What can you do with a soldering iron?

How to solder correctly with a soldering iron and rosin

Knowledge of how to solder correctly is needed not only by radio amateurs and electrical installation specialists. Every home handyman has to deal with the need for soldering when repairing electrical appliances.

Preparing the soldering iron for use

Before soldering with a soldering iron, you should properly prepare it for work. In everyday life, an electric soldering iron with a copper tip is most often used, which, during storage and use, gradually becomes covered with a layer of oxide and is subject to mechanical damage. To obtain a solder joint of good quality, the soldering iron is prepared for use in the following sequence:

1. Using a finely cut file, clean the working part of the tip to a length of 1 cm from the edge. After cleaning, the tool should acquire a reddish color, characteristic of copper, and a metallic luster. During stripping, the tip is given a wedge-shaped, beveled, cone-shaped shape in order to solder what the master needs.
2. Plug in the soldering iron and heat it to operating temperature.
3. The tip must be tinned and covered with a thin layer of tin - the same solder used to solder the connected conductors. To do this, the tip of the tool is immersed in rosin, and then a piece of solder is passed along it. You should not use a solder rod with rosin inside for tinning a soldering iron. To distribute the solder evenly, rub the working edges against a metal surface.

During operation, the half-plate will burn and wear off, so the soldering iron will have to be cleaned and tinned several times during the soldering process. You can clean the tip with a piece of sandpaper.

If the master uses a tool with a nickel-plated, non-burnable rod, it will have to be cleaned with a special sponge or damp cloth. They tin such a sting in molten rosin, running a piece of solder over it.

Soldering can only be learned on the job, but before that it is advisable to become familiar with the basic operations.

Fluxing or tinning

The traditional and most affordable flux is rosin. If desired, you can solder with a solid substance or its alcohol solution (SKF, Rosin-gel, etc.), as well as TAGS flux.

The legs of radio components or chips are covered with half-milk at the factory. But to get rid of oxides, you can tin them again before installation, lubricating them with liquid flux and covering them with an even layer of molten solder.

Before processing with flux or tinning, copper wire is cleaned with fine emery cloth. This removes the oxide layer or enamel insulation. Liquid flux is applied with a brush, and then the soldering area is heated with a soldering iron and covered with a thin layer of tin. Tinning in solid rosin is done as follows:

• melt a piece of the substance on a stand and heat the conductor in it;
• feed the solder rod and distribute the molten metal evenly over the wire.

Correctly soldering massive copper, bronze or steel parts should be done using active fluxes that contain acids (F-34A, Glycerin-hydrazine, etc.). They will help create an even layer of poluda and firmly connect parts of large objects. Tin is applied to large surfaces with a soldering iron, spreading solder evenly over them. After working with active flux, acid residues should be neutralized with an alkaline solution (for example, soda).

Preheating and temperature selection

It is difficult for beginners to determine at what temperature the tool can start working. The degree of heating should be selected depending on the type of material:

• soldering microcircuits requires heating no higher than +250°C, otherwise the parts may be damaged;
• large individual radio components can withstand heating up to +300°C;
• Tinning and joining of copper wire can occur at +400°C or slightly lower;
• massive parts can be heated at the maximum power of the soldering iron (about +400°C).

Many models of instruments have a thermostat, and it is easy to determine the degree of heating. But in the absence of a sensor, it is worth keeping in mind that a household soldering iron can be heated to a maximum of +350 +400°C. You can start working with the tool if the rosin and solder melt within 1-2 seconds. Most POS grade solders have a melting point of about +250°C.

Even an experienced craftsman will not be able to solder correctly with a soldering iron that is not heated enough. With low heat, the solder structure becomes spongy or granular after solidification. Soldering does not have sufficient strength and does not ensure good contact between the parts, and such work is considered a defect.

Working with solder

When heated sufficiently, the molten solder should become flowable. For small jobs, you can take a drop of alloy on the tip of the tool and transfer it to the parts to be joined. But it is more convenient to use thin wire (rod) of different sections. Often inside the wire there is a layer of rosin, which helps to solder correctly with a soldering iron without distraction from the process.

With this method, a hot tool heats the surface of the connected conductors or parts. The end of the solder rod is brought to the tip and pushed a little (1-3 mm) under it. The metal instantly melts, after which the remainder of the rod is removed, and the solder is heated with a soldering iron until it acquires a bright shine.

When working with radio components, you need to take into account that heating is dangerous for them. All operations are performed within 1-2 seconds.

When soldering connections of single-core wires of large cross-section, you can use a thick rod. When the tool is heated sufficiently, it also melts quickly, but you can distribute it over the surfaces to be soldered more slowly, trying to fill all the grooves of the twist.

Source: https://odinelectric.ru/knowledgebase/kak-pravilno-payat-payalnikom

DIY soldering iron - a practical guide to creating a soldering iron and soldering station at home

A soldering iron is a universal and useful tool that will be useful to any owner. To use it, no special, specific skills are required, and if you wish, you can make a soldering iron from available materials. Below we will present the three most current instructions on how to properly make a soldering iron with your own hands at home.

Option No. 1 – Use a resistor

Who said resistance is useless? In our case, it is with the help of it that we will create a device that will operate with voltage from 6 to 24 V.

To make it we will need:

• Resistor with parameters: R=20 Ohm, P= 7 W;
• A plate made of textolite (with its help we create a holder);
• 2 pieces of copper wire, with different sections. A thin rod will be useful if you need to use a smaller tip; a thicker one, in turn, should correspond to the internal diameter of the resistor.
• 1 separate spring ring (as a fastening element), screw and washer.

Photos of a do-it-yourself soldering iron, as well as all individual elements, are presented below.

The procedure is as follows:

We make a hole in the side of the rod and create a thread for the screw. In addition, you will need to cut a separate recess for the fixing part (the spring ring mentioned above).

On the other side (also the end side) we create a hole along the diameter of the smaller rod. The latter will be used as a sting.

According to the example (in the photo), we put the parts together into a common mechanism. We insert the tip, complete the fasteners, attach the washer and screw.

We form a handle from textolite fabric, on which we leave a mini-compartment for a wire and a resistive element. To the place where there is access to the heater, we connect the cord to plug into the outlet.

Additionally, we tighten the nodes and check the device for functionality. If everything was done correctly and the soldering iron works successfully, it can be used for soldering standard radioelements, as well as simple microcircuits. The miniature product will be simple and easy to use.

Option number 2 – A new look at the ballpoint pen

On the one hand, it is original, and on the other hand, it is a completely simple variation of a homemade device. We again take a source of resistance, only this time we will need not a PEV resistor (as for the first type of product), but an MLT. Recommended parameters: R=10 Ohm, P=0.5 W.

In addition to this, you need to prepare:

• ballpoint pen (the most ordinary one will do);
• textolite plate (2-sided);
• copper wire (1 mm in diameter);
• steel wire (maximum diameter - 0.8 mm). The material must have optimal softness - not deform itself
• on its own, but at the same time so that with the help of effort it can be given the desired shape;
• wiring for supplying electricity.

Manufacturing process step by step:

We remove the paint coating from the outside of the resistor.
If the coating does not want to come off, slightly heat the resistor. We cut off the wire on one side of the cylindrical part of the resistor and instead make a hole for our copper rod.

Important! The wire should not be in contact with the cup; to do this, drill a hole with a larger diameter drill. Additionally, we create a delicate cut for the flow of current, on the very cup of the resistive element.

We bend the steel wire so that it takes the shape of a handle. We create a fastening area with a ring with a diameter similar to what we cut out on the cup. We cut out a board from a textolite plate (an example of the appearance is shown in the picture).

We assemble the structure. Place a thin tip on the prepared area. Using a special material (ceramic) between the tip and the back of the resistor, we form a protective layer. This is a necessary measure to avoid the risk of burning the part.

We connect our device to the power system. Acceptable parameters: I=1 A, U=15 V.

Again, the method is quite accessible to the average amateur. The “ingredients” can be obtained from old equipment. At the same time, these types and configurations of homemade soldering irons can easily desolder surface-mounted parts from standard printed circuit boards.

Option No. 3 – Set the impulse

This method is for more advanced masters. Here you will need intermediate level blueprint reading skills. Let's look at the circuit and structure of soldering irons of this type using an example.

The main advantage of this device is its higher power, thanks to which the tip will heat up much faster, literally within a few seconds after power is applied. A rod that has reached the optimal temperature will be able to melt the tin layer without any problems.

There is an option to create such a soldering iron from a power supply with a pulse, using a device built into a fluorescent lamp. It will be necessary to improve the scheme slightly.

So, the list of materials in our case will be as follows:

Ring from a pulse converter (material – ferrite). Important: the primary set of turns on a transformer device should number 100 units, ideally no more than 120. Diameter - 0.5 mm. The additional winding is in the form of a single turn of a copper busbar, with a maximum permissible diameter of 3.5 mm.

Copper wire (diameter: 1.5-2 mm). Used to create a rod.

How to make a soldering iron with your own hands from all this? Yes, very simple! It will take literally a couple of steps - to connect the rod and the secondary winding, which, in principle, is originally part of it. Next, an arbitrary lead of the sinker will need to be connected to the network winding. And that’s it, the device is ready!

The three options described above are most often used by hobbyists to create homemade soldering tools. Additionally, we recommend watching a video on how to make a power and temperature regulator for a soldering iron with your own hands, a stand for fixing the device, etc. peripherals.

If you choose which of the three methods is preferable, we note that the first two are the easiest to implement. Not everyone can create a pulse device, and in terms of operation it requires some skills. But at the same time it allows you to implement more serious tasks. Therefore, the choice is yours!

Photos of DIY soldering irons

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Source: https://tehnikaportal.ru/payalnik-svoimi-rukami/

What can you do with a soldering iron? — Metals, equipment, instructions

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Sometimes there are situations when the owner simply cannot do without a simple soldering iron. For example, you need to tin a multi-core cable for an outlet, or remove a part from a burnt-out device. At such moments, you have to either borrow a tool or postpone the matter indefinitely. After all, not everyone wants to buy an expensive soldering iron or soldering station if he is not a repairman.

However, there is a simple way out of this situation - to assemble a small soldering iron yourself; it is just right for small work. The manufacturing process will not take much time and effort, but you will be able to save some money and gain invaluable experience. Next, we will tell you how to make a soldering iron with your own hands at home.

You will be offered several designs, and you can choose the one that suits you best.

Idea No. 1 – Use a resistor

The first and simplest technology for making an electric soldering iron with your own hands is using a powerful resistor. The device will be designed to operate at voltages from 6 to 24 Volts, which will allow it to be powered from various current sources, and even make a portable version powered by a car battery. In order to make your own instrument, you will need the following materials:

• Soviet wirewound resistor (WWW), covered with ceramic insulation with a resistance of 20 Ohms and a power of 7 Watts. You can choose components with other characteristics, depending on what power you want to make the soldering iron and what voltage you plan to power it from. Here is the simplest formula for calculation: R = U²/P. Where R is resistance measured in Ohms; U is the voltage that is planned to power the soldering iron, in Volts; P is the desired heater power in Watts. This part can be bought at the market or in a radio parts store, or it can also be pulled out of an old Soviet device.
• Textolite or plywood plate for making a comfortable handle. You can also use other non-conductive materials that can withstand high temperatures, such as some types of plastic.
• Two copper rods of different sections. The thicker one is selected strictly according to the internal diameter of the resistor. The quality of heat transfer from the heating element to the tip, and therefore the heating time and ease of operation, will depend on this. The second one should be thinner; it will act as a sting. Using a file, you will need to sharpen it to a shape that is convenient for you. The main types of stings are shown in the picture. I would immediately like to note that the most convenient option is the type of flat screwdriver, since it is convenient to transfer solder to the place of work, and it is possible to both solder massive contacts and perform delicate work.
• One bitten off spring ring (will serve as a retainer), a screw and a washer. You can see all the components in the photo below.

To make your own soldering iron from a resistor at home, you must complete the following steps:

1. You need to drill a hole in the end of a thick copper rod and drive the thread under the screw using a tap. It is also necessary to cut a groove for the retainer, which in our case is the spring ring. This can be done using a triangular file or a hacksaw for metal.
2. From the second end, drill a hole with a diameter similar to that of a thin rod, which will act as the tip of a mini soldering iron.
3. All elements of the rod must be assembled into one whole, as shown in the photo.
4. The resistor is prepared for attaching the soldering iron tip, which must be inserted and secured at the back with a screw and washer.
5. From a textolite or plywood plate you need to make a comfortable handle with your own hands with a seat for a resistor and wire. To do this, use a jigsaw to cut out two identical halves of the handle and make holes and recesses for screws and nuts.
6. A power cord must be connected to the heater terminals. It must be screwed to ensure reliable contact.
7. The finished homemade soldering iron is twisted and tested.

Please note that with such a portable gun you can easily solder microcircuits and even make a charger for a car battery with your own hands. It can work not only from a power supply, but also from a battery. We came across many reviews on the forums where this homemade version was connected from a 12-volt cigarette lighter, it’s also very convenient!

Please note that when first turned on, all soldering irons may smoke and stink for a while. This is normal for any model, as some elements of the paintwork fade. This will stop later.

instructions for making a simple electrical appliance

Idea No. 2 – Second life for a ballpoint pen

There is another unusual, but at the same time simple idea on how to make a soldering iron with your own hands from scrap materials for soldering small parts or SMD components. In this case, we will again need a resistor, but now not a PEV (as in the previous version), but an MLT, with a power of 0.5 to 2 Watts.

So, first you must prepare the following materials:

• Ballpoint pen of the simplest design.
• Resistor with characteristics: resistance 10 Ohm, power 0.5 W.
• Double-sided textolite.
• Copper wire with a diameter of 1 mm, you can wind it from an old inductor or buy a single-core copper wire insulated at an electrical store and carefully remove it with a stationery knife
• Steel or copper wire with a diameter of no more than 0.8 mm.
• Wires for connecting to the network.

Making a soldering iron from a pen at home is quite simple, you just need to follow these steps:

1. Remove the paint layer from the surface of the resistor. This operation can be carried out using sandpaper, a needle file or a file, or, in extreme cases, a knife. The main thing is not to overdo it, so as not to damage the resistor. If the paint is difficult to remove, connect the product to a regulated power source and heat it up a little.
2. There are 2 wires coming out of the barrel, cut one of them and drill a hole in this place for the copper wire (diameter 1 mm). To prevent the wire from coming into contact with the cup (this must be avoided), make a countersink with a thicker drill, as shown in the photo below. In addition, you need to make a small cut for the wire directly on the resistor cup. A triangular file will help you with this again.
3. Bend the steel wire into the shape of a handle with a fastening in the form of a ring, with a diameter similar to that of a drink on a cup. If you have copper wire, then you need to clamp the cup in it and twist it using pliers so that the contact is reliable, but do not overdo it, otherwise you will wrinkle the body. Remember that the wire must be without varnish insulation.
4. Carefully cut out a board from a double-sided PCB with your own hands, exactly the same as shown in the example in the photo. It is not necessary to buy a new sheet of PCB. You can use a jigsaw to cut out a suitable piece from any unnecessary double-sided board. Or do without it altogether: twist the wire with wires and attach them to the handle using superglue. The main thing you need to pay attention to is that the distance between the heating element and the handle is more than 5 cm, otherwise the plastic may melt.
5. Next, you need to assemble a homemade soldering iron from a handle, which should not cause any difficulties.
6. All that remains is to install the thin tip into the seat. To prevent the copper wire from burning through the resistor, you need to make a protective layer of a piece of mica or ceramic between the back wall and the tip.
7. The last thing you need to do is connect the homemade product to a 1 A power supply and a voltage of no more than 15 Volts using wires.

That's the whole technology for creating a homemade mini soldering iron at home. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in making this tool, and you can easily handle it, and all the materials can be found at home by disassembling old equipment or looking for them in bins.

How to make a more complex model of a mini soldering iron at home? Review of a device with nichrome wire operating on 12 Volts

Idea #3 – Powerful impulse model

This option is suitable for those who are already more or less familiar with radio engineering and know how to read the corresponding diagrams. A master class on making a homemade pulse soldering iron will be provided following the example of this diagram:

The advantage of this tool is that the tip heats up within 5 seconds after turning on the power, and the heated rod can easily melt tin. At the same time, you can make it from a switching power supply from a fluorescent lamp, slightly improving the board at home.

  Why is the pump in the heating system noisy?

As in previous examples, we will first consider the materials from which you can make a soldering iron with your own hands at home. Before assembly, you must prepare the following available tools:

• Ferrite ring from a pulse converter. The primary winding of the transformer should consist of 100, maximum 120 turns of copper wire with a diameter of 0.5 mm. The secondary winding is represented by one turn of a copper busbar, with a diameter of no more than 3.5 mm.
• Copper wire, with a diameter of 1.5 to 2 mm, as a tip.

All you need is to connect the tip to the secondary winding, which, in fact, is already part of it. After this, one of the ballast terminals must be connected to the primary winding of the transformer and all elements of the circuit must be secured in a reliable housing, which will protect you from accidental electric shock, since the circuit contains a life-threatening voltage of 220 volts!

The principle of operation of this design is that the ballast from the lamp creates an alternating voltage, which is applied to the primary winding of the transformer and is reduced to low values, while the current increases many times.

One turn, which is essentially the tip of the soldering iron, acts as a resistor through which heat is dissipated.

When you press the button, current is supplied to the circuit, and rapid heating occurs; after the button is released, the tip quickly cools, which is very convenient, since you do not need to wait long for the instrument to heat up and cool down.

Idea No. 4 – Simple wire version

There is another option for making a miniature soldering iron - using nichrome wire. To do this you will need:

1. A piece of nichrome wire. You can remove it from old heating elements, wire resistors, irons, hair dryers, etc. The main characteristic of such wire is its diameter, because it determines the resistance of the coil and, accordingly, the power of the tool being manufactured. You can calculate the required length for your diameter using the formula specified in the instructions for option No. 1. The resistivity of nichrome depending on the diameter is given in the table below.
2. A piece of wood with a round cross-section.
3. A piece of copper wire with a diameter of 1.5-5 mm, a length of 15 cm.
4. A small piece of fiberglass insulation for wires.
5. A little plaster. Sold in construction stores, another name is alabaster. Many people have little left over after renovation.
6. Wires.

Manufacturing process:

1. Drill a hole in the block for copper wire 3 times larger than its diameter.
2. Place a piece of copper wire in it so that it protrudes about 5 cm and secure it there with thick plaster putty, let it dry.
3. Place insulation on the copper rod, which is the tip, and wind the required amount of nichrome wire, leaving a distance between the turns. Also put insulation on the ends and bring them closer to the handle. Then connect the twists with the wires. Tape them to the handle with electrical tape.

That's all, you have another simple and reliable soldering iron design, made by yourself.

We still recommend using either the first or second option, which is more understandable and easier to manufacture. As for the transformer version, although it is more powerful, it is still not so convenient to use. We hope that these photo instructions were useful for you and finally, we recommend that you watch all the video examples in which the assembly process is discussed in more detail!

Also read:

instructions for making a simple electrical appliance How to make a more complex model of a mini soldering iron at home? Review of a device with nichrome wire operating on 12 Volts

Source: https://spb-metalloobrabotka.com/chto-mozhno-sdelat-s-pomoschyu-payalnika/

Soldering wires with a soldering iron: how to do it right

One of the most reliable methods of connecting wires is soldering. This is a process in which the space between two conductors is filled with molten solder. In this case, the melting temperature of the solder must be lower than the melting temperature of the metals being joined. At home, soldering is most often used with a soldering iron - a small device powered by electricity. For normal operation, the power of the soldering iron must be at least 80-100 W.  

What you need for soldering with a soldering iron

In addition to the soldering iron itself, you will need solders, rosin or fluxes; it is advisable to have a stand. While working, you may need a small file and small pliers.

Most often you have to solder copper wires, for example, on headphones, when repairing household appliances, etc.

Rosin and fluxes

To get a good connection between the wires, it is necessary to clean them of contaminants, including oxide film. While mono-cores can still be cleaned manually, multi-core conductors cannot be cleaned properly. They are usually treated with rosin or flux - active substances that dissolve contaminants, including oxide film.

Both rosin and fluxes work well, but fluxes are easier to use - you can dip a brush into the solution and quickly process the wires. You need to put a conductor in rosin, then heat it with a soldering iron so that the molten substance envelops the entire surface of the metal. The disadvantage of using fluxes is that if they remain on the wires (and they do), they gradually corrode the adjacent sheath. To prevent this from happening, all soldering areas must be treated - the remaining flux must be washed off with alcohol.

Solders and fluxes for soldering copper wires with a soldering iron

Rosin is considered a universal remedy, and fluxes can be selected depending on the metal you are going to solder. In the case of wires, this is copper or aluminum. For copper and aluminum wires, use LTI-120 flux or borax.

A homemade flux made from rosin and denatured alcohol (1 to 5) works very well, and it’s also easy to make with your own hands. Add rosin to the alcohol (preferably dust or very small pieces of it) and shake until dissolved.

Then this composition can be used to treat conductors and strands before soldering.

Solders for soldering copper wires with a soldering iron use POS 60, POS 50 or POS 40 - tin-lead. For aluminum, zinc-based compounds are more suitable. The most common are TsO-12 and P250A (made of tin and zinc), grade A (zinc and tin with the addition of copper), TsA-15 (zinc with aluminum).

Convenient to use solder with rosin

It is very convenient to use solders that contain rosin (POS 61). In this case, there is no need to pre-treat each conductor in rosin separately. But for high-quality soldering, you must have a powerful soldering iron - 80-100 W, which can quickly heat the soldering area to the required temperatures.

Auxiliary materials

In order to properly solder wires with a soldering iron, you also need:

• Stand. It may be completely made of metal or have metal holders for a soldering iron attached to a wooden/plastic stand. It is also convenient if you have a small metal box for rosin. Soldering with a soldering iron is more convenient with a homemade or factory-made stand - not very important
• File. Before work, sharpen the tip of the soldering iron. It should be smooth and clean without traces of soot. Then it is easy to solder. This is how you need to sharpen the soldering iron tip
• Pliers. It is difficult to hold the wires with your fingers while soldering - copper and aluminum have high thermal conductivity, which leads to rapid heating of nearby areas. Therefore, it is more convenient to solder wires with a soldering iron if you hold them with pliers. The only thing is that the tool should be miniature, with thin handles and jaws. In principle, you can use tweezers, but it is advisable to put a heat-shrink tube on the top of it (where you hold it with your fingers) - the steel also heats up quickly. Pliers - to hold the wires

Alcohol may be required to wash off the flux, and electrical tape or heat-shrinkable tubes of various diameters for insulation. These are all the materials and tools without which soldering wires with a soldering iron is impossible.

The entire technology of soldering wires with a soldering iron can be divided into several successive stages. All of them are repeated in a certain sequence:

• Training of conductors. When soldering wires, they are freed from insulation. After this, the oxide film is removed from them mechanically. You can use a small piece of fine-grit sandpaper. The metal should shine and be light.
• Tinning. Heat the soldering iron to the melting temperature of the rosin (it begins to actively melt when touched). Take a conductor, bring it to a piece of rosin, heat it with a soldering iron so that the entire stripped part of the wire is immersed in rosin. Then take a drop of solder onto the soldering iron tip and spread it over the treated part of the conductor. The solder spreads quickly, covering the wire with a thin layer. To make it distributed faster and more evenly, the wire is turned slightly. After tinning, copper conductors lose their redness and become silvery. This is how all wires that need to be soldered are processed. Tinning the wires
•  The tinned conductors are folded together, straightening them with your fingers so that they fit snugly against each other. If the soldering needs to be long, you can twist it. Holding the conductors, take solder onto the tip, press it to the soldering site, applying some force. At the same time, the soldering area heats up, the rosin begins to boil, and the solder spreads. When it covers the entire area and flows between the conductors, we can consider that soldering the conductors with a soldering iron is completed. They are held motionless for some time - until the solder cools down (to speed up the process, they blow on this place).

That's all. In the same way, you can solder two or more wires, you can solder a wire to some contact pad (for example, when soldering headphones, you can solder the wire to a plug or to a pad on a headphone), etc.

After you have finished soldering the wires with a soldering iron and they have cooled down, the connection must be insulated. You can wrap electrical tape, put it on, and then heat up the heat shrink tube. When it comes to electrical wiring, it is usually recommended to first screw on a few turns of electrical tape, and then put a heat-shrinkable tube on top, which is heated.

Differences in technology when using flux

If active flux is used rather than rosin, the tinning process changes. The cleaned conductor is lubricated with the compound, and then heated with a soldering iron with a small amount of solder. Further everything is as described.

Soldering twists with flux - faster and easier

There are also differences when soldering twists with flux. In this case, you can not tin each wire, but twist it, then treat it with flux and immediately start soldering. The conductors don’t even need to be cleaned—the active compounds corrode the oxide film. But instead, you will have to wipe the soldering areas with alcohol to wash away the remnants of chemically aggressive substances.

Features of soldering stranded wires

The soldering technology described above is suitable for monocores. If the wire is multi-core, there are nuances: before tinning, the wires are untwisted so that everything can be dipped in rosin. When applying solder, you need to make sure that each wire is covered with a thin layer of solder. After cooling, the wires are twisted into one bundle again, then you can solder with a soldering iron as described above - dipping the tip into solder, heating the soldering area and applying tin.

When tinning, multi-core wires must be “fluffed”

Is it possible to solder copper wire to aluminum

Aluminum cannot be combined directly with other chemically active metals. Since copper is a chemically active material, copper and aluminum are not joined or soldered. The point is too different thermal conductivity and different current conductivity.

When current passes, aluminum heats up more and expands more. Copper heats up and expands much less.

Constant expansion/constriction to varying degrees leads to the fact that even the best contact is broken, a non-conducting film is formed, and everything stops working. That's why copper and aluminum are not soldered.

If there is such a need to connect copper and aluminum conductors, make a bolted connection. Take a bolt with a suitable nut and three washers. At the ends of the connected wires, rings are formed according to the size of the bolt. Take a bolt, put on one washer, then a conductor, another washer - the next conductor, a third washer on top and secure everything with a nut.

Aluminum and copper conductors cannot be soldered

There are several other ways to connect aluminum and copper lines, but soldering is not one of them. You can read about other methods here, but bolted is the simplest and most reliable.

Source: https://stroychik.ru/elektrika/pajka-provodov-payalnikom

Solder

solder is used to connect the surfaces of components and parts to each other - an alloy of lead and tin in various proportions.

As a rule, solder is made in the form of a wire or tube filled with flux. It is better to give preference to solder in the form of a wire, since flux will have to be used in any case.

Typically, solders differ in melting point and hardness, and are marked with alphabetic and numerical values, for example, POS-60.

POS - tin-lead solder, the number 60 means the percentage of tin in the alloy, respectively 40% lead. The more lead in the solder, the darker it is and the higher the melting point of the solder. For home use, it is better to purchase POS-60 solder with a melting point of about 190 °C, and also has good strength.

Fluxes

Fluxes are designed to dissolve and remove oxides from the surface of parts being soldered, serve to protect metal and solder surfaces from oxidation, and ensure good wetting of the surface of parts with liquid solder.

For example, tip is made of copper, which oxidizes when heated, and a carbon crust forms on the working surface of the tip. If you touch the solder with such a tip, it will naturally melt, but it will not remain on the working surface, but will simply roll off, so you will not be able to solder anything with such a soldering iron.

The most common and affordable flux is rosin , which is made from pine resin. It looks like amber, transparent with a yellowish tint.

Preparing the soldering iron tip for soldering

And so, you bought a soldering kit. The first step is to prepare the soldering iron, namely its working part ( tip ), since it is not yet very suitable for soldering. We clamp it with pliers, take a file, and begin to carefully process the tip, giving it the shape of a dihedral angle of approximately 3045 degrees.

You have prepared the tip of the tip, but you cannot turn on the soldering iron yet, because when you turn it on for the first time, it emits smoke and an unpleasant odor, this is normal.
This happens because during the first heating, the adhesive layer with which the mica sheets were glued together when winding the heating element burns out.

Soldering iron heating element design

Let's look at the sectional design of the heating element.

The heating element in soldering irons is usually a nichrome wire wound around a metal tube into which a copper rod (tip) is inserted. The electric current heats up the nichrome wire, which in turn transfers heat to the copper rod, heating it.

To isolate this wire from contact with the protective casing and metal tube, mica is used, which is laid in layers between them.

Homemade soldering iron stand

Another thing you need, and you can’t live without it, is a soldering iron stand .
You can buy it there in the store, or you can make it yourself. It is enough to take a small wooden block and a metal lid used in home canning. You will put the remaining solder and flux in it, and also tin the leads of the parts and the soldering iron tip in it.

It is advisable to make a rectangular bath from the lid. Just be careful when you cut the lid, its edges are sharp as a blade, do all work with gloves.

So.
Cut a rectangle out of the lid with scissors, make markings with a marker, as in the picture, and bend the edges with pliers. When finished, be sure to file the edges of the bath and nail it to the block with two small nails. All. Your stand is ready.

Advice! Take electrical tape and tape the soldering iron wire to the handle as shown in the photo. This will save you from any surprises. Believe me!!!

Now you can turn on the soldering iron.
If you are indoors, then open the window, plug in the soldering iron and expose it to fresh air for 30-40 minutes. After this time, the product is ready for use.

Final preparation of the soldering iron tip. Service

As you noticed, the copper has turned dark blue, so we take a file and go over the working part of the tip, removing scale from it. Now quickly dip the tip into a jar of rosin and touch the solder to both sides.

Then, using small movements along the bottom of the bath, as if you were working with an eraser, move the tip back and forth, periodically dipping it in rosin for better wetting, until the working part is covered with solder on both sides.
Happened! The sting should always be this white .

Remember! The key to good soldering is a soldering iron tip that is free of oxides and well tinned. The solder should be a thin layer evenly distributed over the entire working surface of the tip .

Here you go. You have prepared the soldering iron for soldering, and now you can safely start practicing. In the second part of the article, how to properly solder with a soldering iron with rosin, you will learn how to tin and solder conductors together .
Good luck!

Source: https://sesaga.ru/kak-pravilno-payat-payalnikom-s-kanifolyu.html

How to learn to solder: step-by-step instructions, features and recommendations from professionals

A soldering iron is considered one of the most common tools that can be found in any owner’s home. It is not necessary to be a specialist and do soldering professionally. But every representative of the stronger sex must have general fundamental knowledge. Breaks in wires in electrical appliances, contacts in sockets, headphones, repairing circuit boards are frequent phenomena, when faced with which a person wants to learn how to learn to solder.

What is a soldering iron?

This is a special heat-emitting device with a power of 15 to 40 W, sufficient for soldering wires, circuit boards and microcircuits. There are soldering irons with higher power.

They are intended for small soldering - for resoldering poorly connected thick-diameter wires or for unsoldering XLR connectors.

The function of the heating element in soldering irons is performed by a nichrome wire, which is wound around a tube containing a “tip” - the working surface of the device. The tip is a copper rod that is heated by a nichrome wire.

The soldering iron uses copper because this metal has high thermal conductivity. Heat is supplied to the wire by electric current. The soldering iron device contains an insulator, which is mica. For safety reasons, it prevents the wires from contacting the metal tube and soldering iron casing.

Learning to solder correctly is easy, but only if you choose the right tool. Among the wide variety of these devices, an amateur craftsman who decides to start repairing office equipment should choose an acoustic soldering iron, which is small in size and has good performance. It has a low heat capacity, which is desirable for fine soldering work when assembling microcircuits.

It is better for a novice master to opt for a device whose power does not exceed 40 W. It is important that the soldering iron is also not weaker than 15 W, since the power in such a product will not be enough even to connect simple wires of office equipment. It is preferable to buy a tool with a three-way grounding plug.

Its presence will prevent possible voltage dissipation during the movement of electric current to the metal tube.

An industrial soldering iron is suitable for connecting calibration wires, chassis and stained glass work.

Which sting is better?

The working parts of soldering irons, depending on the size, are of two types:

• ordinary, the diameter of which is 0.5 cm;
• miniature with a diameter of 0.2 cm, used for soldering very thin wires and copper parts.

The working parts of soldering irons can have the shape of a needle, cone and blade. The last form is the most common, as it makes it possible to scoop out the required amount of solder. In addition, for ease of soldering, the tip can be straight or curved.

The soldering procedure involves joining two metal elements using a third one (solder). In this case, the melting temperature of the connected parts must be higher than that of the third element, which, in the molten state, penetrates into the spaces of the connected parts, as well as into their structure, providing a mechanical connection. At the same time, an electrical contact appears between the parts being connected.

What do you need for work?

The soldering procedure is not complicated. The question of how to learn to solder from scratch is easily resolved. To do this, just acquire the necessary material and, following the instructions, start training.

Where can I learn to solder?

You can train at home by soldering ordinary electrical wires. The main thing is to follow the safety instructions.

The work may require:

• soldering iron (according to professionals, to work with small wires in electronics and radio engineering, a tool with a power of 20-40 W will be sufficient);
• pliers;
• knife;
• scissors;
• set of files;
• sandpaper;
• insulating tape;
• rosin;
• solder.

The question “how to learn to solder” will be resolved after several training sessions. The beginner will gain confidence and experience. Step-by-step soldering instructions can help him with this.

Where to begin?

• Preparing the sting. To do this, using pliers and needle files, you need to clean the working part of the soldering iron. The tip should have an angle of 30-45 degrees. If the tip is damaged, it must be sharpened again to the required shape. After this, the tip is tinning - the heated soldering iron should be dipped first in rosin, and then in solder.
• For safety reasons, it is necessary to prepare a pad for the soldering iron. This is due to the fact that the device heats up to a temperature of more than 300 degrees and operates under high electrical voltage. It is important to optimize your workplace when using a soldering iron. It is advisable that a piece of textolite or plywood be used as a lining. Special trays for solder and rosin are also required.
• Cleaning the surfaces of metals to be joined under solder. To do this you will need sandpaper, solvent or soldering acid. It is important that there are no remaining oils, greases or other contaminants on the surfaces on which solder will be applied.

Sequence of work

How to learn to solder correctly will become clear if you follow the step-by-step instructions. Necessary:

• Place the soldering iron on the stand and plug it into the mains.
• Dip in rosin. This is done 5-7 minutes after connecting to the outlet. The purpose of this procedure is to check the heating temperature of the tip and get rid of scale. The soldering iron is considered ready for use if the rosin boils and melts. If it only softens, then the sting is not warmed up enough. When the soldering iron overheats, the rosin hisses and spatters. In this case, the device needs to cool down a little.
• Treat surfaces with tinning. The joints of metal products are covered with molten solder.
• Press the tinned surfaces together. Apply a new portion of solder in the places where they are combined with a soldering iron. The joined parts must be pressed until the solder cools and hardens.

Solder Use

Successful soldering is possible with skillful selection of the necessary solder - an alloy of tin and lead. The most common types of solder are POS-40 and POS-60. They are characterized by a low melting point (183 degrees) and are used in most soldering jobs to connect steel elements. This standard solder is in the form of a wire with a diameter of 2.5 mm, which is very convenient for working with microcircuits.

To solder aluminum parts, it is advisable to purchase special aluminum solder. During operation, it is important to remember that, when heated, tin-lead compounds emit gases that are very harmful to humans. Therefore, it is recommended to work with them in a well-ventilated area using special respirators, gloves and safety glasses.

How to learn to solder wires?

So how do you connect the wires? The operating sequence is standard for all types of soldering. The connected ends of the wires are tinned. But for reliable fastening, it is recommended to twist them tightly together. During the procedure, the soldering iron tip is directed to the joints with one hand, and solder wire is brought to this place with the other.

In some cases, twisting the wires is not possible. Then the ends of the wires to be connected must be laid parallel to each other and compressed with pliers. The work is performed with one hand, the second one directs the soldering iron tip with solder to the joint. Holding the ends of the wire should be done after removing the soldering iron tip from the soldering area.

Sometimes there is a need to connect the end of one wire to the middle of another. Twisting in this case is done by twisting the end of the wire around another to which it is attached.

It must be remembered that butt soldering of wires is not possible, since its reliability depends on the strength of the mechanical connection.

The question of how to learn to solder wires is one of the most pressing among Internet users. Having mastered the technique of splicing and soldering, craftsmen have the opportunity to independently, without the help of specialists, perform a number of the following tasks:

• seamless heating equipment;
• electric guitar cord extension;
• connecting a USB cable to an antenna, etc.

What is heat shrink?

When splicing wires, professionals recommend using special heat-shrinkable tubes. Their diameter must be twice that of the wire. The tube is placed on one end of the wire. After mechanically interlocking with another wire and soldering, the heat shrink is dragged to the place where they are connected.

It should be positioned so that 1 cm remains at each end of the seam. After this, soldering is performed again. The heat shrink should evenly cover and heat the wire connection.

As a result of exposure of the tube to high temperatures, it is sealed, providing reliable insulation in the connection area, as well as strong mechanical adhesion.

How to learn to solder boards?

Before starting complex soldering, for example, working with diode strips, experts recommend that novice craftsmen acquire inexpensive budget boards. After practicing on them and mastering standard soldering techniques, after some time the beginner will learn how to solder microcircuits.

This type of soldering consists of successive steps:

• Preparatory. Before starting work, you need to ensure a strong connection and reduce resistance. For this purpose, the surface must be thoroughly cleaned of grease and dust. For degreasing, you can use napkins and soap solution. Acetone is used when you need to clean the surface of a circuit to a shine. Methyl hydrate is recommended as a safer solvent. It is as effective as acetone, but has a less pungent odor.
• Placement of board parts to be soldered. Before you learn how to solder circuits, you need to know the locations of all its elements. Flat parts must be soldered first. These are a resistor and a varistor. Then they move on to the capacitor, transistor, transformer, microphone and potentiometer. This sequence guarantees the safety of temperature-sensitive board elements.
• Heating the joint to improve the thermal conductivity of the metal. The soldering iron tip must be pressed against the circuit components for a few seconds. It is important to prevent it from overheating. This will be indicated by bubbles appearing on the surface. In this case, the soldering iron must be removed from the soldering area.
• Solder application. This is carried out until a slight elevation appears on the diagram.
• Removal of surplus. Performed after the solder has hardened and cooled. It is recommended not to rush, but to give the circuit some time to cool down. This is important because the connections made may be damaged and the work will have to be done again.

Every man should learn how to solder circuits. This will make it possible to repair plugs, modems, etc. yourself.

Soldering as a process is not limited to working with copper wires and microcircuits. Having mastered the ability to use a soldering iron on wires, you can move on to subsequent, more complex operations using various solders and various metals.

Source: https://FB.ru/article/253821/kak-nauchitsya-payat-poshagovaya-instruktsiya-osobennosti-i-rekomendatsii-professionalov

How to solder correctly with a soldering iron: what is required for soldering using rosin

Whatever innovations the modern market of tools for repairing radio equipment offers, the soldering iron remains one of the most reliable and safe devices.

The process of soldering wires and microcircuits is considered effective because it allows you to achieve the strongest possible connection between wires and small parts.

This result can be achieved by adding a special material to the contact area - solder, which has a lower melting point than that of the parts being connected.

Thus, soldering with a soldering iron is the effect of a certain temperature on different metal surfaces for their strong and high-quality connection. However, before you start working with a soldering iron, you should first understand the rules of soldering and other intricacies of this process.

How to solder correctly with a soldering iron and rosin

Rosin has such unique qualities as ease of dissolution in various organic compounds, for example, acetone or alcohol. When heated, this substance can break down complex chemical compounds such as copper, tin or lead. Therefore, proper use of rosin helps reduce the likelihood of spreading of the substance, destruction of the oxide coating, as well as high-quality tinning of soldered elements.

You also need to take into account that the thinner the tip of the soldering iron, the easier it will be to work with it, especially when it comes to soldering very thin wires and parts. Therefore, if it has not yet been sharpened, this should be done before starting work.

Process description

• First, you should prepare the workspace where you plan to seal the parts. To do this, you need to open the window, since the fumes that come from the solder heavily pollute the air. You should also take any sponge, soak it thoroughly in water and place it as close to the soldering iron as possible. Well, in order not to stain your work area with drops of solder, it is best to cover the surface on which you will be working with thick cardboard or some other similar covering.
• There must be a stand for the device at hand.
• Then you need to plug the soldering iron into a power outlet and heat it up. As the device heats up, a specific smell and noticeable smoke may appear - this is normal. The device will be ready for use immediately after the tip is completely heated and the smoke and unpleasant aroma have evaporated.
• After the tool has been calcined, it should be turned off. This is necessary in order to pre-clean the tip from dirt and plaque. It is best to clean the instrument while it is hot. To do this, you can use a prepared sponge or cloth.
• Then you need to turn on the soldering iron again and let it warm up thoroughly.
• After cleaning and heating the tool, you should carry out the process of tinning the tip of the soldering iron - covering the tip with a light layer of solder, in this case rosin. Thanks to this simple manipulation, the heat transfer between the parts that are intended for soldering will significantly increase.
• Next, you need to dip the tip of the heated device into rosin for a while so that a little solder accumulates on the tip. You should wait a little while until the solder heats up and begins to soften.
• Excess rosin can be removed using cardboard or other available tools.
• If you plan to solder one copper part, then one tinning will be enough - you need to touch the rosin once, then apply the tip of the soldering iron with solder to the working surface and wait a little until the wires are covered with solder. As a result of these manipulations, the rosin will begin to smoke, and the soldered parts will flow around the molten substance.
• In order to solder two parts efficiently, they also need to be tinned separately, that is, covered with solder. It should be remembered that the tinning process is a mandatory procedure, without which it will not be possible to properly solder the necessary parts.
• After finishing work with the soldering iron, while it is still warm, you need to remove the remaining solder. To do this, the tip of the tool just needs to be wiped with a damp cloth, or better yet, a sponge soaked in alcohol or any other composition intended for these purposes.

There should not be any particular difficulties when working with the tool. For everything to go smoothly, it is best to first practice working with rosin on parts that you won’t mind throwing away later. After all, experience always comes with practice.

In order to correctly solder copper wires using rosin, you must follow a certain sequence of actions.

• First prepare the wires . To do this, the ends of the wires that need to be soldered must be thoroughly stripped of insulation. All wires spliced ​​together are usually insulated using a special heat-shrinkable tube. If such a tube is present, then it must be cut using a sharp knife so that the length extends 2-7 mm beyond all seams. The insulating coating should be about two centimeters on each side of the wires being connected. The exposed ends of the wires must be burned to completely remove the insulation.
• Then the connected ends of the wires need to be provided with a high-quality mechanical connection. To do this, the two ends of the wire are twisted together so that their centers intersect tightly with each other. After this, the end of one wire should be twisted along the length of the cable. The same manipulation should be done with the second end of the other wire.
• Then you need to heat up the soldering iron to first tin the wires and then warm them up. To do this, a heated soldering iron is lowered into rosin and a little solder is taken, after which the device is passed a couple of times along the ends of the wire. During tinning, the wire should be rotated and heated, which will help ensure an even coating of rosin.
• At the end of the work, the finished wire should be insulated . To do this, you need to put the heat shrink back on the already soldered wires. This will not only help cover the connection, but also heat it, making the soldered wire strong and flexible.

As you can see, there are no particular difficulties with soldering wires using rosin. The main thing is not to forget to tin the wire and check the quality of the soldering. If necessary, tinning should be repeated several times until the wires are firmly connected with solder.

Important Tips

Having figured out how to use a soldering iron, you should consider several recommendations for working with this tool.

• Before starting work, to ensure high-quality soldering of parts, you should always clean the tip of the tool. You need to understand that only thanks to the soldering iron tip the thermal conductivity and quality of the connection are enhanced. You can use a damp sponge for cleaning. After cleaning, the tip of the device should be immediately dipped in rosin so that it is covered with a thin layer of solder, which prevents oxide deposits from interfering with high-quality soldering of parts.
• You should always solder small and thin parts first, since the tip of the device at the beginning of its use will be as thin and precise as possible.
• Before soldering parts, their surface must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and acid. Cleaning the surface of soldered objects is done using a sharp tool - sandpaper or a regular knife. This is done until the surface of the wires noticeably brightens. After which the contacts are tinned and connected using solder.
• If you need to solder some part without using a soldering iron, you can use rosin, previously dissolved in alcohol. The resulting mixture can be applied to the desired surface using any thin tool, such as a screwdriver.
• The highest quality soldering can be achieved by using solder with rosin.
• In order to correctly and tightly solder wires and other parts using solder, you first need to heat the joints with a soldering iron.
• The mistake of many is poor heating of the soldering iron. If this happens, the parts do not connect well. Therefore, before you start using the tool, you need to warm it up thoroughly.
• However, severe overheating of a soldering iron with maximum power can also negatively affect the quality of work. You need to understand that there are different temperature conditions intended for a specific type of work.
• Soldering temperature is a very important nuance. For example, to seal various microcircuits, the temperature should be no more than 250 degrees. But in order to connect radio components, you will need to heat the soldering iron to more than 300 degrees.
• When working with electrical appliances, safety precautions must be observed. To do this, you need to make sure that the window is open and the socket is working. This is due to the fact that when working with solder, harmful chemical elements are released that negatively affect health. As for the serviceability of the outlet, this is also a very important point - in the process of severe overheating, fires often occur. Therefore, the workplace must first be prepared and secured, and only then can we begin to work.

If you take note of these little tricks , the process of soldering parts will go quickly, and most importantly, with high quality.

A soldering iron is a universal tool with which you can quickly connect broken wires or contacts, as well as quickly repair a microcircuit or connect light metal surfaces.

The ease of operation of the device allows any man to learn how to use it in the shortest possible time.

And what is important: working with a soldering iron does not require any professional skills.

Source: https://tokar.guru/instrumenty/payalniki/kak-pravilno-polzovatsya-payalnikom-s-kanifolyu-uchimsya-payat.html

Homemade 12 volt soldering iron: how it works, how to make it from a resistor with your own hands

Many home craftsmen have already thoroughly studied how to make a soldering iron with their own hands and how to use it correctly. There are many options for making tools; you can even use improvised means to assemble them. The main thing is to know how the device works and understand what it is needed for.

The most difficult to manufacture at home is a miniature and low-power 12-volt soldering iron. However, you can make it with your own hands, but you need to have the appropriate skills and abilities.

Areas of use

Before you learn how to make a mini-soldering iron, you need to figure out what it is for . Such a device for home needs will never be superfluous. Using a homemade 12 volt soldering iron you can do the following:

• Solder microcircuits of various home appliances.
• Repair parts of micro-earphones.
• Repair electronic watches.
• Repair phone chargers and more.

Such a device is manufactured with the expectation that it will be powered not directly from the network, but through a 220/12 volt transformer.

What do you need for work?

Most materials and tools will not need to be purchased additionally, since home craftsmen will most likely have them at home. Among the working materials:

• copper wire for the production of soldering base;
• tin tube under the casing;
• nichrome wire;
• plastic handle;
• copper foil;
• electrical cord with heat-resistant insulation;
• silicate glue;
• talc for the production of electrical insulating mass.

If copper foil is not at hand, it can be replaced with foiled fiberglass laminate, which is often used in the production of printed circuit boards or circuits. But if they are not available, then you can buy everything in a specialized store for an average of 200 rubles. And to get another sheet of foil, heat the fiberglass laminate with a simple iron and pull it around the corner, first dividing it into thin plates, and wrap it around a round stick.

The key element of the design is a 220 to 12 volt transformer, through which the device will receive the necessary energy from the mains. Sometimes a device of the TVK-11OL brand is used, which can be pulled out of an old tube TV.

Required tools include:

• pliers;
• wire cutters;
• tweezers;
• rags;
• stove (gas or electric);
• plates or boards for washing with glue.

Mini soldering iron assembly process

Copper wire will act as a tip for a mini soldering iron. You only need 50 mm of it. Sharpen it into a dihedral angle on one side and tin the edges. This tip will be located inside the heating element.

Then make a special electrical insulating mass:

• Mix talc and liquid glass (or silicate glue) together.
• To prevent the mass from sticking to your hands, apply the insulation to the cylindrical surface with tweezers and sprinkle it with talcum powder.

Roll the foil into a tube about 35 mm long, which will serve as the base for the heating element. On one side, the soldering iron tip will be visible from under it. Cover the tube with insulating paste. Dry the wet applied mixture over the stove until it hardens completely.

Then wind a spiral nichrome wire no more than 350 mm long onto the finished base. The turns should be laid carefully as close as possible to each other, and the upper and lower turns from 30 to 60 mm should be left as leads.

Then cover the structure again with the electrical insulating mixture and dry it over the stove.

Bend the folded end of the wire back and press it firmly against the surface of the tube, then apply the mixture again. And only after this can the heating element of the structure be used.

The wire protruding from under the heating element must be covered with electrical insulating mass . Don’t forget to check the quality of your work every time you use it.

When the base is completely covered with insulation, you can assemble the mini-soldering iron itself. The ends of the nichrome heater are connected to the handle; for this purpose, an electrical cord in heat-resistant insulation is pulled through the internal plastic cavity. Be sure to insulate and dry the exposed areas and place a tin protective casing on the heater and connect it to the handle. After this, the device is ready for use.

Homemade soldering iron from a resistor

To produce various instruments at home, amateurs often use all sorts of improvised means. A soldering iron based on a resistor is easy to use, reliable and simple.

As in the previous case, you will need copper and steel wire, as well as double-sided PCB. In addition to the previously listed elements, you will need a ballpoint pen for the case and a special resistor with a resistance of 5 to 10 ohms.

The algorithm of actions is as follows:

• Remove paint from the resistor with a scalpel or sandpaper. It must be connected to a regulated power source.
• When the resistor is thoroughly cleaned of paint, remove one of its legs and use the other as a current conductor or fastening element.
• In the part of the resistor where you removed the leg, drill a hole with a diameter of 1 mm to install the tip.
• Countersink the hole with a large-diameter drill so that the soldering iron tip and cup do not come into contact.
• Above the fillet, make a circular cut to attach the current conductor to a depth of two to three from the thickness.
• For the current conductor, you can take a well-tinned spring, the ring of which must fit tightly onto the cup.
• Make a board from PCB, which should have a wide part for soldering the current conductor and heat dissipation, as well as a medium part for the handle body and a narrow part for the wiring and casing.

Then start assembling the structure. Place the current conductor from the spring onto the front cup and solder the current conductors to the textolite board. Install the tip by first covering it with ceramics or mica so that there is no access to current. Then solder the wires to the board. It is recommended to use a regulated device for the battery.

As for the features of using homemade mini-soldering irons, their application is no different from factory models. The only thing is that you can save your money . Thanks to such devices, you can do even miniature household soldering work yourself.

Source: https://220v.guru/fizicheskie-ponyatiya-i-pribory/payalniki/kak-sdelat-payalnik-svoimi-rukami-v-domashnih-usloviyah.html