How to make your own solder paste at home
Even at home, you can make very high-quality solder paste with your own hands. In this review, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the detailed technology for manufacturing solder paste.
The first step is to get a powder from a solder bar (the finer the better). For this, the author uses a disk cutter with a diameter of 40 mm; the thickness does not matter.
Before “crumbing” the solder, you need to make protection from a plastic bottle. We cut off the bottom part, make a hole in the bottom and put it on the drill.
A disk cutter allows you to immediately obtain a fairly fine powder and save time when working with a mortar. The cutter has a large tooth, and therefore does not become clogged with soft solder, as happens with medium and small files.
Useful tips
You need to be careful when working with a cutter. A cutter with a large tooth is more likely to strike (the cutter can be thrown to the side due to the sharp entry of the cutter teeth into the material). The smaller the angle, the less likely it is to hit.
By changing the angle between the solder rod and the plane of the disk cutter, you can adjust the productivity, as well as the size of the resulting powder.
Main stages of work
The author mixes the resulting powder with salt. Moreover, you need to use only coarse salt (fine salt will not work). After this, grind the powder with a pestle.
Next, the finished powder is poured with water - you need to rinse the sediment several times. Then the sediment must be squeezed out and dried on a radiator (about 10 minutes). the stuck together lumps are ground into a fine powder.
At the next stage, the powder must be divided into fractions. And for this, the author uses starch, from which liquid jelly must be made. Before adding the powder, it must be diluted with water, otherwise there will be lumps.
Starch can be replaced with gelatin; there are guaranteed to be no lumps, but you will have to wait a couple of hours until the jelly cools and sets.
The end result is a fine precipitate and a coarse precipitate. We pour them into different boxes. For paste, of course, it is better to use fine powder.
Cooking pasta
After this, you will need to mix the flux with fine powder in a ratio of 40/60 (by volume). For mixing, you can use a wooden stick or, for example, a wire.
Fill a regular syringe with the resulting paste. We put a piece of heat-shrinkable tubing on the spout, and insert a thin syringe into the other end. This is the only way to avoid air locks.
We put the needle on the nose of a thin syringe, and you can use the paste for its intended purpose. Very comfortably!
For details on how to make your own solder paste at home, we recommend watching the video on the website.
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Source: https://sdelairukami.ru/kak-samomu-sdelat-payalnuyu-pastu-v-domashnih-usloviyah/
How to make high-quality solder paste with your own hands
When soldering, it is very convenient to use solder paste. You can buy it or make it yourself. When heated, homemade paste flows better than factory paste. When soldering twists, it penetrates deeper, which ensures a reliable connection. Its use prevents overheating of parts, since when melted it changes color from dark to light, allowing you to react in time and remove the burner.
Materials and tools:
- a drill with a 40 mm cutting disc for wood or a file for metal;
- disposable cups 0.5 l;
- pestle and mortar;
- solder;
- soldering flux;
- coarse salt;
- starch;
- 5 cc syringe;
- insulin syringe;
- heat-shrink tubing.
Preparation of solder paste
The solder rod needs to be rubbed into a fine powder. To do this, you can use a metal file, which takes a long time, or use a drill with a wood disc.
Unlike a file, its teeth do not become clogged with solder. Since sawdust scatters when sawed with a drill, you will need to build a collection for it from a cut-off disposable glass. In this case, the solder itself must be in the bag to preserve all the powder.
It is important to feed the rod onto the edge of the cutting disc at an acute angle, then it will be rubbed into finer dust. Be sure to keep your hands away from the disc.
The resulting sawdust is poured into a mortar. Coarse salt is added to them and everything is rubbed with force with a pestle. As you grind, you need to add new salt, since the crystals of the old one are destroyed.
Grinded sawdust is diluted in water. The salt dissolves, resulting in the remaining residue being crushed solder. To completely desalt it, you will need to rinse it a couple of times. After sediment has settled, the water is drained.
Starch is diluted in a small amount of cold water. After stirring it to weigh all the particles, the solution is poured into boiling water.
A little water is added to the wet sediment of solder filings. The mixture is stirred until the particles are weighed and poured into hot jelly. After very thorough stirring, the glass with the combined solutions is left alone until a precipitate forms.
In a thick jelly mass, only heavy solder settles to the bottom. Its lighter fine particles float to the top. The jelly is poured into another container so as not to disturb the sediment. The paste is made only from small floating particles.
To extract them, you will need to add more water to the jelly to reduce the concentration of starch, thereby reducing the thickness. This will allow the suspension to sink a little. Afterwards, the top layer of the solution without solder powder must be drained.
The procedure is repeated until the starch concentration becomes negligible and the precipitate begins to fall out quickly.
After rinsing the starch, the sediment of small particles of solder must be squeezed out by folding it into a napkin. After rough dehydration, the mass is dried in a paper tray. This battery will take 10 minutes. The dried sediment has stuck together lumps. You can rub them with your finger through a napkin.
Soldering flux is added to dried fine sawdust. The flux/powder ratio is approximately 40/60 by volume. The ingredients are mixed into a paste.
The paste is placed in a 5 mm medical syringe with an elongated piston. Its spout must be connected to the insulin syringe using heat-shrink tubing.
Press the plunger of the large syringe to squeeze the paste into the insulin syringe. With this method, it will flow without forming air pockets.
Subsequently, the resulting paste can be squeezed out through a thin needle of a medical syringe, or a thicker one from flux. This will allow you to adjust the feed depending on the size of the parts being soldered. The advantage of this paste is its ability to penetrate deeply into small capillaries. Of course, it is not so easy to make, but the process is interesting, and soldering with it is a pleasure.
Soldering the LED.
Solder pastes: advantages, types, features of use
Solder pastes are specific substances with a pasty consistency that are used to secure parts on a printed circuit board. They have certain advantages, disadvantages and application features.
Advantages and varieties of the presented material
Let's look at the advantages that solder pastes have:
— the possibility of using them for the manufacture of circuit boards with very small parts;
— they do not require a soldering iron, but to work with this material you will need a special hair dryer or station, thanks to which the product warms up;
— this substance can be used in cases where it is not possible to work with conventional tools.
Solder pastes come in different types. First of all, they are classified according to the method of removing excess substances after work: washing and non-cleaning. The second option is safer, as it does not lead to corrosion of the board. The first type of paste can be washed off with water, so they contain components that can harm the radio device.
It should also be noted that the substance can be made with or without lead. The second type of paste is environmentally friendly.
In order for the job to be done efficiently and accurately, you need to purchase the “correct” solder pastes. First of all, you should pay attention to the technical characteristics of the substance: humidity and air temperature, storage features.
The presented material may lose its qualities depending on aging. The choice depends on the type of paste and its scope. Naturally, the cost of the material is an important factor. Solder paste, the price of which is about $10 per 50 grams and above, is purchased only at certified points of sale.
As for storing the material, it must be placed in a refrigerator, the temperature in which does not rise above 4 degrees. When using it, the room should be warm, but not hot (no more than 25 0C). Humidity should not reach 80%. Before using the substance, it is necessary to warm it to room temperature and only then open the jar. Sometimes this can take up to 6 hours.
Features of the use of the material
Soldering with solder paste has its own nuances. For example, the surface on which the substance will be applied must be absolutely clean, dry and grease-free. During the work, the board should be fixed as firmly as possible in a horizontal position.
The area that will be soldered must be completely covered with the substance. After this, try to very accurately place all the necessary parts on the board. Now you can start warming up the product using a hairdryer. The jet should not be too strong. Its temperature should be about 150 degrees until all the flux has evaporated from the paste. After this, the stream can be made hotter (200-250 0C).
After completing all the work, the board will need to be cooled and cleaned of any remaining substances. This procedure depends on the type of paste.
Source: https://FB.ru/article/129944/payalnyie-pastyi-preimuschestva-raznovidnosti-osobennosti-ispolzovaniya
Why do you need solder paste?
Any type of electronic equipment is a collection of printed circuit boards and circuits, without which the functioning of electronics is impossible. The strength and reliability of solder joints on these surfaces depend not only on the professionalism of the worker, the serviceability of the machine, but also on the soldering substance used, compliance with the rules of its operation and storage conditions.
General information
Solder paste is a pasty mass that consists of many small particles of spherical solder, flux and various additives. Why is it needed and what to do with it?
Solder pastes are used for surface mounting of electronic components by soldering on printed circuit boards, hybrid integrated circuits, and ceramic substrates. After application to the surface, the composition remains active for several hours. Scope of application: industry.
What should it be
Solder paste must meet certain requirements:
- do not oxidize;
- do not quickly disintegrate into layers;
- maintain viscosity and stickiness properties;
- leave only removable waste after soldering;
- do not splash when exposed to a high concentration heating source;
- do not have a negative impact on the board from a technical point of view;
- susceptible to traditional solvents.
Characteristics
Shape and dimensions of solder particles
The characteristics of the solder particles determine how solder paste will be applied to the surface. Compositions with small particles are much less prone to oxidation. In addition, if the soldering substance has large particles of irregular shape, this threatens to clog the stencil, and therefore the application procedure will fail.
Specific gravity of metal in the composition
This indicator determines the thickness of the melted solder; the degree of precipitation and spreading of the soldering substance depends on it.
The thickness of the connection after reflow is directly dependent on the specific gravity of the metal in the paste: the higher its percentage, the greater the thickness of the connection after the solder paste has been reflowed.
The choice of application method also depends on the metal concentration. So, if the solder paste contains it in a volume of 80%, it should be applied using a stencil method, if it contains 90%, it should be applied by dosing.
Type of flux in the paste
Affects the level of activity of the substance and the need for washing. Depending on the method of removing flux residues, three groups of fluxes are distinguished:
- Rosin. The main component is purified natural resin, which is extracted from pine wood. Rosin fluxes are divided into non-activated, moderately activated and activated slightly corrosive. The former are characterized by minimal activity indicators, the latter are quite easy to clean, provide good wetting and spreadability of the solder, and the third are characterized by the highest activity indicators and a low level of demand.
- Water-washable. Contains organic acids. The use of water-washable active flux guarantees a good soldering result, but there is a need for washing with deionized water at a temperature of 55-65 degrees.
- No laundering. Does not require washing. Manufactured from natural and synthetic resins. The specific gravity of the resin in the composition of such fluxes is 35-45%. They exhibit moderate activity, their solder residues are non-corrosive and non-conductive, and the concentration of solid residues can reach a maximum of 2%.
Properties
This is nothing more than the thickness of the solder paste substance. The paste is endowed with the ability to change the degree of its viscosity when exposed to mechanical loads. It can be determined using special instruments: Brookfield and Malcolm viscometers. As a rule, this indicator is indicated by the marking method.
Solder pastes have the ability to expand in size after the imprint is applied to the surface. The considered indicator should be at a low level, since a significant increase in the size of the solder paste print causes the formation of jumpers.
Properties saving time
This is reflected in indicators such as the longest residence time of the substance on the stencil before or after application, which does not entail degradation of properties. In most cases, the value of the first parameter is within 8-48 hours, the second - 72 hours. These indicators are recorded by the manufacturer on the packaging. Moreover, either one parameter (either of the two) or both can be specified.
Identifies the ability of solder paste to hold SMD components in place after installing them on the surface and before the soldering procedure. The degree of stickiness indicates the “viability” of the paste and determines its shelf life. It is calculated by implementing a special test, which uses a traditional tester capable of measuring the force required to move an element of certain weight parameters from an area of a paste-like substance of certain sizes.
The presence of adhesiveness and its level depend on the type of solder paste. On average, the retention time is in the range of 4-8 hours, while the maximum value, which is typical for a number of pastes, can reach 24 hours or more.
Source: https://MyTooling.ru/instrumenty/zachem-nuzhna-pajalnaja-pasta
DIY solder paste for SMD. How to make solder paste at home. Solder paste: how to use
Hello everyone. I already had a review of what I purchased. In the same review, we’ll look at a homemade solder paste or flux crusher. There’s a link in the header to one of the components. First, why is it needed? This crusher is useful, in my opinion and experience of use, for those who are engaged in the manufacture of piece printed circuit boards at home using SMD.
It’s convenient to apply a few dozen drops of solder paste to the pads or polygons and then put the board in the oven, use a hairdryer or soldering iron. And if you make a couple of these crushers yourself, you can easily apply flux, for example, everyone’s favorite RMA-223. :0) I think it’s a bit bold to use a pneumatic dispenser for these purposes. It is very convenient to use a crusher in repairing boards with SMDs.
I blew out a burnt-out transistor or microcircuit, removed excess solder, added a drop of paste, installed a new part, poked it with a soldering iron or ran it with a hairdryer and you’re done, soldering is almost like it came from the factory. Convenient and beautiful. I decided to assemble a crusher using a 28BYJ-48 stepper motor. Why? Because it is the most common and cheapest engine on eBay and Ali.
Due to the fact that there are simply no other stepper motors at a normal price, suitable sizes and a 5-volt power supply (either I didn’t find it, or I was too lazy to look for it). There were other reasons. Those who are interested can look under the spoiler at the end of the review. So, what did I get? Height
Weight Size in the chest:) We eat (Do not look at the inscription, the face has not been altered)
Control
Button control, forward backward. The middle button was conceived as an “automatic”, but it seems that it will remain an idea, since it has not yet been possible to get rid of air in the solder paste. There are regulators for “Speed” and “Recoil Time” (how long the engine will spin back when releasing the “Forward” button to relieve pressure). The third regulator is not yet activated. The stroke of the rod is 6 centimeters. In order to install the syringe, it needs to be cut as in the picture. But there are no screeds.
The syringe is inserted into a clamp for mounting plastic pipes, diameter 16 mm. The process itself is in the photo, insert the syringe and turn it over. Holds up great. A few, just photos Test of applying solder paste. On the same defective scarf. Unfortunately, the pressure force, like that of the author of the product in the previous review, could not be measured. They don’t want to measure the scales and that’s it. Conclusions: Cons. -It is not possible to get rid of the “worm” that is pulled forward when the button is released.
But this is more likely due to the air in the paste than to the crush. -Dimensions have increased. Pros. -The press works, presses the paste directly from the refrigerator, presses the flux. What else do you need - Dimensions have increased. Since my hand is not small, the previous press was quite inconvenient to operate due to its small size. This one suited my hand exactly. -The price is cheap, especially in comparison with the purchased crusher from the previous review.
-It works the same way, it presses. Well, if the result is the same, why pay more!?
The manufacturing process for those who are interested in this topic.
The process of making a crusher from screws and sticks
At the request of his comrades who supported him. The dispenser, in principle, is not bad and suits almost everyone except for the price, the shock-absorbing rubber piston, the lack of a syringe stop when reversing the engine, the “crookedly” positioned joystick, the inability to adjust the time/reverse angle, etc. etc., as well as the opportunity to lend a hand. The idea of self-burning appeared in parallel with the purchase of the finished product.
There was an idea that not everything is so smooth in the Danish kingdom and the jambs that do not allow you to sleep peacefully will be in the purchased device. Adding confidence in the positive outcome of the idea, a link flashed somewhere in the comments, to an English language one with a beautiful picture. Surfing the forum led to a download link from files for making such a thing.
In the archive there is a diagram, board, firmware, files for making a frame for the product on a 3D printer, etc. I looked at it and figured out. The diagram doesn’t suit me. I would like to be able to adjust the engine reverse time in order to get rid of the vile “worm” as much as possible, or at least try, maybe it will work out. I would also like to get an automatic mode. Those.
When you press a button, the engine takes, for example, three steps forward, one step back, and we get a dosed drop of paste. Accordingly, the scheme is for modernization. The presence of variables/adjusters in the circuit, rather than buttons, is due to my love for analog adjustment and the possibility of more flexible adjustment of modes without constant firmware changes and constant re-flashing of the MK, which is convenient when setting up the first copy.
According to my idea, it is much easier to adjust the modes using adjustment tools, and, if necessary, change the firmware and tweak the buttons in the final version of the device. The lack of a 3D printer led to the idea of making a supporting frame from PCB, also known as a printed circuit board, based on the approximate model from the previous review. And the lack of a router suggested that it would have to be done using improvised means from improvised means.
We will make a crusher using a Chinese “Dremel”, a screwdriver, files + needle files, a hacksaw for metal, a soldering iron and other simple tools that most DIY enthusiasts will have
Let's get started
On Ali, I ordered the cheapest stepper for a buck and a few kopecks, it also flashed in the photo from the Angloforum (the original idea was to press the gumboil, paste if possible), I have to pull it. — $1.22 per piece. A microcircuit consisting of a set of powerful transistor switches on which the stepper control controller is based. - 0.32 bucks per pair.
Microcontroller. - for 1.32 bucks. Bushing for transition from engine to pusher. - 1.39 bucks. The screws have been ordered, let's move on to the “sticks”.
In the bins were dug up: a piece of aluminum tube, an M3 hairpin (bought in Leroy, 21 rupees per meter), a piece of fiberglass, a scrap of radiator, photoresist, a mask and other necessary things While the orders are on the way, we alter a little, to suit our needs, the circuit. a signet (it reminds me of something:0)) We’re not making the board yet, we’re waiting for the engine and little noises to estimate the real dimensions of the board in kind so as not to fly by.
— I once ordered a WH1602 indicator for an ampere-voltmeter. I sawed a window for it according to the datasheet. The indicator that arrived was 2 mm. already:0(.
While we are giving the cutting of the radiator the desired shape, it will later be installed in its place. From scraps of double-sided fiberglass soldered in an oven (2x1.5 mm, unfortunately we couldn’t find any thicker), using a Chinese “Dremel” we make pistons for the paste pusher, with and without a seal. With seal, for simple syringes with screw-on needle (Luer-Lok).
For those who have switched from smoking to vaping, I think there are a lot of different sizes of round rubber bands available for sealing. For those who are far from vaping, a hint: there are too many rubber bands like this, choose the right size. Without seal, for ready-made syringes filled with paste or flux with a piston. Pistons are made simply.
We drill a hole in the center of a piece of PCB of the required size, insert a screw, tighten it with a nut on the back side, insert the structure into a Dremel or drill, or Shura. Turn it on and cut out the round piece with a cutter. Using a file, we adjust it to the size we need, make/don’t make a groove. Solder the nut. On one piston (in the photo) you can see additional. hole, soldered second nut and small screw. It's like a valve.
If you insert the piston into a syringe filled with paste or flux yourself, the air will have nowhere to escape and it will try to squeeze the paste/flux through the hole for the needle. To get rid of unnecessary air, unscrew the screw, release the air, pressing the piston all the way until the paste/flux comes out of the hole and tighten the screw. I couldn’t come up with a simpler solution using the means at hand.
Without wasting time, we make a pusher for the piston. We take an aluminum tube, a piece of a pin, a brass stand (I think brass will have less friction on iron), electrical tape and epoxy. We screw the stand onto a pin and go over it with a brute file so that it holds better in the epoxy. We wrap electrical tape around the pin to center the stand inside the tube and to prevent the glue from leaking inside the tube and ruining everything for us.
We insert the whole thing tightly into the tube and fill the pin with epoxy. When the glue hardens, we cut off the threaded tail and voila we have a tube with a centered brass nut, inside which a pusher pin with a piston will run and squeeze the paste out of the syringe. Meanwhile, the long-awaited stepper motor arrived. You can begin fitting and manufacturing the printed circuit board.
In the photo, the engine is already screwed to the scarf and its leads are shortened, so I apologize for some inconsistency and not very detailed description in the photos.
Sometimes I forgot to take photos. The circuit diagram and layout of the board are already ready, all that remains is to approve the dimensions and go
We prepare fiberglass laminate, apply photoresist, develop it, etch it.
Source: https://thesteak.ru/kashi/payalnaya-pasta-dlya-smd-svoimi-rukami-kak-izgotovit-payalnuyu/
