Removing the tip from a USB soldering iron - Mini guide on how to make a pocket soldering iron from an old electronic cigarette and a tip for a USB soldering iron. – News of the computer world
For people who do soldering all the time, a USB soldering iron has become an interesting new product. The main feature of this type of technology is that it connects to the USB output, which is now present on all devices. This ensures economical use and the ability to operate on portable batteries if they are equipped with a similar connector.
You shouldn’t consider a USB soldering iron as a full-fledged analogue to tools powered by the network. The power of the equipment is significantly lower than that offered by similar models connected to a 220 V source.
However, the convenience of having a device at hand that runs from a laptop or other similar power source has proven very tempting for professionals and hobbyists.
Recently, a large number of different models have appeared, mainly made in China, connecting according to this principle.
As a rule, the tip for a USB soldering iron is thin, which makes it possible to work with small parts. They do not require much power, so such models satisfy the tasks assigned to them. Modern devices have additional modes that facilitate the soldering process, but the maximum power somewhat limits their widespread use.
Advantages and disadvantages
A mini USB soldering iron is a tool designed for a narrow segment of use. In this area, it has a number of serious advantages that have allowed the device to gain popularity among people involved in soldering. Among the advantages:
- compact size and light weight, which allows you to store the device on the table and use it at a convenient time, not to mention trouble-free carrying;
- economical energy consumption, which is due to low power and a special circuit that allows you to optimize power parameters;
- the presence of additional functions that depend mainly on the specific model;
- thin tip, ensuring precision work with small parts;
- fast heating, which speeds up the soldering process;
- availability of connection to almost all USB connectors, including chargers for phones and tablet computers;
- relatively low cost, although this parameter depends on the specific model and manufacturer.
Portable USB soldering irons also have a number of disadvantages that limit their use and distribution:
- low power level;
- poor security of the case, vulnerability is especially pronounced for models with complex circuits;
- not all devices are ergonomic; some of them are inconvenient to work for a long time;
- actual parameters do not always correspond to those declared;
- operational reliability is often unsatisfactory.
"Important! Remaking a USB soldering iron is a good way to eliminate a number of problems and shortcomings, but this will require appropriate experience."
Types of USB soldering irons
There are several types of models, differing from each other in the presence of additional functions. They are all designed to perform the same tasks. The differences lie in power and additional innovations.
Soldering irons with a temperature regulator allow you to adjust the maximum tip heating values. To do this, an additional sensor must be built into the model, which is responsible for heating the soldering iron. For most tasks this is a very important function.
Soldering irons that switch off when not in use for a long time. The function saves energy and makes work safe - if you forgot to turn off the tool, it will do it itself.
Possibility of firmware. This is an innovative feature that started appearing relatively recently. It allows you to make changes to the limit characteristics of the device via a computer. Thus, connection to it is possible not only as a power source, but also as a control device.
Refinement and improvement of USB soldering irons
Reworking the USB soldering iron is required if any shortcomings are found in it. More often this is an adjustment to the body, which should be made more convenient to use. For example, to prevent your fingers from slipping, wrap ordinary electrical tape or other means with good grip.
You will also need to install temperature sensors if they are not included in the design. Sometimes doing it yourself is cheaper than choosing a model with a regulator. This practice has been preserved since those times when temperature regulators and sensors were not so common.
A popular modification is replacing or improving the power supply. If problems arise during operation, or the soldering iron behaves unstable, then most often the problem lies there.
Do not forget about replacing wires, which can be carried out even by inexperienced solders. If you make a USB soldering iron with your own hands, you have to create almost every element of the tool. Accordingly, modifications occur according to the same principle as if this unit was created for a homemade tool, since the factory circuit of a USB soldering iron is not much different from its “home” analogue.
Specifications
Soldering iron USB ZD 20u 5V 8w is a model from the Rexant brand, which has a maximum power of 8 W. A compact device that can heat up to 400 degrees Celsius, which is enough to do most jobs. The cable is detached from the soldering iron, which is convenient for transportation and storage. The tool works normally with lead-tin solders, which are the main ones in this matter.
| Power | 8 W |
| Heat | 400 degrees Celsius |
| Replacing the tip | present |
| Tip shape | cone |
| Shape of the tip | straight |
| Power adjustment | absent |
| Equipment | stand, documentation, connection cable |
TS100 is a popular programmable model. In terms of technical characteristics, it is not much different from the previous one, but here it is possible to adjust the parameters, and the accuracy of the temperature sensor facilitates complex soldering operations that require the selection of modes.
| Power, V | 65 |
| Weight | 35 g |
| Maximum error | 2 degrees Celsius |
| Length, mm | 168 |
| Dimensions, mm | 96 x 16 x 12 |
| Maximum heating temperature, degrees Celsius | 400 |
Instructions for use
When using a USB stick, you must follow simple safety rules. Do not leave it on unattended, especially near objects that may catch fire. After disconnecting, you need to wait until it cools down before packing the device into a box.
Using the equipment is simple; you just need to connect it to a power source and turn it on, if there is a corresponding button.
Popular manufacturers
Among the many manufacturers of such equipment, not all brands are famous. Some Chinese manufacturers leave soldering irons without their name at all. Brands that manufacture such products include:
Conclusion
For the craftsmen, the technique was not taken seriously at first, but over the years it has evolved. Soldering irons have become more technical and have received useful improvements. The models have the necessary functions for their environment of use, and their parameters are suitable for users. The disadvantages are due to comparison with powerful conventional tools, and therefore are incorrect. Now you can easily choose a high-quality and inexpensive model of a USB soldering iron.
USB soldering iron test
Source: https://delvik.ru/raznoe/snimaem-zhalo-s-usb-payalnika-mini-gajd-kak-iz-staroj-elektronnoj-sigarety-i-zhala-dlya-yusb-payalnika-sdelat-karmannyj- payalnik.html
Soldering iron tip made of brass
I would like to share my experience in making stubble for a soldering iron. At work, I often have to solder and very quickly the soldering iron rod gets torn by scale, decreases in diameter, and the very tip of the soldering iron tip burns out, cavities appear on it, which ultimately forces you to constantly sharpen and tin it.
Everyone knows that the copper rod of a soldering iron requires periodic molding of the tip, since it “burns out” quite quickly - shells form on the tip due to the dissolution of copper in the solder.
Therefore, I decided to experiment a little in this matter and check how a brass soldering rod would work. It turned out that the tip of the brass rod is perfectly tinned and “holds” solder no worse than copper. At the same time, the rod is not covered with scale at all.
The resistance of the tip to the formation of shells with a brass rod is also much higher.
The experiment with bronze rods also yielded good results. Soldering iron rods made of brass and bronze are more convenient for making various nozzles of complex shapes for group soldering of microcircuit pins, for removing multi-pin components from the board, and others.
Attention: Just keep in mind that not all brands of bronze are tinned.
You can make many elements in a soldering iron yourself or replace them with improvised materials, since the design of this tool is simple.
The need to create a soldering iron tip with your own hands can arise both when you create a tool yourself, or when replacing an old one.
The part is any metal that heats up well over the entire area, holds the temperature for a long time and melts at high temperature. For ease of operation, it will need to be sharpened in a special way, but this is not difficult.
Basic materials and tools for making a sting
Before you start working, it’s worth finding out what to make a soldering iron tip from. Such items include:
- copper tube with a diameter of up to 8 mm;
- copper wire or brass rod with a diameter of up to 4 mm.
For direct manufacturing you will need the following tools:
- ruler;
- bench vise;
- hammer;
- soldering iron;
- hacksaw for metal;
- taps and dies for thread cutting;
- file;
- knife sharpener;
- pliers.
What metal is best to make a soldering iron tip from?
It is preferable to make a homemade soldering iron tip from copper. Simple factory models are made from this metal, since it is a refractory variety and is excellent for this purpose of use.
More modern devices may have a ceramic tip; other types of material are also used. If you can’t find copper, you can make a soldering iron tip with your own hands from stainless steel or brass.
The steel rod will take longer to warm up, but will be quite suitable for work.
Preparing metal for the tip
Having figured out what a soldering iron tip can be made from, you can move on to preparing the metal. All areas on the casing tube are leveled - a hammer is useful for this. If the part turns out to be too long, it can always be cut into several parts.
Read also: How to choose a hammer drill for apartment renovation
You can reduce the tip of a soldering iron that uses copper wire in the same way. It would also be a good idea to level it. After all elements are aligned, the metal is cleaned of contaminants.
Making a soldering iron tip with your own hands
When creating a soldering iron tip with your own hands from copper and other materials, select the diameter so that it coincides with the inner Ø of the casing. Thus, to make a thin tip for a soldering iron with your own hands, it is correct to take thinner copper wires, but otherwise the process will be similar.
You need to choose the length of the tip with a small margin, since over time it will need to be ground down and will decrease in size. But the length should not exceed 3 cm, otherwise the tool will be inconvenient to work with. In addition, a tip that is too long will lead to losses in thermal efficiency.
To secure the tip, you will still need to create a casing. It is made from the same materials that can be used to make a soldering iron tip. It is advisable to select identical materials. For the casing, pipe scraps about 2.5 cm long are suitable.
The edges of the cut should not have burrs or other irregularities. After sawing, the workpiece is processed with a file so that the edges become smooth. The inside can be cleaned using a screwdriver by turning it in the tube.
After all preparations, it is recommended to check whether the dimensions of the casing match the tip itself.
The next step in the process called “How to make a thin soldering iron tip” is to grind the working area to give it the desired shape. Most often it is made in the form of a cone. At this time, you have to grind off a significant amount of material using a file. If it is possible to use a bench sharpener, this will significantly speed up the process, since copper is a difficult metal to work by hand, and turning with a file will take a lot of time.
Visually, the shape of the tip should be similar to a sharpened pencil. The first time it may turn out far from ideal.”
When we make a tip for a soldering iron, we need to devote enough attention to grinding so that the part turns out to be as similar as possible to the factory models. The convenience of further work depends on this. When cutting the back of the tip, you need to create as smooth an end as possible so that it can stand on the table surface without support. This is necessary for the maximum level of contact with the heating element.
When making a copper tip for a soldering iron with your own hands, you need to ensure its reliable connection to the casing. Using taps and dies, threads are cut on the surface of each part.
Despite the fact that homemade tools and parts rarely require such a serious approach, it is the thread that will help avoid problems with the tip falling out due to thermal expansion and contraction during operation. This is a reliable way to secure the sting.
In the future, when the part wears out, only the tip itself will have to be changed, as well as threads cut on it, because the casing will remain the same.
Read also: What is another name for borax in glycerin?
There is no difference in where the cutting begins - the tip or the casing. The workpiece must be clamped in a vice and the surface must be worked to the desired length. The next step in the process “How to make a soldering iron tip with your own hands” is stripping and joining. The threads should be cleaned with steel wool.
If there are any rough corners, you can file them down. After cleaning all parts, the casing and tip must be connected to each other. If resistance is felt at first, there is nothing to worry about, since the new thread can behave this way, especially if it is poorly stripped. To improve the thread progress, you can screw the part in and out several times.
At the last stages, the tip is polished when it is already screwed into the casing. To extend its service life, it is necessary to additionally coat the surface with nickel.
This is not necessary, but without such a coating the sting will not last long. This is a simple, not particularly expensive and quick process. Nickel plating protects the instrument from rust and corrosion.
Conclusion
Not all craftsmen want to take a thorough approach to the production of stings on their own. Homemade tools and parts for them are often perceived as a spare and simple option for quick work.
In this case, precise sizing and threading will not be required. But when you want to make a high-quality and durable tip yourself, it is better to follow the above instructions.
Although, taking into account the current cost of stings, making a part with your own hands is not always economically justified.
soldering process with a homemade tip
I decided to share one more, God knows what kind of homemade product: a homemade tip to replace the factory soldering iron from Solomon.
I have long noticed that soldering irons, especially new designs from almost all companies, come with a working tip of a cone sharpening with a tip or a small platform at the end, the platform, as always, at a right angle to the longitudinal axis. This tool is not the most convenient for work. Tips of other forms of sharpening come separately and are prohibitively expensive.
Various multilayer composites from copper alloys, steel to ceramics are used as materials; such a tip cannot always be sharpened. Yes, and it’s problematic to tin him. I'm used to soldering with a copper tip. And you can always correct the shape and grind down the shell, and vice versa, make it for a microwave effect, and the material is not in short supply, at least for those who worked under the Soviet Union.
There can be many replaceable working rods; don’t start the soldering station to change one DIP chip, but change the tip to a specially made one for this purpose in about 30 seconds. Rods were made with a hole inside for desoldering various switches with pins with a diameter of more than 1 mm.
, knife-type for desoldering multi-pin parts, where the pins are in a row, whole dies for multi-pin microcircuits with round bases or shaped arrangement of legs, everyone has their own imagination, the material is usually the same - copper.
Copper is one of the best heat conductors, it is perfectly wetted by tin alloys, and is easy to process. After brief attempts to solder with a standard tip and two new soldering tips, the solution arose on its own: replacing it with copper ones. Where can I get a new copper tip? Nowadays pure materials are becoming scarce, but I have accumulated a large stockpile of old copper rods.
Previously, a soldering iron had at least one spare or several tips of different shapes, which were not always needed. There is still a copper rod with a diameter of 1 to 5 mm left from the former work with welding transformers, there is also brass.
But the problem was that a copper rod or ready-made tip to fit the size of the new soldering iron was never found, but the brass rod was just right.
Read also: Acid for processing welds on stainless steel
Brass did not work for long, in a few hours the tip of the tip dissolved in the solder, perhaps other types of brass or bronze will work, I have not tested (some of these alloys do not transfer heat well, some are very loose in structure, some are not wetted by solder).
The advantage of brass and bronze is the absence of scale from prolonged heating, and there is no danger of the rod jamming in the soldering iron body. An idea came up: the body of the tip was made of brass, but the working tip itself was made of copper. A rod cut to size was drilled along the longitudinal axis to a depth of 1.5 cm.
, the drill was taken according to the size of the existing copper rod, which was driven into the hole with a hammer. The brass was previously heated to expand. The result was a very tight connection, very similar to an ordinary pencil, where instead of a lead there was a copper rod.
Sharpening was not difficult; everything was done on an emery wheel, followed by light sanding with fine sandpaper. I shaped the working tip into a platform at an angle of 45 degrees; in the future there will be other shapes.
To replace the bead holding the homemade tip in the fastening of the soldering iron body, I inserted a pin made from the shank of a broken drill in the right place, and using sandpaper adjusted the length to the size of the inner diameter of the fastening nut.
The photographs were taken after using the new tip for several months; the tip has already been corrected several times with a needle file. So far there have been no problems, no warping or loosening detected.
It is advisable to use electrical copper for the tip, not annealed, it is less ductile, and it is advisable to forge it, or at least form the working part with a hammer on an anvil, followed by finishing with a needle file. This treatment will give the sting durability. Instead of a brass rod, you can use a standard tip if it is not used.
Published by admin December 02, 2012 20:24:40 · 0 Comments · 8056 Reads ·Source: https://morflot.su/zhalo-pajalnika-iz-latuni/
How to change a soldering iron tip
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WATCH THE VIDEO ON THE TOPIC: Elementary. Sharpening a soldering iron tip and how to tin it correctly. Soldering and repairing headphones
What's with the soldering iron?
I encountered the same problem, please help me. I bought a new watt soldering iron from the store. The main application is soldering twists in boxes.
I've been practicing this for a long time. But I just can’t get used to soldering with a new soldering iron. All wrong! Tin constantly drains from the tip, rosin quickly burns, an oxide film is formed, which can only be removed with sandpaper; dipping a zinc chloride solution into the rosin and dripping it onto the tip has no effect.
As soon as I puddle, the tin immediately gathers in piles on the tip and between the piles, at first barely noticeable, and then large black areas of oxide form. At first I was guilty of overheating - I moved the tip further away; there was a bolt with which it was clamped inside, but it didn’t help. The tip is wide, even too wide, I’m thinking about grinding it down halfway on the machine. Tell me what to do?
With my previous soldering iron I soldered a bunch of boxes and more, but it failed - it struck a phase on the case and then short-circuited when it touched zero in the box. I had to buy this one, but I just can’t solder with it, it doesn’t work. Victor wrote: Tin constantly flows off the tip, rosin quickly burns, an oxide film is formed that can only be cleaned off with sandpaper, and there is no effect from dipping zinc chloride solution into the rosin and dripping it onto the tip.
Or the material of the soldering iron tip is wrong. Not long ago I encountered a similar problem, and until I replaced the Ketai “good” with our copper, the same symptoms were observed.
Bladiclab wrote: Victor, Is the sting well tinned? Better photo. You can take a photo, of course, but tinning lasts for 15 seconds, then everything gets covered in scale. Take a photo of the scale or when you just tinned it?
Victor wrote: Should I take a picture of the scale or when I just tinned it? Victor wrote: but servicing lasts for 15 seconds, then everything gets covered in scale... Try changing the tip while it is possible or carry a heat sink with you.
With such power, this phenomenon is observed even on shovel soldering irons, unless of course the tip is a “hammer”. Try installing a diode with a limit switch - it will reduce the heating of the tip when not in use for soldering. Victor wrote: At first I was guilty of too much heat. Bachelor wrote: Try installing a diode with a limit switch.
Bachelor wrote: Try changing the tip. I don’t know how many degrees it heats up to. To replace the tip you need to first have something to change it to, the old soldering iron has it much thicker and is not suitable for this.
I’ll throw a photo of a cold soldering iron and tip now, tinned only tomorrow, otherwise I’ve run out of rosin, I’ll buy it tomorrow. Victor wrote: otherwise I ran out of rosin. Victor wrote: the old soldering iron is much thicker and is not suitable for this. Bladiclab wrote: So maybe you no longer used rosin or tinned it with who knows what. No, I’ve already tried to tin it many times. Still, I soldered some twists to them, but it’s a terrible torment..
Naturally, it happened, but the difference in diameters is about 3 mm. Victor wrote: The previous soldering iron had a more massive tip. For a hundred square meters you need at least 10 mm in diameter, yours seems to be 8 mm. Install a diode and a heat sink-stand. For long-term soldering I have this Victor wrote: I’ll post a photo of a cold soldering iron and tip now. Bladiclab wrote: It feels like there is a screwdriver rod in the sandal.
An ordinary soldering iron from Ketai, you can find them everywhere in the markets. Victor, You can also wrap the tip and the body with wire - the heat dissipation will increase. You will have to buy a new one, it’s such a shame, I bought it in a good store for radio amateurs, well, at least it’s not very expensive. When it heats up, it becomes red all over in the place where the spiral is wound. Everything was fine with the previous one. The bachelor wrote: I have one like this for long-term soldering.
Miniatures Miniatures Click on image to enlarge Name: soldering iron. Victor wrote: When it heats up, it turns red all over in the place where the spiral is wound. Victor wrote: Do you recommend it?
Bachelor wrote: Shit.. Bladiclab wrote: In electrical installation there is only one photo, meant as a visual example. Oh, well, there’s one photo for everyone. Then you need to look at the sample.
You need to look for one like this. It is also produced by Belgorod. The bachelor wrote: You need to look for one like this. I don't use soldering irons with plastic handles. When heated, it falls apart. And it's hot to hold. Better wood. Okay, thanks for the advice. I'll be looking for a new soldering iron. I don’t know what to do with this, it’s already bothering me. Victor wrote: I don’t know what to do with this, it’s already bothering me. Find a thick tip, sharpen it and use it. The rest of the tips are above.
One more thing You can assemble a simple power regulator and control the temperature of the tip depending on your needs - solder if you want, try if you want. Forum Blogs Market of Masters. New messages New topic Albums Popular tags Discounts.
Join the Mastergrad community Register. Forum Tools and Power Equipment Soldering What's with the soldering iron? What's with the soldering iron? Reply to topic. New first, old first. Victor View profile User messages Private message.
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Replacing a burnt tip on an EPSN 40 W soldering iron
I decided to spend a little time on my old and beloved Soviet EPSN soldering iron with a power of 40 W. Since its tip is so burnt that it bends almost under its own weight: - Previously, it was possible to work with a soldering iron as a burner, that is, to burn patterned holes in some kind of plastic.
Now, you can’t really press a soldering iron on any copper wire or other piece of hardware when you’re trying to tin them. As a matter of principle, I didn’t buy a ready-made tip, because I knew that I had several tips lying around in the box with this soldering iron. It’s just that their diameter is slightly larger than required, so I delayed repairing the soldering iron almost until the last minute.
Actually, from the photo below you can clearly see how the copper tip near the soldering iron body burned out and bent. I think this happened mostly due to the fact that I used the soldering iron as a burner.
The tip is worn out, but the soldering iron is good, is it really possible to replace it?
Soldering iron tips
The need to tin a soldering iron arises when a molten drop of solder stops spreading over the heated surface and sticking to it; there is no way to supply a sufficient portion to the soldering point, which interferes with high-quality work.
The tip, receiving heat from the heater, oxidizes in air. In addition to reducing the adhesion of solder to copper, a layer of thermally insulating carbon deposits impairs heat distribution.
Tools with nichrome heating elements have a copper round rod, which is given a shape convenient for soldering. Mechanical processing of the rod is carried out with a file, followed by finishing on sandpaper or a finely notched needle file. Then it is useful to lightly beat off the sting using a cold method on an anvil. This will compact the top layer of copper, increase mechanical strength and reduce the rate at which the molten solder dissolves the material.
It would be a good idea to polish it to reduce the rate of oxidation.
Types of tips for soldering irons
The need to tin a soldering iron arises when a molten drop of solder stops spreading over the heated surface and sticking to it; there is no way to supply a sufficient portion to the soldering point, which interferes with high-quality work.
The tip, receiving heat from the heater, oxidizes in air. In addition to reducing the adhesion of solder to copper, a layer of thermally insulating carbon deposits impairs heat distribution.
Tools with nichrome heating elements have a copper round rod, which is given a shape convenient for soldering.
Construction and repair of an electric soldering iron
View full version: Ways to protect a soldering iron tip from burnout? Pages: [1] 2. Good health to everyone. The question is simple in principle, and at the same time, how to protect a soldering iron tip from burnout at home? There is, in principle, another option, now they sell bourgeois tips for soldering stations, but how can you make a soldering iron based on it?
Therefore, to maintain the optimal temperature of the soldering iron tip, you have to connect it through thyristor power regulators with manual operation.
Rexant 12-0613 Soldering iron
Even such a simple device as a household soldering iron has component parts, each of which performs its own strictly defined function. That is why, when studying the structure of this product, they talk about a set of soldering iron tips, which almost always, with the exception of rare cases, are made removable.
The need to change the tip is caused not only by mechanical wear, but also by the need to select the thickness and shape of the tip that is suitable for specific operating conditions.
Replaceable soldering iron tips, differing in material, shape, coating and thickness, are capable of dissipating different amounts of power, which is very important when choosing a product suitable for the job.
Soldering iron problems, why do they occur and how to solve them?
How to fix a soldering iron tip? Dirty soldering iron tip! How to clean?? It is normal that it does not remove the sting.
Theory and practice. Cases, diagrams, examples and technical solutions, reviews of interesting electrical innovations.
The soldering iron tip burns out quickly
How to avoid problems during use? So you bought a new soldering iron, plugged it in, and it started smoking and generally smelling bad? Is this even normal? What to do when such situations arise and is it worth doing anything about it at all? Why does it smoke if it's new? Situation: a pressing question that most often interests novice radio amateurs.
Important characteristics of the soldering tip
We accept Sprint-Layout 6 format! Export to Gerber from Sprint-Layout 6. This should have been taken care of in advance, immediately after purchase.
Source: https://all-audio.pro/c6/manuali/kak-pomenyat-zhalo-payalnika.php
