What is the best way to treat arches against rust?

How to independently and cheaply treat arches against corrosion

With our winters, corrosion is very dangerous for some parts of the car. First of all, arches are most susceptible to it. Therefore, it is very important to be able to handle them correctly. The main thing is that this does not require a lot of time and money.

When additional processing is required

If you purchased a new car that just left the factory, then you don’t need to do anything. At the factory they are provided with all possible coatings and protections. True, factory processing does not contain inhibitors (they slow down the aging process and preserve the metal), but only protects the metal from mechanical damage.

But when buying a used car or if it has been in use for a long time (more than two years), the car should already be treated with special anti-corrosion coatings.

For each individual section of the machine, there is a different composition for treatment. However, regardless of type, all modern materials are fully compatible with factory processing and will not damage it. It is recommended to constantly treat the car with only one anti-corrosion compound and not change it unless absolutely necessary.

Treatment of arches with anti-corrosion coating

First you need to choose a treatment tool. They exist for any wallet from 100 rubles to several thousand. In general, they have proven themselves well:

• Mineral mastic boundary Peter 631 ~ 100 rub.
• Anti-corrosion rubber-bitumen coating RunWay RW6090 ~ 250 rub.
• Tar-based coating (anti-gravel) KANGAROO Under Coat ~500 rub.

After choosing the product, proceed to process the machine according to the instructions:

• Wash the car thoroughly and dry it;
• Carry out a detailed inspection of all parts (including hidden ones);
• Process the wheel arches.
• Pay special attention to any chips, irregularities, fasteners and bolts.

It is worth considering that the arches require 2-3 times more composition than other areas of the car. But there is no need to be zealous, because a layer that is too thick can begin to flake and fall off.

Give the machine about a day for the preparations to “harden”. It is not recommended to use the vehicle at this point, especially in rainy or snowy weather.

Since we process the car ourselves for greater savings, it is not recommended to neglect the washing and drying stage. After this, it is recommended to remove all “folk” products that cover car arches (bitumen layer, mastic or other materials).

It is important to understand that these materials will create a greenhouse effect between the metal and the anti-corrosion film, which will have a detrimental effect on the processing of the car and will lead to the peeling of the protective layer or, moreover, the factory coating, which will only result in high costs.

Tell us in the comments how you fight corrosion, perhaps this will be very useful to readers in the future. Also subscribe to our channel in ZEN .

Source: https://proautomasla.ru/stati/kak-obrabotat-arki-ot-korrozii.html

Wheel arch protection: how rear wheel arches are treated from noise and rust

Universal wheel arch protection is one of the least common services at service stations. It is used in the form of various types of coatings. This can be either plastic or aluminum linings or coating with liquid materials. As a result, the wheel arches transmit less noise into the car interior and are protected from mechanical damage. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages, which must be taken into account by every car owner before use.

Description of service

This service is not widely used at service stations due to low awareness among motorists about the importance of this procedure. Properly performed protection can strengthen and extend the service life of wheel arches. Russian roads do not always have an even and smooth surface, especially in winter. Often, as a result of treatment from snow and ice, mechanical parts in the form of stones and sand negatively affect and cause damage to the wheel arches of the car.

Rear wheel arch of a Renault Duster car

Car owners who choose to treat and protect their car can receive greater durability and protection against metal corrosion in various parts. This procedure is especially necessary for those drivers who do not travel outside of large cities, since the road surface there often has various chemical components.

Car manufacturers most often do not bother too much about all kinds of protection and treatment of certain body components.

If you look at what the wheel arches of Renault and Nissan cars are treated with at the factory, there are no special components there. Ordinary liquid coatings are used, which do not provide protection from extraneous noise and severe mechanical damage. Therefore, you should not count on strong protection from harmful influences in the factory equipment of the machine.

Experts have developed and implemented methods for protecting arches from harmful effects using various methods.

Most often, these are special flat pads made of various materials, which are attached to the site of impact and serve as a reflector of small and large particles.

Such particles can affect metal and, as a result of prolonged exposure, even cause irreparable damage. Few car owners currently understand this, which is why they are in no hurry to use the service.

A car without applying the procedure may already have the first signs of corrosion after 1.5-2 years. Cutting arches on a Niva for 29 wheels

Universal method

Universal wheel arch protection is used for various brands of cars, regardless of the country in which they were produced. At the moment, more and more automakers are moving to applying a universal coating to fender liners and openings while still on the assembly line. There is currently movement in several directions:

• Installation of standard fender liners.
• Special processing.

These are completely different methods of protection, but they have the same functionality, which is protection from mechanical stress, corrosion and noise. But despite this, the standard coating is made in the form of a rather light and fragile material, which either loses its properties or wears out within a few years.

What to process

Progress does not stand still, so at the moment several radically different coating methods have been developed. They differ in execution and are performed in the form:

• aluminum linings;
• plastic linings;
• applying a special coating;
• adhesive special protective film.

All of these methods are approximately the same in cost, but differ in quality.

It is necessary to consider each of the options and take into account their positive and negative sides.

Aluminum trims

In this case, a rather outdated method of securing special metal coatings is used that resist damage and the influence of harmful factors. If everything is clear with this, then it is important to outline the disadvantages of this method:

• The rubber seals used over time wore away the wheel opening coatings and contributed to corrosion.
• The surfaces on the sides were not covered with plates and had no protection.
• Aluminum is a soft metal and therefore breaks down quickly.
• Aluminum trims became damaged, worn out, and came off along with fasteners that damaged vehicle components.

Due to these factors, this method of protection was not widely used and was replaced by the use of plastic linings.

Plastic

Plastic protection of openings

Has gained quite high popularity at the present time.

Plastic protection parts are made from durable and environmentally friendly material that is suitable for various conditions.

The method has shown high efficiency in Russian conditions and has the following advantages:

• Excellent protection against exposure to small elements such as sand and salt, which are actively used as coatings against snow and ice.
• It has high wear resistance and a long service life without loss of basic qualities.
• High protection against rust.
• Can serve in conditions of low and high temperatures from -50 to +50 degrees Celsius.

Coating

It is also a fairly common method. Can protect against rust and mechanical damage from small and relatively large elements. But at the same time, some car owners complain about the low level of noise protection.

The material used is a liquid coating, which is produced by many manufacturers. After application and drying of the product, anti-corrosion treatment is used.

Film

The production of special protective film has currently gained high popularity. Not only the wheel arch openings are protected, but also many other components and parts of the car. It has a high thickness and does a good job of protecting against the impact of small particles. More often used for gluing to the hood or bumper, but thick film is also used for arches. The advantage of the method is the visual concealment of the transparent film.

Cutting arches on a Niva for 31 wheels

What is it for?

Coating the wheel arches is necessary to protect against the influence of mechanical particles that are used in winter, and corrosion that occurs due to the influence of chemical elements on machine components. In addition, it can be used as soundproofing for car interiors.

Cutting car arches

This is a method used to widen the wheel arches of a car. Often practiced on Nivas to install larger wheels and improve the off-road properties of the car. To carry out such a procedure, it is necessary to significantly change the design of the openings to be able to install large wheels that would not rub against the structural elements during movement.

The cutting of arches must be carried out by specialists at a station provided for this purpose.

The protection of wheel arches, although not widely used among motorists, can have a good effect on preserving the properties of the coating from mechanical damage and corrosion.

Source: https://kolesa.guru/shini/zasita-arok-koles.html

Anti-corrosion treatment

Any material undergoes a change in its structure due to combination with various aggressive substances. For metal, the aggressive substance is oxygen (O2), upon contact with which the structure of the metal is destroyed. They are now trying to protect car bodies as much as possible from the formation of corrosion centers, the so-called metal blooming.

articles:

Anti-corrosion treatment: what is it and what is it for?

To extend the service life and beautiful appearance of your favorite car (covered with stickerbombing), there are special means and technologies that should be done with your own hands or by specialists.

There are places in the car that corrode faster, rust and rot. This is, first of all, the bottom of the car. The bottom of the car is exposed to impacts from pebbles, gravel, sand, water, snow, and reagents. The primer and paint itself could protect against salt and reagents, but with mechanical impact, stones, the paint cracks and the aggressive environment penetrates the metal surface itself.

It happens even worse when the paint remains intact, but has peeled off. In this case, the formation of corrosion centers occurs much faster, since the surface is not ventilated and is constantly in a wet state.

Comparison of bodies of a new Russian car and a foreign car

Both new cars and used foreign or domestic cars are exposed to the above factors of corrosion formation. Domestic automobile factories do not treat their products with anti-corrosion agents.

Therefore, after purchasing a Russian car, it is imperative to treat the underbody, wing arches and other invisible areas that are significantly exposed to aggressive substances.

As for foreign cars, the body of foreign cars is processed by the plant itself; they have production facilities for this. Processing is carried out by anodizing and zinc coating.

Factory anticorrosive easily protects the car body for up to 5 years. Of course, it depends on what climate zone the car was operated in, humid near the sea or dry.

Source: https://autostuk.ru/antikorrozionnaya-obrabotka.html

What to do if the thresholds begin to rust

The appearance of rust on metal is considered a natural process. Car manufacturers do not always protect body elements with additional galvanization, so after a few years, drivers notice the first pockets of corrosion on the bottom, wheel arches and sills. Let's consider what to do first if the thresholds begin to rust in order to stop the process and restore the structure of the metal.

Causes of rust

Sills and arches are considered the most vulnerable parts of the body. Technologically, the parts provide protection of the bottom from primary corrosion. In addition, the sills prevent moisture from penetrating into the interior; in car frame structures they perform a strength function and provide the body with the necessary torsional rigidity.

The threshold is the first to absorb splashes, flying stones, and the aggressive effects of salt reagents in winter. There are several reasons why rust appears on a part.

1. Microcracks in paintwork. Moisture and acids penetrate under the paint and destroy the metal from the inside.
2. Lack of anti-corrosion protection. The production method of hot galvanizing remains the most reliable means of protecting metal from rust. Not all manufacturers use an expensive method. Volvo remains one of the few brands that galvanize the body of their cars in two or three layers; the first spots of corrosion on cars appear no earlier than after 9-12 years, provided that the metal was not destroyed in an accident.
3. Untimely treatment of the threshold with anti-gravel.
4. Systematic overnight stay of the car on the street in the rain and snow. Moisture destroys bare metal quite quickly. When producing a body, the manufacturer covers the metal with a protective polymer layer, which retains its properties for up to 1.5 years. If you do not monitor the condition of the body, then after the first winter on a new car you can see cracked paintwork and the beginning of rust.

Types of corrosion

Corrosion varies depending on the degree of damage to the metal. If rust appears on the sills, then the first thing to do is to conduct a full inspection of the body, not limited to diagnosing only the outer part and the visible surface of the wheel arch.

In 40% of cases, tinsmiths encounter a problem when a small area of ​​rusty metal is visible on the outer part of the threshold. When cutting out an element, the master discovers a completely rotted amplifier and the beginning of corrosion of the bottom. Corrosion is of three types depending on the degree of damage:

1. Primary. Rust covered part of the threshold but did not penetrate into the inner frame. The defect can be eliminated independently by stripping the metal.
2. Average. Rust has penetrated into the hidden cavities of the threshold, there are local through holes, the bottom is covered with primary rust. It is recommended to partially replace the damaged metal and completely thoroughly clean the body with anti-corrosion agents and install linings and mudguards.
3. Rotten threshold. Corrosion has destroyed more than 60% of the metal, there are large through holes, and the metal crumbles upon impact. It is necessary to completely change the part, check the condition of the jacks and side members, and, if necessary, carry out a full cycle of welding work.

Depending on which chemical element destroys the metal, corrosion is divided into:

• electrochemical;
• chemical.

In the first case, the aggressive reagents are salts, acids, and electrolytes, which, when in contact with the metal, cause an electric pulse, release hydrogen and start the oxidation process. The second option is the oxidation of metal with hydrogen and oxygen present in water.

Source: https://InfoKuzov.ru/uhod/rzhavye-porogi

How to remove rust from car fenders?

Car owners often face the problem of rust appearing on the surface. There may be several reasons:

• the car is placed in an unheated garage in winter;
• poor cleaning;
• violation of general vehicle maintenance rules.

Corrosion usually forms on the underwing surface or in the lower part of the car. You can remove it by ensuring proper car care by contacting a detailing center.

You can read more about how to remove rust on a car body in this article. You will learn how and with what to treat a car against corrosion with your own hands.

Rust on a car fender

Types of damage

Before removing corrosion damage, it is worth finding out its cause. There are five types of rust:

• cosmetic rust forms in areas where car parts come into contact with the body (lights, moldings and radiator grille);
• under-film occurs in the lower part of the coating and is a pronounced defect (the paint turns into bubbles);
• the through type is formed in the final stage of corrosion - holes appear that spoil the metal;
• pinpoint damage destroys the inner layer of the car's surface;
• Rust spots can cover most of the body and wing of a vehicle; it is recommended to remove errors at the stage of their formation.

Preparatory actions

You can remove rust on a car fender using improvised means or use the services of specialists. Before carrying out such an event, you should take care of preparing the car and purchasing the necessary tools:

• a grinding machine will allow you to recoup costs and help clean the vehicle body;
• sandblasting machine is the main tool in the fight against corrosion and its prerequisites. The car should be placed in a separate area to avoid damage to the garage or other buildings, since sand under the pressure of the device can fly in different directions;
• a situation with a limited budget involves the purchase of a metal brush.

Rust converters

The best chemicals to buy are: rust converter, degreaser, putty, and anti-corrosion primer.

To ensure safety, special gloves should be used when removing defects on a car.

Removal methods

The appearance of rust is analogous to a virus - if you ignore this problem, the car will soon deteriorate. Each vehicle has its own risk zone - the fender liner area is the first place for the formation of a corrosion defect. The main cause of problems in these places is considered to be excess moisture and oxygen. The underwing part of the arches collects a large amount of dust, which prevents the car from drying out. This causes the car to rust quickly.

Wheel arch corrosion

Carrying out metal restoration is a labor-intensive process, so before removing rust, you need to wash the car thoroughly. The next step is to remove the corrosion damage. There are several ways:

1. Remove rust using a sandblasting device. The equipment will thoroughly clean the wing, penetrating all metal sectors. The structure of the car coating will not be damaged and will retain its size in thickness. The device is directed to the damaged area and the corrosion is cleaned off with small sand particles.

   Removing rust using sandblasting

2. Grinding process with power tools. This method can be carried out using a special machine. Thanks to the rapid rotation of the disc, rust is removed without causing defects on the metal.

   Removing rust by sanding

3. Hand sanding. The problematic surface of the car is treated with a special brush or sandpaper. Craftsmen can use abrasive discs. This method is economical, but requires a lot of physical effort. Using a brush, the car is cleaned in hard-to-reach areas.

   Sandpaper for removing rust

4. Chemical treatment of transport parts. You can start this procedure with the help of the necessary chemicals. The best option is a rust converter, which is applied with a brush or spray can. After these steps, the product should be absorbed into the surface of the car, then it is simply washed off with water.

General tips for eliminating corrosion

The process of removing car rust in problem areas requires attentiveness from the owner. Basic Rules:

• Sanding should be done in small areas using regular sandpaper. This requirement will avoid damage to the paint surface;
• Anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom and other most vulnerable places of the car is periodically carried out;
• You can restore a car’s coating using products that have a good reputation and seek help from trusted specialists;Anti-corrosion agent
• Any chips that occur in the car body area are immediately painted over. This will prevent rust from spreading around the entire perimeter;
• Diagnostics of the underbody and hard-to-reach places in the car should occur twice a month.

Based on the standards of vehicle operation, the owner can avoid the process of corrosion and other machine malfunctions.

Source: https://okuzove.ru/remont-kuzova/kak-ubrat-rzhavchinu-s-krylev-avtomobilya.html

How to remove rust from car wheel arches

Often, owners of used cars, especially after accidents, are faced with the problem of rust on the car wheel arches. Read on to learn why it appears, how to get rid of it using proven methods, and how to prevent it from appearing.

Why does rust appear on car wheel arches?

Corrosion is a product of steel oxidation that can ruin the appearance of an expensive car. In addition, it can affect the service life, since corrosion gradually and irreversibly destroys the metal.

Often its appearance is associated with the car owner’s careless attitude towards his vehicle, that is, with the lack of regular maintenance and removal of rust from the vehicle body.

Its appearance is also associated with exposure to salt and reagents, bad weather conditions and accidents. Salt with reagents, coming into contact with water, corrodes the metal. Snow and rain have the same effect if the car is constantly on the street.

To prevent corrosion on the wheel arches and the entire car, you need to process the body in a timely manner and remove rust. Be sure to store the car in a ventilated, warm garage.

Try to treat your car with care. In case of an accident, do not leave scratches without finishing. Be sure to replace parts and paint them with professional help.

How to remove rust?

The owner can get rid of corrosion on the body and wheel arches with professional help or independently using folk remedies.

1. In the first case, rust removal occurs through mechanical properties , chemical treatment and the application of a new paint coating.
2. In the second case, corrosion is removed using ammonium , caustic soda, formaldehyde, sulfuric acid, oxalic acid, sweet carbonated drink and kerosene.

It is worth pointing out that folk remedies are not 100% effective and many of them may be unsafe. Nowadays there are also professional products called corrosion converters. They most safely and effectively help cope with the problem at any stage.

The products may consist of phosphoric acid and hydroxycarboxylic acid, anti-corrosion inhibitor, monophosphate zinc and alkali. Before using any of the products, you should carefully read the instructions or ask for advice from a specialist.

There is an opportunity to ruin the arches even more, aggravating the situation.

In general, rust appears as a result of careless handling of the car by the car owner, exposure to saline solutions and prolonged exposure of the car to rain and snow. You can remove rust from car wheel arches with professional help and with the help of folk remedies - ammonium, caustic soda, formaldehyde, sulfuric acid, oxalic acid, sweet carbonated drink and kerosene.

Source: https://the-robot.ru/remont-avto/kak-ubrat-rzhavchinu-s-kolesnyh-arok-avtomobilya/

How to do anti-corrosion treatment on a car

Anti-corrosion compounds and sound-proofing mastics applied at manufacturing plants protect wheel arches, trunk, engine compartment and other surfaces of the car, primarily from mechanical damage. To preserve the attractive appearance of the car and increase the resistance of its individual elements to rust, they carry out independent anti-corrosion treatment.

In the photo - anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom

What to process?

Modern manufacturers offer a huge variety of materials that differ in composition, purpose and application features:

• special compounds for the bottom; • mastics; • anti-gravel coatings; • varnishes; • enamels; • preservatives for hidden cavities;

• soils.

Anticorrosion kit

Important : no treatment can restore a completely rotten metal frame! Make sure that the car is at least in satisfactory condition before purchasing the necessary materials.

We treat the bottom with anticorrosive

This category of materials includes mastics, as well as special compounds for the underbody of a car, containing aluminum (crushed to a powder) and corrosion inhibitors. Another useful function of underbody mastics is the ability to improve the vibration-acoustic parameters of the body. In this regard, of great interest are inexpensive domestic bitumen mastics filled with crumb rubber, which makes the “lower armor” of the vehicle much thicker.

Treated the bottom with BPM-1 mastic

Before you begin, make sure the bottom is 100% illuminated and has easy access. After this, use neat, even layers to treat the entire surface, including bolted joints, ball joints, technical seams, and suspension parts.

We treat wheel arches with anticorrosive

A peculiarity of the arches is that their surface, much larger than the bottom, suffers from abrasive wear due to snow, ice, small stones, sand, and dirt, which continuously fall from the spinning wheels directly onto the arches. The problem can be effectively solved by using a liquid locker - a durable material applied to the surface in two or three layers.

Treatment with liquid locker

Very often, liquid locker turns out to be a priority option compared to installing special plastic protection (“fender liners”). In addition, wheel arches can also be treated with underbody compounds (2 layers), using a wide brush.

We treat hidden cavities with anticorrosive

Almost every car has a number of hidden cavities, access to which is possible only through technological openings: floor reinforcements, pillars, side members.

All these places can be treated with the help of preservatives for hard-to-reach cavities - liquid low-viscosity materials containing corrosion inhibitors. The most popular among Russian car owners is the domestic composition "Movil".

In consistency, all preservatives resemble machine oil and, after application, form a half-dried film on the treated surfaces. Due to their consistency, such products not only fill all joints, but also effectively displace moisture from the surface of metal parts.

Rust Stop is the most hygroscopic.

Treated the bottom of the luggage compartment with Movil

Preparations for anti-corrosion treatment are sold in any packaging, but the most popular option is still aerosols.

We treat other body elements with anticorrosion

The use of special compounds requires such car body elements as the hood, fenders, and the inner surface of the trunk. Rubber-bitumen or bitumen-rubber mastic is suitable for them, which reliably protects against gravel impacts and does not lose its properties even at very low temperatures (down to -600C). The most popular products are ANTIrust, Hardwax, Waxoyl, VELCOR, Masterwax, Dinitrol, RunWay.

Each surface treatment has its own characteristics. So, when working with the trunk, for example, it should be taken into account that the protective compound is applied to the cross member of the rear window frame only from the inside.

How to Apply Anti-Corrosion Coating: The Ultimate Step-by-Step Guide

1. The first stage is preparing the car for anti-corrosion treatment. To do this, you need to remove everything that may interfere with comfortable work with the outer surface of the body (noise insulation, rubber mat, insulation, etc.), cover the pedals and the floor with newspaper.

2. Washing. It is important to clean the treated elements from dirt as thoroughly as possible, otherwise the anti-corrosion coatings simply will not be able to properly adhere to them.

Washed the arch

3. Drying is a mandatory operation, performed by blowing with warm compressed air immediately after washing. None of the protective compounds are able to adhere to wet surfaces.

4. Degreasing surfaces. It is recommended to carry out this procedure using special compounds immediately before applying the substance.

5. Application of a protective agent. Easily accessible places, such as arches and bottoms, are processed manually using a spatula, brush, rollers and other similar devices. The number of layers and the temperature at which application is allowed are usually indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging of the anti-corrosion agent. Working with hidden cavities is carried out using tools such as a spray gun or a can of protective compound.

We processed the arch of a VAZ 2114. Photo - owner from Drive2.ru

Before applying some materials, for example, domestic mastics based on bitumen and rubber, the corresponding surface must also be additionally primed.

After carrying out all the manipulations, it is advisable not to use the machine for the next 24 hours to allow the coating to set properly.

How often should the protective composition be applied?

The service life of a layer of anti-corrosion material directly depends on its quality, but, on average, it is 1-3 years. If the car has been in an accident, the body has recently been repaired or some of its parts have been replaced, it is also recommended to carry out anti-corrosion treatment.

How soon the process needs to be repeated depends on how well the processing was performed, what materials were used, and whether all rules and dosages were followed according to the instructions.

Most products are non-toxic and do not emit fumes harmful to the body, but when working with them you still need to take precautions and reliably protect the mucous membranes from the effects of chemicals.

How much does anticorrosive treatment cost?

In specialized technical centers, the price of applying a special composition is usually within 5,000 rubles. However, it can be higher, for example, if complex processing of all elements is required and expensive protective equipment made in European or American production will be used.

You can save a lot by performing all the relevant procedures yourself - fortunately, they do not pose any particular difficulty for motorists. In this case, all costs will be associated with the purchase of anti-corrosion compounds and tools for work, which will cost at least 2 times less than at a service station.

Source: https://avtoexperts.ru/article/kak-sdelat-antikorrozijnuyu-obrabotku-avtomobilya/

Anti-corrosion treatment of a car in a garage

In order to preserve the appearance of the car and make it resistant to corrosion, it is necessary to periodically do anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom and arches with your own hands.

Factory mastics, which are applied to the bottom and wheel arches to absorb road noise, slightly protect the metal from adverse influences. In addition, the composition is usually applied before painting, after covering all studs and threaded holes with special stickers. During assembly, they are all removed, and sections of the bottom are exposed, and the metal becomes vulnerable to mechanical stress. In this regard, the best anticorrosive agent is the one you make yourself.

How to prepare the car?

Protecting the bottom of the car from corrosion plays a particularly important role in winter. Harsh weather conditions and the presence of salt and chemical reagents on the roads are sure to remind us of themselves with the onset of spring. You not only have to remove rust from the bottom of the car, but sometimes you also have to boil certain areas.

Arch processing

Before applying anti-corrosion protection to the underbody of the car, you need to clean off the rust. You should start with the nearest car wash, where your car will be washed thoroughly. Then the vehicle should be driven into the garage or left in the yard if you plan to work outside. In any case, you will need an overpass, pit or lift.

To clean corrosion you will need brushes of different diameters, a grinder or a simple drill. First you need to remove the fender liners, as rust often begins to form on the side members.

After thorough cleaning, before applying the anti-corrosive agent yourself, the bottom must be treated with a rust converter. It is better to buy zinc-based formulations. After covering all surfaces under the car with this product, leave everything for several hours, or better yet, for a day. After this, you need to start mixing the anticorrosion agent.

What will you need for the job?

To protect the underbody of a car from corrosion with anticorrosion, you can use various preservatives for hidden cavities, anti-gravel coatings, compounds for the underbody, materials for arches and the inner parts of the wings. All of them are needed to prevent premature rust formation.

For the bottom

Anticorrosive for the bottom

The price of anti-corrosion agent for the bottom of a car is not very high, but these compounds form an elastic, high-strength and thick enough film to protect surfaces from negative influences. The materials must be applied to a cleaned and pre-primed surface. Anticorrosive contains special fillers, for example, tiny aluminum powder. Also, the composition always contains corrosion inhibitors that slow down its formation.

At home, anticorrosive coating can be applied with an ordinary brush, and as for domestically produced materials, the most affordable and widespread are bitumen mastics with rubber crumbs.

Another task that mastic copes with is increasing the vibroacoustic characteristics of the body. This is what crumb rubber is designed for.

Anticorrosive for arches

Anticorrosive for arches

Special anti-corrosion compounds for arches have the same properties as the above-mentioned materials, but there is one feature. Arches have less protection against abrasive wear than the bottom. They are constantly exposed to snow, wet mud, sand, ice and stones that fly out of the wheels and hit the surfaces of the arches. If you do not protect them, corrosion will inevitably begin to form within a few years, even on a new car.

You can insert plastic fender liners into the wheel arches, which will solve the problem, but you can also purchase a special Liquid Locker, which is a high-strength elastic material. When applied to the surface of the arches, a layer is formed that protects the metal from abrasive wear.

If you wish, you can apply an anti-corrosion agent for the bottom to the inner parts of the wheel arches yourself, but do it in two layers. Similar to underbody compounds, arch materials contain corrosion inhibitors.

For hidden cavities

Every car has numerous hidden cavities:

• racks;
• thresholds;
• spars;
• trunk reinforcements;
• floor enhancers.

Rust Stop

They can only be accessed through special technological openings. So-called cavity preservatives are low-viscosity liquid materials, similar to motor oil, containing corrosion inhibitors. They form a semi-drying film on the walls of cavities, have a unique penetrating ability and are able to displace moisture from metal surfaces.

The most famous domestic preservative for cavities is Movil. It has been produced for several decades and still remains relevant. The non-ecological composition provides reliable anti-corrosion protection for the bottom of the car.

We also do not recommend buying products from the Waxoil company, since it contains only 13 percent solids, and the remaining 87 are solvents.

The absence of odor indicates a high degree of purification of the solvents, but this is not the most important thing if you want to make anti-corrosion bottoms with your own hands.
There is also a composition of the Rust Stop brand, which is created on the basis of mineral oil.

It is very hygroscopic, so it is better to treat hidden cavities with it at least once every two years, otherwise you will get the opposite effect: excess moisture will stimulate the development of rust.

How to apply anticorrosive?

Treating wheel arches and the bottom of a car with anti-corrosive agent yourself is a fairly common service in specialized service centers, but you can do it yourself using our instructions. It is necessary to prepare for work and process the bottom in an inspection pit or lift.

To begin with, the fender liners are removed and hidden surfaces are processed:

• crossbars;
• thresholds;
• internal cavities of side members;
• cavities in brackets;
• amplifiers, etc.

All welds must be carefully processed. When spraying the anticorrosive agent, lay it in an even layer on the existing coating.

Anticorrosive spraying

There are certain subtleties when processing the engine compartment or hood. Do not allow the product to come into contact with the generator, drive belts or radiator honeycombs. The composition will cause belts to slip, worsen engine cooling, or damage the battery charging unit.

Under the hood, you need to process all the welds, and also don’t forget to cover the area under the battery and the surfaces around the headlights. Pay special attention to the following parts and elements in the engine compartment:

• front side members;
• suspension boosters;
• clutch cylinder;
• motor shield;
• mounting location for the brake booster;
• all fasteners.

It is important to treat the entire hood along the welds and inside the amplifiers.

After this, you can go to the luggage compartment. Here you need to concentrate on the welds, and use various attachments to get to hard-to-reach places. Apply a thin layer of material to the luggage compartment floor and be sure to cover the back of the taillights to prevent oxidation of the contacts.

Before treating the interior, you need to carefully inspect all the places where you plan to apply the composition. Initially, it is necessary to provide convenient access to all surfaces so that you do not have to stop while working. Pay special attention to box-shaped elements that experience high loads - attachment points for brackets and seat crossbars. It is better to process them from the inside, too, using technological holes.

Then you can begin processing the doorway along all the seams and seals from below. Provide access to surfaces in advance by removing the threshold trim. You will see special technological holes through which hidden cavities can be filled. Proceed with caution when spraying the anticorrosive agent yourself. Do not spray the composition so as not to stain the interior - it will be very difficult to clean.

When processing doors, pay special attention to the mechanisms that are hidden in the door cavities. In general, modern do-it-yourself anticorrosive compositions for the underbody of a car will not harm electrical contacts. You can only ruin something mechanically by inserting a nozzle into one or another hidden cavity. If the internal parts of the door are overloaded with additional elements, you can use the technological holes in the lower part.

Source: http://Driving24.ru/obrabotka-avtomobilya-antikorom-svoimi-rukami/

Anti-gravel treatment of wheel arches and car bottom

When a car moves on the road, the body is subjected to mechanical stress, it gets damaged from dust, dirt and gravel, and the metal begins to corrode.

On many car models from the factory, the underbody and wheel arches, as a rule, are not sufficiently processed, and therefore they require additional protection.

Anti-corrosion treatment of the underbody of a car is often done by car owners with their own hands, although such work is also carried out in car services and service stations. What products are available for anti-corrosion treatment and how to do it yourself will be discussed in this article.

Why is anti-corrosion treatment needed?

Anti-corrosion treatment is mainly carried out on the outside of the body; it performs the main functions:

• protects the body from damage and corrosion, extends the service life of body metal;
• improves noise insulation properties - after treatment, noise penetrates less into the car interior.

From the factory, the bottom is coated with a special compound with anti-corrosive agent, but usually the layer of protection is quite thin. On prestigious foreign cars, the protective coating layer is thicker, but on Russian cars and budget foreign cars, manufacturers do not bother much with body treatment. For this reason, car bodies rust quickly, unless, of course, they are additionally treated with a special compound.

Anti-corrosion treatment (AO) is recommended to be carried out once every two to three years; on a new car it is advisable to do it immediately, while there is still no dirt on the bottom and wheel arches. Among the popular compositions are the following materials for processing:

• Dinitrol;
• Prim Anti-Noise;
• Textile;
• Rust Stop;
• Nova;
• Crown;
• Movil;
• LIQUI MOLY.

There is a wide range of products on the market, and this is not the entire list of anticorrosive products produced by the industry. Among domestic materials, bitumen mastic is the most popular; it is relatively cheap and has all the necessary properties to protect the body.

Do-it-yourself anticorrosive treatment of the underbody of a car

The price of anti-corrosion treatment in car services can vary significantly, but in any case it cannot be called low. The cost of coating the underbody with anti-corrosive agent depends on the car model and the pricing policy of the company itself that provides this type of service.

Anti-gravel treatment may additionally include treatment of hidden cavities and wheel arches; in some cases, at the request of the customer, only the bottom is treated.

On average, the cost of services ranges from 4,000 to 13,000 rubles, depending on the make of the car; making “anti-corrosion” with Tektil will cost more than with Prim Anti-Noise.

Since the prices for services are not too cheap, some car owners treat the underbody of the car with anti-corrosion agent with their own hands. In general, the work is not difficult, the main drawback here is that this procedure is quite dirty.

Anticorrosive coating is applied to the underbody and wheel arches in two ways:

• spreading (brush);
• spraying from a spray bottle or can.

First, let's look at how the body is treated with mastic using a brush. We proceed as follows:

• put the car on a pit or a lift;
• remove the fender liners if they are installed;
• thoroughly wash the bottom and wheel arches from dirt;
• if there are traces of corrosion, they must be eliminated - weld the damaged areas, thoroughly clean the metal;
• degrease the surface to be treated;
• if the mastic is too thick, you can add a little water to it;
• stir the mastic to treat the bottom;

• Apply the composition to the surface to be treated with a brush.

You can also use a roller to process flat areas. The mastic should be applied in two layers (or three), then, according to the manufacturer's instructions, it must be allowed to dry for 20 hours. But if it’s not raining or snowing outside, the car can start driving within two hours.

Do-it-yourself anti-corrosion spray treatment

For “anti-corrosion”, instead of a brush and roller, you can use a spray bottle; in this way, coating the underbody with the composition is faster. But this method also has its disadvantages:

• mastic flies in all directions, so it is necessary to carefully cover the paintwork of the car and the walls of the room;
• Spraying in the air creates an unpleasant odor; some anticorrosion agents also contain harmful substances; when working with them, you should use a respirator.

The main advantage of applying an anti-gravel coating by spraying is that with this method the entire surface, including hidden cavities, is covered with the composition, and the treatment is of higher quality. The principle of performing the work here is the same as when applying anti-gravel with a brush - you must first prepare the body, and after completing the procedure, allow the mastic (anti-corrosive) to dry.

Treating the body with anti-corrosion spray from a can

The anti-corrosion composition is often sold in aerosol cans with a sprayer. As a rule, the bottle capacity averages from 500 to 1000 ml; for example, similar products are supplied by Liqui Moly. Spraying from a can is convenient if you need to treat a surface in a hard-to-reach place, as well as do local treatment. Using bottles to treat the entire bottom is not very convenient - the work takes a lot of time.

Anti-corrosion treatment of wheel arches

Anti-corrosion treatment of wheel arches protects body parts from crushed stone and gravel. The anti-corrosion composition protects the metal from corrosion; another tangible benefit from “anti-corrosion” is the reduction of road noise inside the car.

We carry out anti-gravel treatment of wheel arches in the following order:

• Place the car on a level surface:
• dismantle the wheel on the side where the anticorrosive coating will be applied first;
• The surface to be treated is thoroughly washed and then degreased. It’s very good if you have a Karcher - with the help of a pressure washer the metal is washed almost perfectly;
• sometimes dirt particles still remain on the iron, so it is possible to thoroughly wash the arches using auto chemicals;
• take Cleanol liquid to clean the engine, dilute it half with water (in a one to one ratio), stir thoroughly;
• We take a one and a half liter plastic bottle, fill it with cleaner, install a washing gun on top, and pour the solution over the wheel arch;
• We wait 5-10 minutes (it is necessary for the solution to corrode the remaining dirt), then we also wash off the cleaner with water using Karcher;
• Thoroughly dry the surface to be treated - to make it dry faster, it is advisable to use a heat gun;

There are two types of cans with anti-gravel - specially with a lid for a gun or with a sprinkler. If you have a compressor and all the corresponding equipment, we use the first type of cans. To do this, we break through the top of the lid of the container, install the gun and cover the surface with an anti-corrosion compound. Before doing this, do not forget to cover the outside of the body with cellophane or thick paper - it is necessary to avoid the “anti-corrosion” getting on the paintwork of the car.

Anticorrosive Body 950 very effectively protects wheel arches from damage; it is sold both in aerosol cans and in containers designed for spraying the composition using a compressor.

First, you need to adjust the gun so that the air supply is maximum and the anti-corrosion compound is minimal. This application will be convenient for covering all cracks and pores on the metal of the wheel arch with anti-gravel. Then we gradually increase the flow of Body 950 and cover the treated surface with the composition a second time.

Body anti-gravel for treating the body using a compressor is sold in liter jars; usually, two bottles are required to cover the four wheel arches of a passenger car. The anti-corrosion composition can be white, gray or black, but the color does not play a fundamental role - you can treat the car with any composition.

Treatment of the underbody of the car inside the cabin

Car owners often treat the body inside the cabin with anti-gravel; usually the treatment is done along the way, during body repairs. During the operation of the car, the moisture accumulated in the cabin seeps through the carpet, and the floor begins to rust from the inside. Most often, the floor rots in the place where the front seats are attached, or more precisely, where the seat brackets are attached.

In order to treat the bottom with “anti-corrosion” from the inside, it is necessary to disassemble the interior:

• remove the front seats and rear sofa;
• remove rugs;
• completely remove the carpet.

After disassembly, you should clean the floor from dirt and dust (vacuum), wash the bottom thoroughly, then degrease it. We protect all rust and weld the metal if necessary.

In principle, it is possible to treat the floor with anti-corrosion by spraying, but it is extremely undesirable to use this method in the cabin - it is very easy to stain plastic elements and the instrument panel with anti-gravel. Most often, the floor is treated by applying bitumen mastic with a brush. It is also inconvenient to work with a roller here - the surface of the bottom is mostly textured (uneven).

After applying bitumen mastic, the floor surface can be painted on the outside with paint in the color of the body, but before painting, you must allow time for the bitumen to dry. It usually takes a day for the bitumen mastic to dry thoroughly. After all the processing, we assemble the interior - lay the carpet, put the seats in place.

Source: https://avtobrands.ru/obrabotka-antigraviem-kolesnyh-arok-i-dnishha-avtomobilya/

How to treat wheel arches from rust

Not all car enthusiasts, when purchasing a car, burden themselves with taking measures to protect its body from corrosion. Such a decision is justified if the car is purchased for two to three years, after which it is sold. A completely different approach is needed when planning for a long period of operation of the vehicle; in this case, the owner is obliged to take all measures to prevent the appearance of rust on the structural surfaces of the car.

Why do you need anti-corrosion treatment of wheel arches and the underbody of a car: arguments and facts

Practical studies show that almost all car models are susceptible to corrosion processes. Even manufacturers who make significant investments in basic body protection are not always able to significantly delay the appearance of rust.

Operating conditions only aggravate the overall picture, especially in megacities. Therefore, anti-corrosion treatment of the underbody of the car is mandatory, especially if you carefully consider the following facts:

• The bottom of the car is subjected to regular mechanical impact from gravel, stones and other objects flying from under the wheels.
• Ice, snow, salt mixture and other chemically aggressive substances, falling on the lower plane and arches of the body, actively destroy their protective layer. The result of this impact is chips, microcracks and paint peeling, through which water begins to come into contact with the metal, causing corrosion.
• The domestic auto industry is not particularly concerned about protecting its products from corrosion, so its buyers must first carry out special body treatment.
• Foreign automakers provide anti-corrosion treatment to the underbody and cavities of the car in the form of anodizing and galvanizing. This approach allows the owner not to think about corrosion for the next 5-7 years. However, used foreign cars need to be carefully examined on an overpass - most likely, measures will have to be taken to restore rust protection.
• During operation, a phenomenon called metal fatigue occurs. The strength of the body decreases, and corrosion only accelerates this process.

Finally, even without an economic education, it is easy to calculate that body repairs will cost an amount comparable to the price of a used car. We draw a logical conclusion - bringing the design of a machine to the stage of a colander is short-sighted and uneconomical.

Briefly about materials for anticorrosion

Based on the composition of the mixture, materials are divided into two types: wax and bitumen. Some motorists mistakenly believe that the Movil preservative is suitable for protecting the bottom from rust, but it will only help when treating closed structural elements that are not so easy to reach with a brush.

You can process the open external planes of the machine using:

• bitumen mastic based on synthetic oil and bitumen, applied to the metal in a layer 0.25-0.45 mm thick;
• Rubber-based PVC mastic is durable and highly durable, but it is almost impossible to implement such a coating at home - special technological conditions are required;
• liquid plastic is weakly resistant to mechanical stress, for this reason it is used on top of the main anti-corrosive coating as an additional cosmetic layer.

For high-quality anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom and wheel arches of a car, experts recommend using rubber-bitumen mastic. In addition to protecting the body from corrosion, it also provides sound insulation and anti-gravel protection. Mastics of this type are sold under the brands Dinitron, Waxoyl, Dody and Movil.

Source: https://litezona.ru/chem-obrabotat-arki-koles-ot-rzhavchiny/

What is the best anti-corrosion agent to treat a car? Theory and review of specific materials

The modern market of materials for car body protection offers car enthusiasts a huge selection of various products that help fight corrosion and protect the metal from mechanical damage. Such materials are divided into several categories depending on the type of application and, ending with the composition from which they are made. In this article we will try to figure out which anticorrosive agent for a car is best to choose depending on the task at hand.

This category of surfaces includes: the internal parts of doors, side members, bottoms, door pillars, etc. As you can see, all these areas are hidden from mechanical influences by the interior trim. Therefore, a number of requirements are imposed on the choice of anticorrosion agent for such body parts.

1. Do not corrode the paint coating applied to the part.
2. High adhesion rate.
3. Possibility of dense filling of all cracks, chips and scratches.
4. Homogeneous material structure.
5. Protect the surface from moisture and electrolytes.
6. Preserve heavily damaged areas with rust on the body, stopping the process of complete destruction. But in fact, it is better to clean everything out, or weld new pieces of metal.
7. Displacement of moisture during application to the surface.

Anticorrosives of this type are produced either on an oil or paraffin basis. Basically, these are non-drying products that provide a high degree of protection, including at the junctions of parts and various crevices.

If a non-elastic material is used, it may crack, and the process of rust development due to air entry will continue again. By applying, for example, a non-drying oil-based composition, you can easily fill all surface bends and crevices.

But such materials also have a disadvantage - they are not resistant to mechanical stress, and therefore are used exclusively for internal surfaces.

Paraffin-based, so-called wax compositions, also have both pros and cons. One of the advantages is that they have good adhesion, both with bare metal and with painted areas of the body. They form a waxy film on the surface, which retains its elastic state for quite a long time. But one of the disadvantages is also low resistance to mechanical damage.

If we talk about which anticorrosive agent is better for treating the inside of a car, then we would advise you to consider oil-based options.

Also, if you want to re-treat a part and there is already a layer of oil or wax on it, then it must be cleaned off, and only then apply a new coating, otherwise you may not notice the rusting process under the old coating, and as a result it will penetrate through will rot. Be attentive to this issue and follow the work technology.

Anticorrosive for external surfaces

We include the underbody of the car, wheel arches and sills as such areas of the body. The materials used to protect these body elements are subject to completely different requirements.

1. Protecting the metal surface from moisture and electrolyte.
2. High degree of adhesion even with damaged areas of the body.
3. Be partially elastic, but at the same time show high resistance to mechanical impacts that come from the road surface in the form of sand, dirt and stones.
4. Have the ability to withstand minor body deformations that are possible when driving.

If you look at the selection in the automotive markets, you can choose a large number of materials that solve the problem of protecting external metal surfaces from corrosion. One of the brightest representatives are products based on bitumen mastic; corrosion inhibitors are also often added to their composition, and thus these materials solve several problems.

• protection from the external environment: water, salts, chemicals.
• mechanical resistance to the ingress of gravel, sand and other elements from the road surface.
• In case of small collisions with curbs or other obstacles, good mastics also withstand, which cannot be said about the same wax compositions.
• serve as additional noise insulation and reduce the level of vibration of metal parts of the machine.

Such anticorrosives are applied in a fairly thick layer of about 250-400 microns.

Also, bitumen mastics are divided according to consistency into drying and non-drying.

Liquid mastics have reduced resistance to mechanical stress, but at the same time they are convenient to treat even the most difficult areas, for example on the underbody of a car, and they retain their elasticity for a very long time.

To increase resistance to damage, metals such as aluminum and zinc are added to them. Drying mastics have a drawback - the likelihood of cracking in the most loaded areas of the surface being treated.

Review of specific anticorrosives for car body treatment

Let's now look at a few materials that are selling well in the market and discuss the manufacturers of these same products. We will give brief recommendations, and you yourself will determine what is suitable specifically in your case. All these materials will give you the answer to which anticorrosive agent is best for both a new and an old car.

In fact, there is not much difference between the treatment of an old and a new car, the only difference is in the surface preparation process, the old one will need to be thoroughly cleaned and treated from rust, but the new car can simply be coated right away.

In addition, all these materials can be applied without any special equipment, with a regular brush or a spray device (like for sprinkling beetles in a garden).

1. Movil takes a long time to dry. After processing it forms a protective film. You can apply it with a brush in 2 - 3 layers, while taking a drying break for about 20 minutes. It is important to apply thin layers, since if applied roughly, such a coating will be more susceptible to mechanical stress and capable of chipping off in entire layers. The rule does not apply here: the more, the better. It is sold in a glass container. It is characterized by the fact that it does not dry for a long time, since a fatty layer is formed and, after partial drying, turns into a soft crust. But still, with prolonged use of the vehicle, it completely dries out and needs to be replaced. Can be used both for internal surfaces and for the underbody and sills of the car. Movil, which dries for a long time, allows you to preserve rust well, and you may not have to solve this problem for several more years if used correctly. After all, if stones hit it, it can form chips, and the corrosion process will continue; such material is not resistant to mechanical damage. Be sure to use mud flaps, they will at least partially remove all road surface particles flying off the wheels. Perfect for temporary protection of the same underbody of a car.
2. Mastic body 930 . This material is based on rubber. Apply mastic with a brush in thin layers, they can be applied in more than 2 or 3 layers. After drying, it forms a hard shell-like surface that can withstand almost all small stones and sand flying from under the wheels. According to reviews, you can often hear that it is damaged with a jack at a tire shop. It is characterized by a high ability to protect metal from corrosion, and a high degree of surface coverage, while not allowing oxygen and water to pass through, which preserves pockets of rust. But after long-term use of 2–3 years, such material is still erased, albeit partially, and all work needs to be done again. In order to extend the service life, you can additionally treat it with a thin layer of Movil, and even if the hard coating cracks, the long-drying Movil will fill the microcracks and the risk of rust development will be significantly lower.
3. Movil is quick-drying. Sold in plastic packaging. It resembles a watery solution that can be applied either with a brush or a spray bottle. After complete drying it turns into paraffin (yellow coating). It is quite strong and can even withstand pressure washing, but mechanical damage from stones will destroy it in a short time. Often used on internal surfaces, for example, under the seals of doors and windows, underbody and wings from the inside of the cabin. After all, this product is absolutely neutral to rubber, which cannot be said about the long-drying Movil, which renders rubber unusable. We do not recommend using it for external parts of the body.
4. Tectyl zinc body safe . This product is twice as expensive as the previous ones. Sold in aerosol cans or buckets. Apply from a bucket to the surface using a spray gun. This is a more professional tool. This is a flowing material that allows you to fill all the cracks and curved surfaces of the same bottom. The material is quite elastic and takes a long time to dry, but when it reaches the desired consistency, it turns into a film of medium thickness, which is similar to rubber, just as soft, elastic and strong. When applied, it lies in the form of pieces, with air pores, but during drying, all the air escapes and a uniform surface is formed. One of the main features that the masters highlight is that body safe is not hard enough, but with the use of mudguards and gentle operation of the car, you will solve the problem of anti-corrosion treatment for 5 - 6 years. The second point, they say that it is not advisable to apply it separately to old cars , high adhesion will hide the rust underneath and the same floor in the car will rot completely. In this case, they combine materials such as tektil ml + body safe, or quick-drying Movil, and body 930 on top. But in any case, it is better to prepare the surface well, clean it, treat it with chemicals against rust, prime it and only then apply anticorrosive.
5. Tektil ml, Movil for hidden cavities . Both of these materials are used for hidden surfaces inside the car body. Tektil ml forms a stretchy film, and Movil forms a paraffin coating. Here you already choose by price. Both materials have proven themselves well, and the same Movil is available with various additives, for example a rust converter.

Related article: Painting a car in camouflage, selection of technology and type of pattern

By evaluating several of these materials, you can answer several questions. What is the best anti-corrosion agent to treat the underbody of a car? For example, you can use body 930 + long-drying Movil, or tektil ml + tektil zinc body safe. For internal ones? Tektil ml, Movil for hidden cavities, Movil will be cheaper.

What materials are still on the market?

There are a number of other anticorrosives that are also in demand.

• 3M 08877 (USA). It is characterized by a high level of adhesion, but at -20 degrees Celsius it becomes brittle. Protects metal well from salt and water solutions.
• SOUDAL UNDERBODY (Belgium). Good resistance to mechanical damage and temperature changes. But this material is less resistant to salts.
• HARDWAX (Switzerland). The level of adhesion is not high and at -20 degrees Celsius it loses elasticity. Excellent protection against salt compounds and does not affect the paintwork of the workpiece.
• WAXOYL (Switzerland). Forms an elastic and frost-resistant film that perfectly protects against water and salts. But with long-term use, the coating needs to be renewed. Characterized by low material consumption. Used for interior surfaces.
• SOUDAL ML-WAX (Belgium). A protective film is formed. Used for hidden surfaces. There are problems with the fluidity of the material before drying, which complicates the process of filling all the cracks and joints of the parts.
• FERRO-BARRIER (Russia). It is characterized by a high level of adhesion, good fluidity and after drying an elastic film is obtained. For hidden surfaces. The downside is that it becomes brittle in the cold or when heated.

As you can see, we tried to consider the main parameters of anticorrosion agents and determined them. That there are options for the external and internal surfaces of the body. And it’s up to you to decide which anticorrosive agent to treat your car with, based on your financial capabilities and the specific tasks that you set for such a protective coating. Share your feedback on the anticorrosion agents you use.

Source: http://krasimauto.com/pokrasochnie-raboty/antikor-dlya-obrabotki-avto.html

3 best products for car anti-corrosion treatment

The anti-corrosion coating of the car protects it from rust, due to which its original appearance is preserved for a long time. Moreover, it is recommended to carry out additional anti-corrosion treatment regularly (every 2-3 years).

Types and features of car anti-corrosion treatment

There are 2 main groups of products with which you can treat your car against corrosion with your own hands. They differ in composition and location of application. Each of these groups has its own specific characteristics:

1. Preparations intended for coating external surfaces. This group includes bitumen mastic, made on the basis of synthetic resins. This product adheres well to the metal surface and protects it from impacts and other damage. In addition, materials based on rubber and PVC are used as anti-corrosion coatings. They are considered the most durable, but due to low availability they are used mainly in automobile factories.
2. Materials used to process hidden machine parts. If the question arises as to what is the best way to treat the underbody of a car against corrosion, then the most effective remedy is non-drying anti-corrosion compounds that are oil-based. They do not harden, but remain liquid, due to which they fill all microcracks, adhering tightly to the metal surface. Wax-based preparations are also suitable for processing hidden parts. After use, the compositions dry, forming a thin film. Moreover, the resulting coating does not lose its elasticity when exposed to high temperatures.

Advice. Another remedy is liquid plastic. However, it has low resistance to mechanical stress, so it is not recommended to be used as the main means for anti-corrosion treatment of a car.

How to choose the best materials and products for anti-corrosion treatment of cars

For complete anti-corrosion treatment of the body, you should not buy products in aerosol cans. They can only be used for minor repairs, since they contain a low percentage of protective components. They contain a solvent with a propellant.

On the advice of experts, do-it-yourself anti-corrosion treatment of the body should be carried out using anti-corrosion agent poured into containers of various sizes. When purchasing a drug, you must carefully study the information on the packaging. Information about the manufacturer, date of manufacture and expiration date, composition, instructions for use must be indicated.

Particular attention should be paid to choosing the type of product. Before this, you need to decide which part of the car will be processed: the entire car as a whole, hidden or external parts.

You also need to take into account that the purchased product must include water displacers. Without them, the effectiveness of the drug will be several times lower. Corrosion protection will be most effective if done using the following products that are considered the best of their kind:

• Dinitrol. The products are made from dinitro components. In addition to being highly effective against corrosion, the product has excellent sound insulation properties. Moreover, the surface treated with it becomes sealed and is not damaged by moisture and high temperature. However, such a drug has a high cost - from 3,000 rubles per unit of product.

• RunWay is an inexpensive and fairly effective option for anti-corrosion treatment. Its cost is from 500 rubles per jar. It is better to treat the car body against corrosion with its help, because the product dries quickly and is applied in a thin layer. If you spread 2 layers of the drug, this will be enough to protect against corrosion for 3 years. However, it does not have soundproofing properties.
• Noxudol. It is most often used to treat the underbody of a car, although it is suitable for protecting any internal cavities. The product has high sound insulation properties. However, it has a significant drawback - it takes at least 3 days to dry.

How to make a new anticorrosive agent with your own hands

Before applying anti-corrosion coating to the bottom, it is necessary to prepare the product. To do this, take the selected anti-corrosion drug, add to it cannon lard (100 g per 1 liter of product) and plasticine (1 pack per 5 liters of the mixture).

Mix everything until smooth, and then heat it in a water bath. The drug will be ready immediately after it turns black. This DIY anti-corrosion agent is only suitable for the underbody of a car. It must be applied with a brush in a thick layer - at least 1 cm.

Preparing a car for anticorrosion

Protecting a car from rust involves several stages. First of all, the car must be prepared for the process. To do this, you need to clean it from existing rust. Most often it accumulates in the bottom area, so special attention is paid to cleaning it. To do this, you should:

• Wash the surface of the machine thoroughly. It is advisable to go to a car wash, where the car will be thoroughly cleaned of any dirt.
• To remove rust, it is better to use special metal brushes. A drill will help you quickly clean the bottom.
• You should first remove the fender liners from the car, since very often rust forms under them.

After this, you can treat the underbody of the car with an anti-corrosion compound.

It is usually applied in a thick layer, which takes several days to dry. It is prohibited to operate the machine during this period.

Making and applying anticorrosive coating to a car using a gun

Anti-corrosion treatment of a car is an expensive service in a car service center. Therefore, many people spend it at home. To do this, you need to know several features of the process being carried out.

Treatment of internal and hidden cavities (spars, pillars, thresholds)

Do-it-yourself treatment of hidden car body cavities is carried out using liquid materials with a low degree of viscosity containing corrosion inhibitors. To apply them, use a special air spray (can or aerosol).

These devices help treat the car's thresholds from the inside. It is recommended to proceed to protecting the remaining parts after these elements have dried.

Anticorrosive on the bottom and arches of the car

Protecting the underbody of the car from corrosion is one of the most important stages. It must be carried out on a lift, which allows full access to the bottom of the machine. At home, the lift can be replaced with an inspection hole (in extreme cases, the car is turned on its side). Anticorrosive agent is evenly applied to the bottom and arches.

Do-it-yourself anti-corrosion treatment of the underbody of a car is carried out using a roller, brush or brush. The process is carried out manually. It is necessary to treat the underbody of the car against corrosion at least 3-4 times. In this case, after applying each layer, you should wait some time until the coating dries.

Full anti-corrosive treatment of the car interior

Inside the cabin, only the floor needs to be treated, since it is most vulnerable to corrosion. To do this, remove all seats and rugs, and then begin the process. The mixture is applied with a brush or roller. If it's cold outside, you should warm up the car interior. The air temperature must be at least 15 degrees Celsius. The substance should be applied evenly, in several layers.

Door and body treatment

When processing doors, special attention should be paid to welds. The preparation should be applied to the seams in 2 layers, using a special device - a construction gun. Treating the car body against corrosion includes protecting the hood and trunk. The mixture is applied only to the inside so as not to damage the paintwork.

If it is possible to paint the car, it is recommended to apply at least one layer of anti-corrosion compound to its entire surface. Depending on the type of anticorrosive, its service life may vary. Cheap options last for about 2-3 years, after which they need to be updated. More expensive mixtures for anti-corrosion treatment retain their properties for up to 5 years.

Source: http://motorstory.ru/care/rust/3-luchshix-sredstva-dlya-antikorrozijnoj-obrabotki-avtomobilya/

What is the best way to treat car arches against corrosion?

Any material undergoes a change in its structure due to combination with various aggressive substances. For metal, the aggressive substance is oxygen (O2), upon contact with which the structure of the metal is destroyed. They are now trying to protect car bodies as much as possible from the formation of corrosion centers, the so-called metal blooming.