How to sharpen a hammer drill

Sharpening Pobedit drill bits for concrete – Machine tools, welding, metalworking

A concrete drill is a specially designed drill whose cutting part is made of alloys based on tungsten and titanium. A drill of this design is designed to drill brick, concrete, stone and marble. A properly sharpened sds drill is the key to quick drilling and savings. The drill has two functions simultaneously:

1. It acts as a twist drill.
2. Breaks material like a chisel.

Most often, concrete drills are a rod with a soldered tip made of carbide material.

Unlike a drill for concrete and stone, the sds plus drill is used when working with a hammer drill. The tool is affected not only by the force in the plane of rotation, but also by the impact force. The drill operates under very harsh conditions.

During operation, any cutting tool becomes dull, including drills and drills. Tools heat up and drilling time increases.

In a hammer drill, the drill also experiences shock load and the question arises of how to sharpen the drill for concrete.

A few tips during the drilling process to extend the life of the concrete drill:

1. Constantly monitor the heating of the tool, preventing it from overheating.
2. Do not cool a heated drill or drill by sudden immersion in water.
3. When drilling ceramic tiles, do not use the hammer drill mode.

Tips for sharpening a drill bit at home

Before you learn how to sharpen a drill or drill for concrete, you need to clarify the main design features of the tool.

The working edge of the drill is formed by the convergence of the front and rear edges. The angle between the front edge and the axis of the drill is 30°. The angle between the rear edge and the axis of the drill has a value of 60°.

The working edges of the drill should form an angle of 120°.

This is what a sharpened drill looks like

There is an opinion that the sds+ drill for concrete does not require sharpening and is replaced with a new one after complete wear. This version is especially warmly supported by workers in construction tool stores.

But by learning how to sharpen a drill or auger correctly, you will see that the life of the drill can be significantly extended.

Sharpening a drill involves setting the cutting edge of the drill to the desired shape. Both the front and back edges of the drill are sharpened.

When inserting a drill into a material, only the cutting edges of the tool should work, and the back of the drill should not touch the surface being processed.

At any time during the drilling process, the back surface of the drill must have a gap with the surface being machined.

Otherwise, the tool not only drills poorly, but also quickly heats up, becomes dull, and collapses.

Important tips on how to sharpen a metal drill correctly.

Methods for sharpening drills for concrete

How to sharpen a drill bit for a hammer drill and with what?
Pobedit is a very strong alloy and cannot be sharpened with regular sandpaper and a stone. Correctly sharpening a drill or auger for concrete can only be done with diamond or abrasive wheels made of silicon carbide or CBN. We highly recommend buying a diamond wheel for sharpening the tool; it will last a long time and the tool will be sharp.

Work order

The wheel must be installed on the sharpening machine. Sharpening on a sharpening machine is carried out in strict compliance with safety precautions. The thrust bearing is installed with minimal clearance, work is performed without gloves, and the eyes are protected by a special shield or glasses.

Before sharpening, it is necessary to correct the peripheral surface of the wheel using a CBN insert, that is, to level the sharpening surface of the stone.

Before moving on to the answer to the question of how to sharpen a drill bit for concrete at home, let’s take a closer look at the sharpening process.

Drill bit with insert for working on concrete

We will carry out standard sharpening of drill bits for concrete.

Having secured the device, place the drill on it and bring it to the surface of the sharpening stone so that the cutting edge is parallel to the plane of the sharpening stone.

We sharpen both edges, checking their symmetry for clearance and the angle between them at 120°.

Let's move on to sharpening the leading edges

The drill rests on a fixture that provides an angle of 30°. The drill is brought to the stone plane to be sharpened at an angle of 30° and the front edge is sharpened.

Turning the drill 180°, we also sharpen the second front edge.

Now the drill must be brought to the surface of the stone to be sharpened at an angle of 60°. This is achieved by placing the drill on another part of the fixture.

Sharpening the rear edges is done in a similar way.
If after sharpening you end up with cutting edges of different sizes, sharpening should be repeated in full.

To fully understand the sharpening process on a sharpening machine, watch the instructional video.

Everything is clear with the sharpening machine. Or you can use a used diamond blade for an angle grinder.

To ensure high-quality sharpening of the drill, it is necessary to equip the machine with a thrust bearing, on which the drill should rest when sharpening. A piece of corner, firmly attached to a grinder or table, can serve as a thrust bearing.

If the diamond disc is not placed on the grinder, then it can be easily secured by performing the simple manipulations shown in the video about sharpening the drill.
When sharpening, it is necessary to give the back surface of the drill the required shape.

The cutting edges of the drill are sharpened and the back surface is removed. Any point on the back surface of the drill should not touch the material being processed.

Source: https://stanki-info.com/zatochka-pobeditovyh-sverl-po-betonu/

Sharpening drill bits for a rotary hammer - Let's make it together

A concrete drill is a specially designed drill whose cutting part is made of alloys based on tungsten and titanium. A drill of this design is designed to drill brick, concrete, stone and marble. A properly sharpened sds drill is the key to quick drilling and savings. The drill has two functions simultaneously:

1. It acts as a twist drill.
2. Breaks material like a chisel.

Most often, concrete drills are a rod with a soldered tip made of carbide material.

Unlike a drill for concrete and stone, the sds plus drill is used when working with a hammer drill. The tool is affected not only by the force in the plane of rotation, but also by the impact force. The drill operates under very harsh conditions.

During operation, any cutting tool becomes dull, including drills and drills. Tools heat up and drilling time increases.

In a hammer drill, the drill also experiences shock load and the question arises of how to sharpen the drill for concrete.

A few tips during the drilling process to extend the life of the concrete drill:

1. Constantly monitor the heating of the tool, preventing it from overheating.
2. Do not cool a heated drill or drill by sudden immersion in water.
3. When drilling ceramic tiles, do not use the hammer drill mode.

How to sharpen a concrete drill at home

» Articles » How to sharpen a drill bit for concrete at home

Concrete drills are made of a hard special alloy. Drills most often have a soldered tip made of a very hard alloy based on titanium and tungsten. These drills can be used to drill stone, concrete, brick, ceramics, marble and some other similar materials.

Drills for concrete with a tip made of titanium and tungsten alloy, used for drilling stone, brick, marble, ceramics.

It is necessary to distinguish between drills and concrete drills.

They differ in the shape of the shank. The concrete drill is designed for an impact drill and has a standard shank shape, the same as an ordinary drill for metal or wood. The drill is intended for a hammer drill and has a shank for an SDS-design chuck. Today, there are 2 types of SDS shanks: some have a diameter of 10 mm, and others have a diameter of 18 mm.

To drill reinforcement, it is necessary to replace the drill with metal drills.

It should be borne in mind that the concrete device is designed to work with stone, concrete, ceramics and other similar materials. They should not drill into wood or metal. If, while drilling concrete, the drill comes up against steel reinforcement, you will need to replace it with metal drills, and then drill through the reinforcement. After this, you can continue drilling into concrete.

Today, there are methods that make it possible to sharpen such structures on concrete in such a way that they can also drill into metal. However, these methods are considered to be artisanal, and therefore, their use is not recommended.

Work process

When drilling (drilling) solid concrete, it is necessary to monitor overheating. Every 10-15 seconds you will need to let this drilling structure cool down. Under no circumstances should you cool it with water or any other liquids. High-quality modern drills can withstand fairly high heat (more than 1000 degrees).

It happens that a hard stone can get caught in concrete. If an impact drill is used, it may not drill through the stone. In such a case, you can take a special chipper or some old similar drilling device for concrete and, using a heavy hammer or sledgehammer, you can try to manually crush such a stone. After this, you can continue with the drilling process.

The hard stone in concrete is crushed by hand using a heavy hammer or sledgehammer.

Drilling into stone and hard concrete is a somewhat labor-intensive process, especially if you plan to use an impact drill.

In some difficult cases, for example, when you need to make holes in ceilings or load-bearing walls, you should use a hammer drill in impact drill mode.

Especially when making a suspended ceiling and it is necessary to make holes to secure profiles in the concrete floor, you should not try to work with a drill. The apartment owner will only get tired and lose some time.

Sometimes concrete drills are sharpened using a grinder with a diamond blade. If the work is carried out using a hammer drill and there are high-quality drills, they will not require sharpening.

Do not use the impact drill mode when drilling ceramic tiles. Ceramics must be drilled using a concrete drill, but in the mode of an ordinary drill. Do not press too hard, otherwise the tile may crack.

Basic Rules

Dull concrete drill bits can be sharpened on a corundum grinding wheel.

Like any cutting tool, concrete drills will gradually become dull and lose their properties. However, at home this happens somewhat slower, and therefore the cutting tool is most often not sharpened at all - the easiest way is to purchase a new one. However, if there is such a need, carbide tips of drills can be sharpened on a corundum grinding wheel in the same way as ordinary devices.

It is imperative to take into account the fact that concrete drills are afraid of heating when sharpening - in this case, the carbide plates fall off and crack. Therefore, the tip will need to be cooled with water from time to time, and then ensure that the drill does not get too hot on the sharpening stone.

If the tip does get hot, it is strictly forbidden to immerse it in water - the plate will immediately burst. This drilling device must be allowed to cool slowly and gradually in the air.

To protect the drill bits from heating up when sharpening, the tip must be cooled with water.

In case of correct sharpening, the cutting edges must be straight, and their intersection must exactly coincide with the axis of rotation of the drill. If the length of the cutting edges is not the same, the short one will be less loaded during operation than the longer one. Consequently, the long one will become dull much faster.

In addition, under the influence of increased loads from the longer edge, the drill may begin to be pushed away from the axis of rotation. As a result, the drill may break. If the sharpening angles of the cutting edges turn out to be different, only the edge that has a larger sharpening angle will work. This can also lead to the risk of breaking the drill during operation and to a one-sided load.

Several ways

A drill, penetrating into the material being processed, must come into contact with the workpiece exclusively with its cutting edges. All other points on the flank surface must have clearance with the bottom of the hole (cutting surface). For clearance to exist, the shape of the back surface must be different from the shape of the bottom of the hole.

There are a fairly large number of possible sharpening methods that make it possible to create the desired clearance angles, the gap between the back surface of the drill and the cutting surfaces. Depending on the shape that the back surface will receive, they can be divided into helical, conical and flat sharpening methods.

Using a conical sharpener

When conical sharpening a drill, it is necessary to correctly set the geometric parameters.

Conical sharpening is the most common method. The drill is installed in a prism, which has the ability to swing around an axis that is inclined to the working surface of the grinding wheel. The swing axis and the drill axis are crossed. This means that they will lie in two parallel planes.

The drill, which is fixed in the prism, is brought to the grinding wheel. The rear surface will take the shape of a section of a conical surface. The vertex of the cone will lie at the intersection of the generatrix of the working surface of the circle with the swing axis.

Depending on the geometric sharpening parameters that were specified. When conical sharpening you should adjust:

1. The distance between the crossing axis of swing, which is the axis of the sharpening cone, and the axes of the drill (h).
2. Distance from the drill axis to the tip of the sharpening cone (H).
3. The angle of intersection between the axis of the sharpening cone and the axis of the drill (o).
4. Half the sharpening cone angle (b).

Two types of conical sharpening are used:

To obtain other values ​​for the inclination of the transverse edge, change the parameters and settings.

1.  The tip of the sharpening cone is located higher than the tip of the drill. In this case, the settings will be as follows: a = 45 degrees, b = 13-15 degrees, H = 1.9D, h = (0.05-0.08)D. The angle of intersection of the axis of the drill and the cone in this case is less than the angle φ0 between the axis of the generatrix of the grinding wheel and the drill.
2.  The tip of the sharpening cone is lower than the tip of the drill. The distance of the tip from the drill is H = 1.16D, half the sharpening cone angle b = 30-35 degrees, the intersection angle of the drill axis and the cone axis is o = 90 degrees, offset h = (0.05-0.08)D. For this type of sharpening 0 > f0.

The specified installation parameters are capable of providing clearance angles for the peripheral point a = 5-7 degrees, a leading angle 2f = 116-118 degrees, and an inclination angle of the cutting transverse edge Ф = 55 degrees.

If there is a need to obtain other values ​​of the rear angles a and f (inclination of the transverse edge), the setting parameters should be measured.

The clearance angle is adjusted by changing the distance h between the crossing axes of the drill and the sharpening cone. The inclination angle of the cutting transverse edge (φ) is by rotating around an axis, the planing angle is a change in the angle o and b. With increasing distance between the axis of the drill and the axis of the sharpening cone (h), a will increase, and angles φ and 2φ will decrease. An increase in o, b and H, on the contrary, reduces 2f, f and a.

The clearance angle, which is measured in cylindrical sections, increases as it approaches the drill axis during conical sharpening.

Cylindrical section of the drill.

The first type of sharpening is capable of creating a sharper increase in the rear angles. Such a change in the rear angles is favorable. This is explained by the work of the drill. In addition to the rotational movement during operation, the drill will move along the axis.

Consequently, the trajectory of each of the points is a helix. This line is inclined to the cutting plane, which is determined without taking into account the axial movement of the drills at an angle m.

Its value is determined by the formula tg m = So / pD, where So = feed, mm/rev.

The actual clearance angle will decrease by a value of m. The closer the point in question lies to the drill axis, the more the clearance angle, which is measured during operation, will decrease. Consequently, an increase in clearance angles closer to the axis, which can be obtained with conical sharpening, will help increase durability.

Use of screw

When using the screw method, automation of the sharpening process is possible.

Screw sharpening is the method that makes it easiest to automate sharpening. The drill will be given rotation and two translational movements, which are coordinated with it, in relation to the grinding wheel. One of the movements is directed along the generatrix of the circle, the other along the axis of the drills. Oscillating is the movement along the generatrix of the circle parallel to the cutting edge, because it will not create back angles.

The backing movement is along the axis of the drill. During the screw sharpening process, there are 2 sections on the cutting edge: section 0-1, which is located on the diameter of the core. Sanded with a wheel edge. Section 1-2 of the circle's generatrix. In section 0-1, a sharpening of the jumper can be observed. In this section, the plan angle will decrease by the value of the angle v, which is formed by the vector vc. It is equal to the sum of the oscillation vectors v0 and the backing vectors v3 with the direction of the oscillation vector.

In a cylindrical section, the back angle in section 1-2 will be determined by the value of the backing vector: tg a = 2 | v3 | / (wD) or tg a = 2h4 / (nD), where h4 is the backing stroke, w is the angular speed of rotation of the drills.

The oscillation stroke is assumed to be approximately equal to or slightly greater than the core diameter. Relief angles will increase with increasing backing stroke. The clearance angles will not change as the oscillation stroke increases.

Diagram of screw drill angles.

Just as with conical sharpening, with helical sharpening the clearance angles, which are measured in a cylindrical section, increase as they approach the axis of the drill. In this case, the increase in the rear angles occurs to the same extent as their decrease as a result of the peculiarities of the drilling kinematics. Consequently, when setting even small clearance angles on the periphery, it will be possible to obtain clearance angles of the required size close to the drill axis.

When sharpened with a screw, the transverse cutting edge will become less durable as a result of sharpening. This will worsen the operating conditions of drills during drilling of strong and hard materials and cause increased wear of the transverse edge due to increased specific loads.

In the process of drilling materials of relatively low strength (aluminum alloys, cast iron and others), the strength of the tips will be quite sufficient. The drill can easily penetrate the material being processed. This can significantly improve drilling productivity and accuracy.

When working with solid carbide drills, two-plane sharpening can provide high durability when drilling material of relatively low strength and hardness - aluminum alloys, cast iron, non-metallic materials. When drilling hardened and difficult-to-cut steels with two-plane sharpening, increased wear of the cutting transverse edge near the centering point at the tip will be observed.

Source: http://vest-beton.ru/stati/kak-zatochit-sverlo-po-betonu-v-domashnih-usloviyah.html

How to use a hammer drill: insert a drill, tap walls, sharpen a drill, etc., useful video

The hammer drill was invented in 1851 as a tool for the mining industry. In 1932, Bosch presented in Germany the first electromechanical hammer drill designed for construction work. Since then, Bosch Hammers have been mass-produced, and other companies have acquired production licenses. The main functions of a hammer drill are drilling, drilling and hammering. How to use a hammer drill correctly when performing various types of work?

Operating principle of a hammer drill

The innovative essence of the invention of the hammer drill is that the impact force is generated by the tool itself. This happens due to the conversion of the rotational energy of the electric motor into the translational movement of the piston. The piston sets the firing pin in motion, which directly performs the work.

Depending on which tool is used and which mode is activated, the hammer drill can drill, drill, or operate in jackhammer mode.

The rated power of the rotary hammer ranges from 1.5 kJ to 20 kJ. If we imagine that a weight weighing 1 kg is dropped onto the floor from a height of 1 m, then it will hit the floor surface with a force of 1 kJ. Accordingly, a 20 kg weight will hit with a force of 20 kJ.

Rules for using the device

Rotary hammers are widely used in modern construction industry; they have replaced monotonous and ineffective manual labor. But its use is associated with certain risks that you need to be aware of before starting work.

Working with a hammer drill requires caution

First of all, you need to work with a working tool in the normal mode permitted by the manufacturer. The power supply must be provided through a cable whose cross-section corresponds to the power consumption.

After transporting the hammer drill in the cold season, you must wait at least half an hour to soften the lubricating fluids inside the mechanism.

The operator performing the work must be healthy. Before work, you must study the instructions for the device and safety regulations.

Basic operating modes of a rotary hammer

Rotary hammers operate in several basic modes, switchable by the operator depending on the work being performed.

Rotary hammer operating modes: drilling, drilling, impact

Drilling

Performed after switching the regulator to the appropriate mode (drill icon). The vast majority of rotary hammer models are equipped with a function for gradually increasing the speed of the working shaft. The speed is controlled using the start button. When you press lightly, the speed gradually rises from zero. When you press the button all the way, the speed becomes maximum.

Depending on what material needs to be drilled, it is recommended to adjust the speed of the drill or drill. Thus, it is best to drill wooden products at high speeds, metal ones at low speeds, and concrete or stone at medium speeds.

Most often, a hammer drill is used for drilling stone or concrete. This is due to the fact that the device of the chuck for fastening the drill has a play in the longitudinal axis, designed for the impact-drilling function. Therefore, when drilling holes in wood or metal, it is not always possible to achieve the desired accuracy. The drill tip may wobble slightly.

For precise drilling of holes, it is recommended to use a jaw chuck with an SDS shank. The drill is fixed without play in a jaw chuck, which is inserted into the hammer drill. The jaw chuck is included in the kit or purchased separately. With the help of a replaceable chuck you can drill any holes and materials.

In drilling mode, you can use the hammer drill as a mixer for mixing various building mixtures - from paint to light plaster and gypsum compounds. The great convenience is that the speed and direction of rotation are conveniently adjustable.

Drilling

The drilling mode is activated by moving the switch register to the middle position (you need to select the drill and hammer icon). Usually indicated by the sign of a drill and a hammer drawn on the body at the same time. Drilling is used for chiselling concrete and stone materials. You can not only make holes, but also lay channels for routing electrical and other cables in plaster or brick walls.

Since drilling comes in many different forms, engineers have developed numerous attachments to suit different drilling conditions. What they all have in common is the presence of a special shank that is compatible with the SDS+ chuck.

Hit

Impact mode is used for installation and dismantling work. On the mode switch it is indicated by a hammer icon. When operating in this mode, there is no rotation of the working shaft. Only translational movement of the tool occurs.

Reverse

The reverse function allows you to switch the direction of rotation of the chuck in different directions.

The reverse switch is at hand

Often, when drilling reinforced concrete structures, the drill rests on the reinforcement and enters into a clinch with it. In order to release it, a reverse switch is provided, which makes it possible to turn the drill in the opposite direction and continue drilling, bypassing the fittings. Usually the reverse button is located directly next to the start button of the unit.

The reverse mode turns the hammer drill into a screwdriver, which can be used to tighten and unscrew bolts, nuts and screws of any size and configuration.

Additional tool features

In addition to the above, the standard set of options in a modern hammer drill includes:

• ruler for determining the depth of the hole;
• lever for fixing the working position of the start button;
• safety clutch - stops the motor when the drill jams.

And also the design of each device includes the following systems:

• dust removal - an impeller on the engine with a system of dust removal channels;
• vibration damping - special springs between the body and the power unit;
• electronic regulation of operation and control of the condition of brushes on the electric motor commutator.

An important rule, failure to comply with which can lead to failure of the hammer drill. Switching modes should only be done when the tool is completely stopped.

Rules for safe use of the tool

It is permissible to use a hammer drill only with the use of personal protective equipment. These include safety glasses, headphones, gloves, and a respirator. Clothes must be without fluttering long-length elements. Hair is gathered under a headdress. Shoes should be dry, comfortable and non-slip, preferably with socks reinforced with metal plates.

Attention. It is prohibited to operate a hammer drill in positions with an unstable support point. Kickback when drilling can throw a person off balance, resulting in possible injury.

The noise level of a working tool fluctuates around 100–110 dB. If the surface being treated resonates (for example, a concrete wall), then the noise can reach 140–150 dB. Such sound load can lead to somatic diseases or mental disorders. Headphones or earplugs must be used.

How to insert/remove a drill or auger

To work with a hammer drill safely, you need to master a few simple skills. Required skills include installing and removing a drill, auger or any other attachment.

Installation of working tools

All rotary hammers are equipped with an SDS+ type chuck that does not require keys. Unlike jaw chucks, drill installation takes seconds:

1. Pull the chuck base down.
2. Insert the drill shank into the hole.
3. Release the base of the chuck, the spring will return the chuck to its place, the locking ball mechanism will securely clamp the drill in its metal embrace.
4. Check the reliability of the drill by pulling it towards you. The cutting tool must not be removed.

Installing a drill bit into a hammer drill takes seconds

A correctly installed drill should not protrude more than 1 cm from the socket when trying to pull it out by hand.

If a cam chuck is installed in the hammer drill, you can fasten the drill using the traditional method - by rotating the chuck body around its own axis until the thread is tightened.

Removing the working tool

To remove a drill or attachment after work or for replacement, you must:

1. Wait until the rotation of the chuck has completely stopped.
2. Pull the base of the chuck down as far as it will go.
3. Remove the drill from the chuck.
4. Release the chuck base.

Attention! The drill becomes very hot due to friction. Use gloves to avoid getting burned.

Rotary hammer equipment

To get a more complete picture of the wide capabilities of a rotary hammer, let’s take a brief excursion into the world of attachments that are used in the operation of this power tool. Main types of nozzles:

• Boers. “Drills” intended for drilling work on stone and concrete. The end is reinforced with a carbide head. The main purpose is to carry out installation work, fastening, wiring of communications.
• Crowns (tsifenbors). Device for cutting large diameter holes. If it is necessary to make a hole of great depth, special adapters are used with the crowns to allow the equipment to be extended to the required length. They are successfully used for processing ceramic tiles and in the installation of electrical equipment.
• Chisels. The most diverse category of hammer drill attachments. They vary in size, shape, length and width of the working surface. There are chisels in the shape of a peak, in the shape of a flat blade, as well as channel chisels (strobes), designed for gouging out channels in concrete or brick walls. An indispensable assistant during dismantling work (removing old tiles, dismantling screeds, adjusting and leveling brickwork before plastering).

Photo gallery: drills, crowns and chisels

Drills for drilling stone and concrete Crowns drill large holes Chisels cut concrete and chisel grooves

All types of attachments are installed in the SDS+ chuck in the same way; the principle of movable clamping balls is used for fixation. When installed correctly, the equipment can move freely along the longitudinal axis without falling out of the socket.

If the red LED on the control panel of the rotary hammer lights up, this means that the unit is operating with excess load on the engine. A technical inspection should be carried out and the cause of the overload should be eliminated.

Where else can we use a hammer drill?

The scope of application of a rotary hammer is not limited to working with concrete or stone. Wherever striking equipment is required, this universal device can be used.

We drive a pipe into the ground

Heavy hammer drills - weighing over 8 kg and impact up to 20 kJ, are used when driving an Abyssinian well. A galvanized pipe with a sharp tip is placed vertically and, using the hammer mode, driven into the ground. Of course, the diameter of such a pipe cannot be large (up to 1 inch). But this is enough to provide water for an average family. This method is used when installing water intake in places inaccessible to heavy drilling equipment.

In impact mode, the hammer drill hammers the pipe into the ground

Compacting soil in a greenhouse

The use of an attachment on a hammer drill for compacting soil has proven itself to be quite effective. It is a flat metal plate that is used to “trample” the ground. It is used on a local scale in the construction of greenhouses and arrangement of beds.

With a tamping attachment, the hammer drill is useful in the garden

Mixing cement mixtures

part of the hammer drill is a rotating chuck. This is enough to instruct a hammer drill to mix cement screed or tile adhesive. All you need is to purchase a mixer attachment with an SDS+ shank.

With a mixer attachment, a hammer drill mixes cement

To summarize, I would like to note that this article is for informational purposes only. Full information is provided in the instruction manual that each manufacturer provides with their products.

Tools produced by different companies have different performance indicators and characteristics, and have operating features. This must be taken into account when using equipment during operation.

Source: https://tehznatok.com/kak-polzovatsya/kak-pravilno-i-bezopasno-polzovatsya-perforatorom.html

How to sharpen a drill bit for concrete

Sharpening a drill at home is not difficult if you know how. The difficulty in this matter is maintaining the correct angles. After all, at home, as a rule, there are no special mandrels and conductors. There is only a sharpening machine. At least, we will proceed from such conditions.

Equipment requirements

The only equipment we have is an electric sharpening machine. But just because it exists does not mean that you can sharpen drills on it. It is necessary that the sharpening disk has the correct shape - that is, the shape of a cylinder with a smooth, not rounded edge. A convex edge with ground edges may result in incorrect sharpening.

If the disk is very worn out, it is better to replace it with a new one or correct it with a special CBN “pencil”, if you have one on the farm. It is very good if the disk is balanced and does not produce beats or vibrations (in fact, this is a mandatory norm). Only the peripheral surface of the disk is involved in the work, not its ends.

There is a temptation to use the flat side surface of the disk. But after several sharpenings it will lose its shape and fixing the stone after that will be much more difficult.

Sharpening auger for concrete

The hammer drill has a carbide plate as the cutting part, inserted into a slot at the working end and secured with solder. A normally sharpened drill has clear cutting edges with a sharpening angle of about 90 0 and an angle between the edges at the apex of 130–140 0.

With standard sharpening, the front edge of the cutting edge (directed in the direction of rotation) is inclined to the drill axis at an angle of 30 0, and the rear edge is inclined at an angle of 60 0. When manually sharpening, without special tools, you can focus on the entire, unworn part of the edges and reproduce their angles of inclination.

Sharpening process

We start sharpening from the front edges. We position the drill near the peripheral surface of the stone so that the cutting edge is parallel to the axis of the sharpener and directed upward, and the edge is parallel to the surface, and lightly press the drill against the sharpener for a short time.

A clearly visible mark remains on the metal, which shows whether its position was chosen correctly. The plane of the test section should coincide with the plane of the edge, and the spot of the section should be located in the center of its unworn part, without significant displacement.

Having found the correct position experimentally, remember it and begin sharpening.

Parallelism is not difficult to achieve if you bring the cutting edge to the surface of the stone and navigate along the gap left before contact.

You should not immediately achieve a sharp edge. Remember that you still have to grind down the back edge, and then the edge will “fall into place.”

First, the front edges are sharpened one after another. Then you need to check their symmetry. This is done visually, in the light, by placing the drill head near the edge of an object. The edge should be smooth or concave, but symmetrical. You can make a special template for testing. If there is asymmetry, a shorter edge is additionally ground down.

After this, the back edges of the edges are also ground down one by one, followed by checking for symmetry. The symmetry of the arrangement of the edges is also checked when viewed from the end, along the axis of the drill. When sharpened correctly, they are parallel, and between them there remains a bridge about 0.2–3 mm long, depending on the diameter.

If, as a result of processing, the cutting edges do not become sharp, there are visible roundings or cavities on them, the entire sharpening cycle must be repeated.

Add-ons

When sharpening, it is important not to overheat the tool. To cool, it is periodically dipped in water. A container of water should be kept near the machine. Do not press the drill against the sharpener for a long time. It is better to work with short touches, about 2–4 s, with breaks for the same amount of time. In this case, excess heat has time to be removed by the body of the drill and the risk of overheating the edge is reduced.

To work on soft materials without impact, for example on brick or tile, the cutting edges are brought “to zero”, without a jumper, and their sharpening angle is reduced to 30–35 0.

How to hold the drill while processing

Since, according to the conditions of the task, we do not have devices for precise positioning of drills, all hope is in our own hands. There are several simple techniques to achieve a “steady hand.”

It is best if, when sharpening a drill, you can rest it on a tool rest - a special “table” fixed in front of the sharpener. If you cannot achieve the desired position with direct support on the tool rest, you can hold the workpiece in your hands, but be sure to lean on it:

• fingers on the rest;
• with your wrist or hand on a workbench, on your knee, on any stable and conveniently located object;
• elbow or forearm on a workbench or knee.

As a last resort, you can simply press your elbows to your sides, forming a triangle with your arms and torso. But in any case, you need to find a way to hold the tool as tightly as possible with minimal effort.

When fixing the drill during operation, you should remember its position not only visually, but also by the sensations in your hands. Muscular, kinesthetic memory may be more accurate than visual control.

To maintain sharpening symmetry, it is useful to move to the second edge by turning the drill around the longitudinal axis, without changing the position of the hands and body. If you don't need a cooling break.

Sharpening a drill for metal

When sharpening drills for metal, only the back surfaces of the cutting edges are ground down. These surfaces have a rounded shape (with a drill diameter of less than 3 mm - flat) with a decrease relative to the edge of about 10 0. The cutting edges converge to the top of the drill at an angle of 116 - 120 0 (sharpening angle). For brass, copper, soft bronze, this angle is increased to 125–130 0, for aluminum - up to 140 0.

Sharpening

When sharpening, the drill is held with both hands. One near the sharpener, the other by the shank. The fingers of the hand closest to the sharpener (leading) rest on the rest. If it is not there, you need to find any support, as described above.

The drill is positioned at an angle to the working surface of the grindstone: 60 0 horizontally (half the angle at the apex) and about 10 0 vertically. The sharpened cutting edge is directed upward and located horizontally, parallel to the axis of the stone.

The position can be selected when the machine is turned off, according to the shape of the gaps between the edge and the sharpener when viewed from above, and between the sharpener and the back surface when viewed from the side.

To more accurately set the sharpening angle, you can draw a clearly visible line on the tool rest at the desired angle.

Source: https://MyTooling.ru/instrumenty/kak-zatochit-bur-po-betonu

Review of drills and drills for rotary hammers: selection rules, types and features of the tool

Looking at the photos of hammer drills, you can immediately note that they have significant differences. The conclusion is simple and accessible even to a beginner in construction: each of them is intended for a specific type of work. This means that it’s worth figuring out what consumables you’ll need in your particular case.

Drill and drill: what's the difference?

There are two main types of equipment for a rotary hammer. Drills are used in hammer drills. They make a hole with sharply sharpened ribs arranged in a spiral.

Drills of various diameters are used to pierce more durable foundations. Unlike simple rotational movements of the drill, this equipment also performs shock and vibration movements.

Drills are not suitable for use in a drill socket, and have their own design features:

• there is a landing shank at the end of the equipment,
• mounting grooves that fit only into the hammer drill socket,
• screw rod.

The latter feature allows the nozzle not only to make holes, but at the same time to remove the resulting debris out. The strength characteristics of the drill are added by a pobedite or diamond tip.

Pobedite or diamond tip: which is better?

Which drills are best to choose are determined depending on what the surface being treated is made of. The rod of any equipment is crowned with a tip or solder. It has edges of various configurations and hard alloys are used for its manufacture.

The quality of drilling, wear resistance of the drill, and the speed at which it punches holes are determined by soldering. Therefore, it is better not to use a concrete drill bit for a hammer drill if you plan to work with marble tiles or masonry. But the diamond tip can handle both heavy and reinforced concrete.

Pobedit brazings are divided into three strength classes:

• soft ones are inexpensive, they can choose low-grade concrete and brickwork for the hole;
• medium-strength ones are most often used in everyday life for minor repairs and amateur construction. Tips of this hardness cope well with concrete floors;
• High-strength types of drills can compete with their diamond counterparts, but not on reinforced concrete bases.

All pobedit tips (if used as intended) are designed for repeated use without sharpening.

What types of drills and drills are there?

If a home craftsman often needs to use a drilling tool, then it makes sense to look at sets of drills for a rotary hammer in the store. With such a purchase, the master will be ready to work with any surface.

The set contains nozzles with different types of shank and all shapes of the working part. Equipment can be divided into two broad categories: through and through.

The first ones choose the base material, gradually going deeper inside. The second type destroys (chips off, knocks off) an impressive part of the working surface. Within each group there is an additional breakdown into species.

Screw attachments

The category of the most used attachments is represented by auger drills. Their cutting edge is twisted into a spiral, and the tip is additionally hardened.

If you need to make a deep hole in a matter of seconds, these are the nozzles you use. They are purchased to hang a shelf, sconce or TV bracket.

Flat drills

To make a hole of small depth, flat drills are chosen. Their spiral has steeper turns, and drilling with such a nozzle will require more effort.

Another design feature is that flat nozzles are less likely to pick up construction debris; the hole will have to be cleaned out additionally.

Spiral drills

This type of consumable is indispensable when you need to make a long passage of large diameter. If you need to stretch a cable through load-bearing partitions from one room to another, choose a spiral drill.

Crowns

When working with concrete foundations, it is often necessary to use crowns. Such equipment is needed when laying electrical wiring and engineering systems.

To select a round hole of large diameter (for example, for a socket), purchase a spiral-shaped rod with an attachment. The crown has incisors along the edges, making it easy to penetrate into concrete.

Other types of drills

A channel drill will help you make a trench for electrical wiring. And in order to knock down uneven masonry or destroy the foundation, drills made in the form of a peak are used. If you need to chisel a wall, it is better to buy equipment that resembles a flat chisel in shape.

How are drills marked and what sizes of nozzles are there?

Before inserting a drill into a hammer drill, you should make sure that you purchased a consumable with the type of shank recommended by the manufacturer (that is, all holes and shapes match the mount). Professionals advise choosing shanks with SDS fastening.

It makes it possible to quickly change equipment and comes in 5 types:

• SDS plus is distinguished by the presence of 4 grooves with a diameter of 10 mm. The drills themselves can have a diameter of at least 0.4 cm and a maximum of 2.6 mm. They work great on concrete bases;
• SDS has 2 grooves, diameter 10mm;
• SDS max has five slots and is used for fastening powerful drills in rotary hammers for professional work. The diameter of the equipment increases from 2 to 8 cm;
• SDS top is distinguished by the presence of 4 grooves with a diameter of 1.4 cm. The size of the nozzles for this mount varies from 1.6 cm to 2.5 cm. This equipment is used in medium-weight hammer drills.
• The longitudinal projections in the SDS quick mount seem to have affected their popularity. They are rarely found on store shelves.

In addition to the type of fastening, the type of work to be done should influence the purchase of a particular consumable. Drill sizes for simple household work are limited to 6-10 mm.

If you need to screw an anchor bolt into the wall, you will need to take equipment of at least 2 and no more than 20 mm.

Another indicator of the drill size is the length of the working part and the main length. For private construction, where thick partitions are almost always erected, both a modest 10 cm nozzle and professional meter-long equipment may be required.

The walls in apartments are much thinner, and for standard repair work a 6 mm drill with a length of 110 mm will be sufficient.

To summarize, we can say that the choice of consumables for a hammer drill is made after assessing the scale and complexity of the upcoming work.

Photos of drills and hammer drills

We also recommend viewing:

Help the site, share on social networks

Source: https://instrumentgid.ru/obzor-burov-i-sverl-dlya-perforatora/

Is it possible to drill wood with a hammer drill - Construction, repair, arrangement

» Screwdriver » Is it possible to drill wood with a concrete drill

All photos from the article

When carrying out work on assembling various structures and repairing furniture and other products, it may be necessary to carry out such type of work as drilling wood. Despite the fact that this material is quite soft and pliable, it can not be processed with all devices; in this article we will look at the main equipment options and give recommendations for their correct use.

In the photo: drilling holes in wood is a simple process if you know all its features

Basic parameters to consider when choosing drills

If you have never carried out such work before and do not have experience in choosing devices, then just read a few simple recommendations to choose the best option. The most important factors are the following:

Drill diameter	This is the main indicator on which a lot depends, for example, if you are laying a pipe, then a hole that is too small will not allow you to carry out this type of work, and if you are screwing in self-tapping screws, then a diameter that is too large will not ensure proper fastening reliability. It is necessary to use exactly the option that suits best, this is very important, and you should not guess by eye
Length of the product	This indicator is also important, since, unlike metal, you need to work with elements of large thickness; in some work you have to make holes about half a meter deep, which places special demands on the strength and durability of the tool. Therefore, you need to determine this parameter in advance so that when choosing a specific option, the seller could only offer solutions that would definitely suit
Hole type	When working, sometimes it is necessary to drill elements not through, but to a certain depth; in this case, options are often used that have a flat tip rather than a cone-shaped one. Most often, this need arises when drilling holes for furniture hinges, when the thickness of the material is small and it is important not to spoil it
Features of wood	The hardness of different types of wood varies significantly, so the load on the equipment when drilling oak will be much higher than when working with pine. In addition, one should take into account the fact that the chips that form during operation clog the drill, which can lead to overheating, so it is important to control this indicator

Advice! You should not purchase the most budget options, there are many different products on the market, and the cost of many of them is simply negligible, but their reliability is so low, it makes sense to purchase them only if you need to make several holes; they are not suitable for serious work.

To drill holes for hinges, a special option is used - a Forstner drill, which has a special limiter, adjustable depending on the thickness of the material being processed.

Types of drills and features of their use

A wide variety of devices are used for work; we will look at the most common and popular ones and start with the simplest options that are suitable for small amounts of work; their price is low, so they are very popular among buyers.

Simple options

Here it is necessary to highlight the following types of drills:

• Very often you can hear the question whether it is possible to drill wood with a metal drill, everything is quite simple: metal is much harder than wood, so this type of device can be used for these purposes. But here you should remember several important nuances: the quality of work will be low, especially if the drill is poorly sharpened, it will tear the fibers on the side where it goes against the structure, also due to the fact that the turns become clogged with chips, the element may overheat and become deformed;

Don’t know the difference between drills for metal and wood? First of all, by the configuration of the tip, it is very easy to distinguish one option from another

For information: In the photo above on the left is a drill for wood, in the center is for metal and on the right is an option for concrete. As you can see, the tips of the products differ very much.

• Spiral options are in many ways similar to the above-described option in their design, but they have a different tip - it has a centering tip, which prevents the drill from moving from a given point and ensures high accuracy of work. They are suitable for simple work and have small diameters;

There are protrusions along the edges that cut the fibers, which allows you to avoid tearing the wood and ensures high quality work

• Feather versions got their name due to the fact that their working part is flat, the tip is similar to the one described above - it also has a protruding point and two protrusions along the edges for trimming fibers. The shank most often has a hexagonal shape for easy mounting in drills and other power tools. The diameter can vary from 8 to 60 mm, which allows you to make holes for a variety of purposes;

Feather options are most often sold in sets, but if necessary, they can also be purchased individually

Special products

Here we will look at those solutions that allow you to perform more complex work: drilling holes of large diameter, significant depth, etc.

The most popular types are:

• Screw drills for wood have a spiral shape, which is why they are often called spiral drills; they can have significant lengths: 300, 450 and 600 mm, which allows you to work with them on log houses and other objects with massive structures. In this case, it is very important to use a high-power power tool, since the load during work is large. The size range is also quite impressive and ranges from 10 to 52 mm;

Spiral tip provides excellent hole alignment

• Wood crowns or, as they are also called, ring drills are used in cases where it is necessary to make holes of large diameter; the diameter of the elements varies from 19 to 127 mm, while the depth is small and ranges from 22 to 64 mm. The work is done using a high-power power tool, especially if you work not with pure wood, but with chipboard. Most often, products are sold in a set;

Crowns are indispensable for large diameter holes

• A separate group of products consists of adjustable drills and so-called ballerinas, in both versions it is possible to adjust the drilling diameter, but in order to achieve good quality work, it is recommended to carry them out using a special machine so that the bed is stationary and the workpiece is securely fixed.

Important! Ballerinas are subject to special requirements regarding the quality of execution and fixation of elements; if there is even a slight backlash, the result of the work will be far from ideal.

It is impossible not to note one more nuance; the question often comes up on forums: is it possible to drill wood with a concrete drill? Here the answer is categorical - no, carbide brazing is intended for concrete, and wood begins to burn when such a device is used.

Recommendations for carrying out work

Of course, wood cannot be compared with metal or other solid materials, however, you need to know the basic nuances of the work:

• It is very important to set the tool level so that the hole does not turn out at an angle, especially for long options, which are much more difficult to control;
• Raw wood is more viscous, so when working with it, the equipment will heat up much faster; care should be taken to ensure that overheating does not occur;
• Sometimes you need to make holes of great depth, but there is a short version available, especially for spiral devices, in this case, in order not to spend extra money, because the cost is quite high, you can purchase a special extension;

  How to decorate a concrete staircase with wood yourself

Wood drill extension - a convenient device

• To work with a ballerina with your own hands, you should carefully read the recommendations given in the instructions for use. It is important to properly prepare the device for the most effective work;
• If you need to make a large number of holes and the accuracy of the work is very important, then a small wood drilling machine with the ability to fix workpieces would be an excellent solution;

A small machine will make the work process more convenient and better quality

Source: https://gildiyamebel.com/mozhno-li-perforatorom-sverlit-derevo/

Features of extracting a drill for a hammer drill

Drill bits are used to drill depressions or holes in any surface. The result is achieved by rotating the cutting edge around its axis. The tool also allows you to widen old holes if they are of the wrong diameter. Hammer drills can be of different designs and differ significantly from each other. They serve both to create a hole and to drill it.

Types of nozzles

The nozzles differ from each other in many ways. The most distinctive parameter is the shape of the working part. Drills are:

• Screw. These are the most popular drills that are usually used for work on the farm. The length of the instrument may vary, but as a rule, it is 27.5 centimeters. They can form holes in wood and other surfaces. The diameter of the spiral can vary from 0.1 millimeters to 7 centimeters.
• A feather drill resembles a feather in shape and is used to drill a large and deep hole. The cutting edge of the tool resembles a spatula in appearance. The drill can be solid, but can also be fixed using a boring bar or a specialized attachment.
• Single-sided cutting drill. It is used for drilling holes with particularly precise dimensions. The nozzle allows you to cut the surface on one side only. It has a special supporting surface, and the cutting edges are located on one side of the central axis.
• For deep drilling. This is an excellent option if the hole depth must exceed 5 drill diameters. The nozzle has two specialized channels through which the cooling emulsion is passed. They can be located both inside the drill and outside.

Drills may also differ in their manufacturing method. The small nozzle is made of solid metal or alloy. The material used is a certain type of steel, which is called high-speed steel.

For drills whose diameter exceeds 0.8 millimeters, welding is used. The main part is made of high-speed steel, and a carbon type of material is used for the shank . A nozzle with carbide inserts is used for drilling holes in very fragile objects and surfaces. Its structure is distinguished by the presence of certain grooves.

Drill coating

Coatings give each type of drill its own characteristics. Thanks to them, they can determine what type of materials they can drill. Types of coverage can be:

• Oxide. They are a black film, which belongs to the cheapest category. The coating allows you to protect the hammer from the adverse effects of rust and overheating. It also increases the service life of the nozzle.
• Drills coated with titanium-aluminum nitride are distinguished by their quality and reliability in use. The period of its use exceeds standard parameters by approximately 5 times.
• Ceramic coatings based on titanium nitrides are more highly durable. They allow you to increase the life of the item by more than 3 times. A characteristic feature is that the drill cannot be sharpened.
• Titanium carbonitride is also characterized by high strength. The quality parameters of the drill increase significantly.
• Coatings with diamond chips are used to work with surfaces made of stone or porcelain stoneware. They are durable and long lasting. It is thanks to these qualities that the cost of the nozzle increases significantly.

Source: https://pochini.guru/instrument/izvlechenie-sverla-dlya-perforatora

Is it possible to sharpen hammer drill bits?

» Other »

Question for experts: Is it possible to sharpen a rotary hammer drill at home? Do you need any special equipment for this?

Best regards, ALADIN

Best answers

Here, of course, they treated you kindly. Do not pay attention. The drills can be sharpened. The carbide plate there is most likely made of a VK 8 type alloy. (the same plates on turning cutters) The only caveat when sharpening is DON’T LET THE PLATE OVERHEAT. Literally after every second of sharpening (touching the abrasive wheel of the sharpening machine), immediately cool it in water.

If you overheat the carbide plate, sharpening will be a waste of time. (quickly becomes dull or chips when drilling)

The drill doesn’t sharpen - you have to be a complete fool. I usually after about 100/150 holes, I just throw it away. Mostly 6 mm, I don’t buy shit. This is HAVERA/RENBUR/HELER. mostly from themselves, at work they take 20 rubles from Armenians plasticine GUAMO

I also look at the butt of the drill, periodically, it can be flattened, or broken off in the trunk.

Don't you have anything to do? If you kill a good drill, then you won’t sharpen it, but if it’s a bad one, then it’s three rubles a bucket, go and buy it.

Why sharpen it, it’s broken, buy a new one.

Any tool can be sharpened, I don’t know what kind of drill you have, but drills can be sharpened, even simple ones, even pobedite ones, even diamond ones, on a simple electric sharpener, or even a beam on a machine where you can clearly adjust the angle.

The Diamond wheel sharpens perfectly without any problems. or Carbarund rpm 1500

I successfully sharpened drills on a regular household electric sharpener, with a regular sharpening wheel. Of course not quickly, but it is sharpening. Before sharpening, you need to check the width of the tip. If it is less than it was, the drill must be changed.

And it needs to be changed when the twisted spiral is worn down too much, to release dust (this slows down drilling). Naturally, only two-blade tips can be sharpened, and they are faster to work with, unlike four-blade ones.

But on an industrial scale, during construction, our drills are simply thrown away, replaced with new ones and not sharpened.

Sharpening. But why do that? Is the store far away?

sharpen for the sake of fifty dollars, yes, the budget is generally 0 rubles, I sympathize

answer

This video will help you figure it out

Answers from experts

I sharpen it, it drills normally after sharpening.

I don't sharpen. He hesitated to drill with a blunt one. Tomorrow I'll go sharpen)))

of course not, drill with a blunt

first go through a thinner drill, then the required diameter and you won’t need to sharpen anything

Why make your neighbors happy?

Drills are a must.
Borax (for a hammer drill) optional

He's probably victorious?
try

If it's too dull, sharpen it

A dull drill gets very hot and loses its hardness properties.
In general, when drilling, it must be periodically cooled without reaching a critical temperature. GOOD LUCK!

For me, one correct sharpening of a drill with pobedit tip is enough for 50 - 60 holes. Sharpening a drill takes about 20 - 30 seconds, I sharpen it using sandpaper.

Need to. On corundum (green) sandpaper.

It’s simply necessary, you just need to defeat the stone.

Necessarily.
All drills are sharpened.

Of course it is necessary. With a sharp drill, you will drill faster, and it will be easier for you and the hammer drill. There are, of course, jamshuts who can also drill with blunts, but you shouldn’t be like them. Sharpenes in minutes on a sharpener with a diamond wheel.

Conventional hammer drills become dull on all sides, losing diameter, so there’s no point in sharpening them; it’s easier to throw them away.

It is necessary to sharpen it, it turns out a more even hole, the drilling time is reduced, before each drilling I sharpen the Pobedit drill bits for the rotary hammer and impact drill with a diamond file.

Concrete drills with a carbide insert are initially blunt and there is no need to sharpen them, since this drill does not drill as much as it crushes concrete.

Burn, burn, my star!!!! I'm singing today. I’m not a defendant))))))))))

speed is less and piss there

buy really branded ones and when drilling, do not constantly press, but press and release, press and release, etc.

Well, miracles don't happen. Either a drill g.. but, or the concrete is not simple (reinforcement)

You may be bumping into rebar. Insert a nail into the hole and tap it. If the sound is metallic Or buy a drill with 3 cutters. A world-class thing but damn expensive!

Check the tool mode; in your case, the mode indicator should point to hammer + drill. If you work in screwdriver mode (drill only), the tips will burn because they are not cooled properly

way. Good luck!

try drilling with mat... usually helps

take diamonds and water them with water

Knowledgeable people say that it is impossible to cool in water using technology. Think for yourself why. You can't press too hard. The mode should be hammer + drill. After heating the drill, do not immediately drill a new hole. The armataur should be felt when you hit it. This requires a little experience.

And you need to feel it.
What kind of drill do you have that burns so often? Maybe these are not drills, but ordinary white drills with a pobedit insert? So this is China. Buy German ones, dark and not light, but not short, but long. They last a very long time. And don't press the trigger of the drill too hard.

The speed should not be high.

Invite a specialist and see how he does it

A chisel is the surest way

Buy normal drills and learn how to drill, don’t put as much pressure on him as you can.

Oh, I, too, once bought branded DeWalt drills, super duper laser sharpening, etc., and quickly broke them all. After that, I began to buy only inexpensive ones—Stayer drills, they last much longer.

I once went into the Khiltivsky store, as if I was on an excursion, everything is incredibly expensive, some kind of crap drill 6 mm costs 500 rubles, the consultant assured me that the drill is worthless to the reinforcement in the concrete and it burns through it, an interesting thing

My number eight was burning while I was drilling with a drill, changing the speed, force, and also tried it with obscenities. nothing helped until I took the puncher. so my advice is only one: TAKE A PERFORATOR!! ! helped me. Good luck!

I recommend that before drilling and after 3-5 holes, use a diamond file to straighten the cutting edge and jumper, the angle at the cutting edge is 80-85*. Cool more often. Hammer+drill mode. Approximately 300-600 rpm.

Andrey, the drill inserted into the hammer drill has free movement, so to speak, the hammer drill does not need to be pressed as when drilling with a drill. You just need to explain this to the drilling Kolya, otherwise he will add unforeseen expenses to your team and take up time (every time you run to the store for the drill). Nikolai is probably not a very strong fellow.

You need to make holes, not holes, and everything will be fine

Why branded ones? Our domestic ones are better and no problems

Source: https://dom-voprosov.ru/prochee/mozhno-li-tochit-bury-dlya-perforatora

How to properly sharpen an sds plus and sds max drill for concrete for a rotary hammer

A concrete drill is a specially designed drill whose cutting part is made of alloys based on tungsten and titanium. A drill of this design is designed to drill brick, concrete, stone and marble. A properly sharpened sds drill is the key to quick drilling and savings. The drill has two functions at the same time: it acts as a twist drill, breaking the material like a chisel.

:

Most often, concrete drills are a rod with a soldered tip made of carbide material.

Unlike a drill for concrete and stone, the sds plus drill is used when working with a hammer drill. The tool is affected not only by the force in the plane of rotation, but also by the impact force. The drill operates under very harsh conditions.

During operation, any cutting tool becomes dull, including drills and drills.
Tools heat up and drilling time increases. In a hammer drill, the drill also experiences shock load and the question arises of how to sharpen the drill for concrete.

A few tips during the drilling process to extend the life of the concrete drill:

1. Constantly monitor the heating of the tool, preventing it from overheating.

2.When drilling ceramic tiles, do not use the hammer drill mode.

3. Do not cool a heated drill or drill by sudden immersion in water.