuits.

The mini-soldering iron assembly diagram is quite simple and does not require special skills. The structure is assembled from scrap materials found in every home.

Power for the soldering iron is provided by a transformer from a household appliance. You can use any microtransformer from the frame scan of a faulty TV. The working tip is made of thin copper wire, which is simply inserted into the heating element.

Of course, professionals use modern soldering stations and hot air guns, but these devices are expensive and are only available to service specialists. A simple person who has managed to make a soldering iron with his own hands has the opportunity to repair an electrical device without contacting a service center.

Source: https://spb-metalloobrabotka.com/kak-sdelat-mikropayalnik-svoimi-rukami/

DIY power regulator for a soldering iron - diagrams and installation options

There are many models of soldering irons in stores - from cheap Chinese ones to expensive ones with a built-in temperature controller; they even sell soldering stations.

Another thing is, is the same station needed if such work needs to be done once a year, or even less often? It's easier to buy an inexpensive soldering iron. And some people still have simple but reliable Soviet instruments at home. A soldering iron that is not equipped with additional functionality heats up as long as the plug is plugged in.

And when turned off, it cools down quickly. An overheated soldering iron can ruin the work: it becomes impossible to solder anything firmly, the flux quickly evaporates, the tip oxidizes and the solder rolls off it.

An insufficiently heated tool can completely ruin the parts - due to the fact that solder does not melt well, the soldering iron can be held close to the parts.

To make work more comfortable, you can assemble a power regulator with your own hands, which will limit the voltage and thereby prevent the soldering iron tip from overheating.

DIY soldering iron regulators. Overview of installation methods

Depending on the type and set of radio components, power regulators for a soldering iron can be of different sizes, with different functionality. You can assemble either a small simple device, in which heating is stopped and resumed by pressing a button, or a large one, with a digital indicator and program control.

Possible types of installation in the housing: plug, socket, station

Depending on the power and tasks, the regulator can be placed in several types of housing. The simplest and most convenient one is a fork. To do this, you can use a cell phone charger or the housing of any adapter. All that remains is to find the handle and place it in the wall of the case. If the soldering iron body allows it (there is enough space), you can place the board with the parts in it.

Such a power regulator is always with the soldering iron - it cannot be forgotten or lost

Another type of housing for simple regulators is a socket. It can be either single or a tee-extension. In the latter you can very conveniently place a handle with a scale.

The case is convenient for placing a board with parts. In place of one and sockets there is a switch handle with a scale

There may also be several options for installing a regulator with a voltage indicator. It all depends on the radio amateur’s intelligence and imagination. This can be either the obvious option - an extension cord with an indicator built into it, or original solutions.

The counter on the case gives accurate numbers for work where a strictly defined temperature is important. The board is secured inside with screws

You can even assemble something like a soldering station and install a soldering iron stand on it (it can be purchased separately). When installing, we must not forget about safety rules. The parts need to be insulated - for example, with heat-shrink tubing.

Circuit options depending on the power limiter

The power regulator can be assembled according to different schemes. The main differences lie in the semiconductor part, the device that will regulate the flow of current. This could be a thyristor or triac. For more precise control of the operation of a thyristor or triac, you can add a microcontroller to the circuit.

You can make a simple regulator with a diode and a switch - in order to leave the soldering iron in working condition for some (possibly long) time, without allowing it to cool down or overheat.

The remaining controls make it possible to set the temperature of the soldering iron tip more smoothly - to suit various needs. Assembling the device according to any of the schemes is done in a similar way. The photographs and videos provide examples of how you can assemble a power regulator for a soldering iron with your own hands.

Based on them, you can make a device with the variations you personally need and according to your own design.

A thyristor is a kind of electronic key. Passes current in only one direction. Unlike a diode, a thyristor has 3 outputs - a control electrode, an anode and a cathode. The thyristor opens by applying a pulse to the electrode. It closes when the direction changes or the current flowing through it stops.

Thyristor, its main components and display on diagrams

A triac , or triac, is a type of thyristor, but unlike this device, it is double-sided and conducts current in both directions. It is essentially two thyristors connected together.

Triac or triac. Main parts, principle of operation and method of display in diagrams. A1 and A2 - power electrodes, G - control gate

The power regulator circuit for a soldering iron, depending on its capabilities, includes the following radio components.

Resistor - serves to convert voltage into current and vice versa. Capacitor - the main role of this device is that it stops conducting current as soon as it is discharged. And it begins to conduct again - as the charge reaches the required value. In regulator circuits, the capacitor is used to turn off the thyristor.

A diode is a semiconductor, an element that passes current in the forward direction and does not pass in the reverse direction. A subtype of diode - a zener diode - is used in devices for voltage stabilization. A microcontroller is a microcircuit that provides electronic control of a device. There are varying degrees of difficulty.

Diodes do not conduct current in the opposite direction. This is how a diode is designated in the diagrams. Zener diodes are used to stabilize the voltage. The capacitor is used mainly to turn off the thyristor. The appearance of the resistor and the method of display on the diagram. The microcontroller makes it possible to programmatically control the device.

Circuit with switch and diode

This type of regulator is the easiest to assemble, with the fewest parts. It can be collected without payment, by weight. The switch (button) closes the circuit - all voltage is supplied to the soldering iron, opens it - the voltage drops, and so does the temperature of the tip. The soldering iron remains heated - this method is good for standby mode. A rectifier diode rated for a current of 1 Ampere is suitable.

The easiest regulator to install

1. Prepare parts and tools: diode (1N4007), switch with button, cable with plug (this can be a soldering iron cable or an extension cord - if you are afraid of ruining the soldering iron), wires, flux, solder, soldering iron, knife.
2. Strip and then tin the wires.
3. Tin the diode.

   Solder the wires to the diode. Remove excess ends of the diode. Put on heat-shrinkable tubes and apply heat. You can also use an electrically insulating tube - cambric. Prepare a cable with a plug in the place where it will be more convenient to mount the switch. Cut the insulation, cut one of the wires inside.

   Leave part of the insulation and the second wire intact. Strip the ends of the cut wire.

4. Place the diode inside the switch: the minus of the diode is towards the plug, the plus is towards the switch.
5. Twist the ends of the cut wire and the wires connected to the diode. The diode must be inside the gap. The wires can be soldered.

   Connect to terminals, tighten screws. Assemble the switch.

Thyristor regulator

A regulator with a power limiter - a thyristor - allows you to smoothly set the temperature of the soldering iron from 50 to 100%. In order to expand this scale (from zero to 100%), you need to add a diode bridge to the circuit. The assembly of regulators on both a thyristor and a triac is done in a similar way. The method can be applied to any device of this type.

An example of mounting a thyristor regulator on a board

Assembling a thyristor (triac) regulator on a printed circuit board

1. Make a wiring diagram - outline a convenient location of all the parts on the board. If the board is purchased, the wiring diagram is included in the kit.
2. Prepare parts and tools: printed circuit board (it must be made in advance according to the diagram or purchased), radio components - see the specification for the diagram, wire cutters, knife, wires, flux, solder, soldering iron.
3. Place the parts on the board according to the wiring diagram.
4. Use wire cutters to cut off the excess ends of the parts.
5. Lubricate with flux and solder each part - first resistors with capacitors, then diodes, transistors, thyristor (triac), dinistor.
6. Prepare the housing for assembly.
7. Strip and tin the wires, solder them to the board according to the wiring diagram, and install the board into the case. Insulate the connection points of the wires.
8. Check the regulator - connect it to an incandescent lamp.
9. Assemble the device.

Circuit with low-power thyristor

A low-power thyristor is inexpensive and takes up little space. Its peculiarity is increased sensitivity. To control it, a variable resistor and capacitor are used. Suitable for devices with a power of no more than 40 W.

This regulator does not require additional cooling

Specification

Circuit with a powerful thyristor

The thyristor is controlled by two transistors. The power level is controlled by resistor R2. The regulator assembled according to this scheme is designed for a load of up to 100 W.

The regulator is optimal for loads up to 100 W

Specification

Assembling a thyristor regulator according to the above diagram into a housing - visually

Source: https://tehznatok.com/remont/regulyator-moshhnosti-dlya-payalnika-svoimi-rukami-shemyi-i-variantyi-montazha.html

Powerful DIY soldering iron

Sometimes there are situations when the owner simply cannot do without a simple soldering iron. For example, you need to tin a multi-core cable for an outlet, or remove a part from a burnt-out device. At such moments, you have to either borrow a tool or postpone the matter indefinitely. After all, not everyone wants to buy an expensive soldering iron or soldering station if he is not a repairman.

However, there is a simple way out of this situation - to assemble a small soldering iron yourself; it is just right for small work. The manufacturing process will not take much time and effort, but you will be able to save some money and gain invaluable experience. Next, we will tell you how to make a soldering iron with your own hands at home.

You will be offered several designs, and you can choose the one that suits you best.

Idea No. 1 – Use a resistor

The first and simplest technology for making an electric soldering iron with your own hands is using a powerful resistor. The device will be designed to operate at voltages from 6 to 24 Volts, which will allow it to be powered from various current sources, and even make a portable version powered by a car battery. In order to make your own instrument, you will need the following materials:

• Soviet wirewound resistor (WWW), covered with ceramic insulation with a resistance of 20 Ohms and a power of 7 Watts. You can choose components with other characteristics, depending on what power you want to make the soldering iron and what voltage you plan to power it from. Here is the simplest formula for calculation: R = U²/P.

  Where R is resistance measured in Ohms; U is the voltage that is planned to power the soldering iron, in Volts; P is the desired heater power in Watts. This part can be bought at the market or in a radio parts store, or it can also be pulled out of an old Soviet device.

• Textolite or plywood plate for making a comfortable handle.

  You can also use other non-conductive materials that can withstand high temperatures, such as some types of plastic.

• Two copper rods of different sections. The thicker one is selected strictly according to the internal diameter of the resistor. The quality of heat transfer from the heating element to the tip, and therefore the heating time and ease of operation, will depend on this.

  The second one should be thinner; it will act as a sting. Using a file, you will need to sharpen it to a shape that is convenient for you. The main types of stings are shown in the picture. I would immediately like to note that the most convenient option is the type of flat screwdriver, since it is convenient to transfer solder to the place of work, and it is possible to both solder massive contacts and perform delicate work.

• One bitten off spring ring (will serve as a retainer), a screw and a washer. You can see all the components in the photo below.

To make your own soldering iron from a resistor at home, you must complete the following steps:

1. You need to drill a hole in the end of a thick copper rod and drive the thread under the screw using a tap. It is also necessary to cut a groove for the retainer, which in our case is the spring ring. This can be done using a triangular file or a hacksaw for metal.

2. From the second end, drill a hole with a diameter similar to that of a thin rod, which will act as the tip of a mini soldering iron.
3. All elements of the rod must be assembled into one whole, as shown in the photo.
4. The resistor is prepared for attaching the soldering iron tip, which must be inserted and secured at the back with a screw and washer.

5. From a textolite or plywood plate you need to make a comfortable handle with your own hands with a seat for a resistor and wire. To do this, use a jigsaw to cut out two identical halves of the handle and make holes and recesses for screws and nuts.
6. A power cord must be connected to the heater terminals.

   It must be screwed to ensure reliable contact.

7. The finished homemade soldering iron is twisted and tested.

Please note that with such a portable gun you can easily solder microcircuits and even make a charger for a car battery with your own hands. It can work not only from a power supply, but also from a battery. We came across many reviews on the forums where this homemade version was connected from a 12-volt cigarette lighter, it’s also very convenient!

Please note that when first turned on, all soldering irons may smoke and stink for a while. This is normal for any model, as some elements of the paintwork fade. This will stop later.

Idea No. 2 – Second life for a ballpoint pen

There is another unusual, but at the same time simple idea on how to make a soldering iron with your own hands from scrap materials for soldering small parts or SMD components. In this case, we will again need a resistor, but now not a PEV (as in the previous version), but an MLT, with a power of 0.5 to 2 Watts.

So, first you must prepare the following materials:

• Ballpoint pen of the simplest design.
• Resistor with characteristics: resistance 10 Ohm, power 0.5 W.
• Double-sided textolite.
• Copper wire with a diameter of 1 mm, you can wind it from an old inductor or buy a single-core copper wire insulated at an electrical store and carefully remove it with a stationery knife
• Steel or copper wire with a diameter of no more than 0.8 mm.
• Wires for connecting to the network.

Making a soldering iron from a pen at home is quite simple, you just need to follow these steps:

1. Remove the paint layer from the surface of the resistor. This operation can be carried out using sandpaper, a needle file or a file, or, in extreme cases, a knife. The main thing is not to overdo it, so as not to damage the resistor. If the paint is difficult to remove, connect the product to a regulated power source and heat it up a little.
2. There are 2 wires coming out of the barrel, cut one of them and drill a hole in this place for the copper wire (diameter 1 mm). To prevent the wire from coming into contact with the cup (this must be avoided), make a countersink with a thicker drill, as shown in the photo below. In addition, you need to make a small cut for the wire directly on the resistor cup.

   A triangular file will help you with this again.

3. Bend the steel wire into the shape of a handle with a fastening in the form of a ring, with a diameter similar to that of a drink on a cup. If you have copper wire, then you need to clamp the cup in it and twist it using pliers so that the contact is reliable, but do not overdo it, otherwise you will wrinkle the body. Remember that the wire must be without varnish insulation.

4. Carefully cut out a board from a double-sided PCB with your own hands, exactly the same as shown in the example in the photo. It is not necessary to buy a new sheet of PCB. You can use a jigsaw to cut out a suitable piece from any unnecessary double-sided board. Or do without it altogether: twist the wire with wires and attach them to the handle using superglue.

   The main thing you need to pay attention to is that the distance between the heating element and the handle is more than 5 cm, otherwise the plastic may melt.

5. Next, you need to assemble a homemade soldering iron from a handle, which should not cause any difficulties.
6. All that remains is to install the thin tip into the seat.

   To prevent the copper wire from burning through the resistor, you need to make a protective layer of a piece of mica or ceramic between the back wall and the tip.

7. The last thing you need to do is connect the homemade product to a 1 A power supply and a voltage of no more than 15 Volts using wires.

Source: https://vi-pole.ru/moshhnyj-pajalnik-svoimi-rukami.html