How to tin a soldering iron: preparation and care of the soldering iron
> Tools > How to tin a soldering iron: preparation and care of the soldering iron
Soldering is the physical and chemical process of forming a connection between parts when solder interacts with the metal being soldered. Unlike welding, the working surfaces are not melted, but are wetted with solder.
What does a simple soldering iron look like?
An indispensable condition for the soldering process is melting the solder and wetting the surface of the working tool with it. Over time, the soldering iron tip turns black and stops working. Therefore, you need to know how to restore it - how to properly tin a soldering iron tip. The photo below shows the surface of the tool oxidized and covered with solder.
Soldering iron tip surface: 1) oxidized surface of the tool; 2) coated with solder - tinned
In the first case, you should not even try to solder, since the oxides prevent the solder from retaining on the surface of the tip.
The soldering iron will be ready for use only when its tip is covered with a layer of molten material with a lower melting point than the metals being joined.
Soldering materials
Solder is used for soldering - a material used to join metal surfaces and having a lower melting point than the materials of the parts being joined.
Solder consists of different alloys, which may include tin, lead, copper, nickel and cadmium. It is made mainly in the form of rods and wire.
Soldering is necessary to create a connection, reduce the contact resistance of the electrical contact and protect the connection of parts from oxidation.
The solder must have the property of wetting the base. In this case, it diffuses into the base metal, and it dissolves in the solder, forming an intermediate layer that, after solidification, connects the parts as one whole.
For soldering irons, soft solders with a melting point from 1910C to 2800C are used. Their main components are tin and lead in different proportions.
It is necessary to remove oxides from the surface of the metals being joined for soldering. Fluxes are used for this. In addition, they promote better solder spreading and protect surfaces from the external environment.
Flux is used in solid, liquid and paste form. It may be located inside a solder tube.
The following are used as flux:
- rosin;
- acetylsalicylic acid;
- orthophosphoric acid;
- salt;
- glycerol;
- ammonia.
Common fluxes for soldering in solid, liquid and paste form
Fluxes must provide low leakage current and be non-corrosive.
Soldering principle and process
Soldering is done by capturing solder and flux with a soldering iron tip, inserting them between the parts to be joined and further heating the contacting surfaces until they are wetted with solder, which subsequently hardens to form a joint. To do this, stop heating.
Soldering iron sharpening
How to make a soldering iron with your own hands
Before work, the soldering iron tip is sharpened with a file at an angle of 30-400. The edge is made slightly blunt, 1 mm wide.
If the tip is new, it already has sharpening. Here all that remains is to treat the tip with fine-grained sandpaper, a file or a needle file to remove the patina - greenish copper oxide.
Many people are not satisfied with store-bought sharpening, since soldering with it is not always possible. Therefore, it is advisable to remove the copper tip from the body and forge the working part in the form of a concave blade.
Such cold processing is more effective than sharpening, since the metal structure is compacted and the tip is less susceptible to corrosion. A little sanding with a file at the final stage is necessary to give the working part of the soldering iron a finished look.
How to tin a sting?
After sharpening, the tip should be tinned with a thin layer of solder. To do this, turn on the electric soldering iron and heat the copper rod until it takes on a reddish-orange hue.
You don't need to wait long, otherwise the rod will burn. After heating, the entire tip is immersed in rosin, and then a piece of solder is melted and the entire working surface is covered with it.
If you rub the tip on the surface of the wood, the solder will better cover the working area of the soldering iron.
The layer of solder on the tip should be uniform. If the surface is partially covered, the process is repeated. Once the soldering iron is ready for use, it can be used for soldering products.
How to tin a non-burnable tip?
The working part of some soldering irons is coated with a special protective compound. The layer is quite thin and cannot be peeled off. A special sponge is used for this. If it is not available, a regular piece of cloth moistened with water or glycerin will do. You can use a sponge designed for washing dishes.
Special tip cleaners are produced in the form of a ball of non-ferrous metal shavings into which the tip is immersed. In this case, the oxides remain inside. They can then be poured out.
Mechanical stress shortens the service life of the protective layer. When soldering, it is not recommended to shuffle on the board or knock on metal surfaces.
The non-burnable layer oxidizes quite quickly. To increase its service life, it is recommended to maintain the soldering temperature no higher than 2500C.
The temperature is considered normal when the smoke from the rosin comes out in a thin stream, and not in a cloud with splashes. In this case, the soldering is obtained with clear boundaries and a characteristic shine. If the solder surface turns out dull and has low mechanical strength, the heating temperature should be increased.
To tin a coated soldering iron tip, you need to put a piece of solder into the melted rosin. The soldering iron heats up and you need to rub its end over a wet cloth, removing oxides from all sides. Then the tip is lowered into rosin under a piece of solder. In this case, the remaining oxides are removed, and the solder melts and partially remains on the tip.
After tinning, the tip is wiped again with a cloth and the soldering iron is ready for use. It is important not to overheat it above 3000C, otherwise everything will have to be repeated all over again.
Overheating is visible by boiling and spattering of rosin when the soldering iron tip is lowered into it.
A set of replaceable non-burning tips used at the soldering station
A standard “needle” type tip has low thermal conductivity, and it is convenient to solder only miniature elements with it. It is quite difficult to solder radio components using it.
Tips of the “cylinder with bevel” type are more convenient. For soldering, it is advisable to have 3 tips of this type in the kit, with a diameter of 1, 2 and 3 mm.
The 5 mm knife-shaped tip has decent power and can be used to solder both thin and massive parts, if you unfold the knife correctly. Similarly, you can use a classic wedge-shaped tip.
Soldering iron overheating
In the absence of a voltage regulator, the soldering iron can heat up above 3000C, which leads to its burning. If it is not possible to measure the temperature of the tip, overheating can be noticed by boiling and splashing of rosin.
You can reduce the temperature of the soldering iron using a power regulator - a dimmer. Here you can select a conventional incandescent lamp brightness control device. It is important that it matches the power.
You can assemble a thyristor regulator on the Kr1182PM2 microcircuit with your own hands, which allows you to control devices with a power of up to 150 W.
Do-it-yourself microcircuit-based power regulator
Lamp HL1 is shown as the load. Instead, you can connect a soldering iron, which is an active load. The power is regulated by variable resistor R1.
Dimmers provide smooth switching on and off of the load. This is not required for a soldering iron and you can get by with a simpler device.
Circuit diagram of a simple thyristor regulator
The positive half-cycle is not controlled and passes through the diode VD1. Regulation is carried out only through a negative half-cycle by controlling the thyristor VD2 using a variable resistor R2. This is quite enough for a soldering iron.
Miniature control devices are built into the handle of the soldering iron. The best ways to maintain optimal soldering temperature are used in soldering stations, where the mode can be manual or automatic.
Common soldering station "Weller"
For a home network with a stable supply voltage, manual heating control is sufficient, depending on the brand of solder.
The soldering iron wears unevenly. When burned out, irregularities appear on the surface of the tip. From time to time it needs to be sharpened and tinned.
Copper dissolves in solder when heated, and prolonged heating without use leads to the formation of a layer of oxides. Therefore, it is recommended to turn off the soldering iron or reduce its temperature during pauses.
Securing the soldering iron tip
The presence of a removable tip allows it to be removed and sharpened. But in many designs, additional fixation is required, since the rod begins to dangle and fall out. It has a metal sleeve that fits on top. If it is constantly removed when replacing the tip, the strength of the connection will decrease. You can leave the bushing in place, but over time it will jam and it will be difficult to remove the tip.
To create a reliable connection between the soldering iron body and the tip, the sleeve is replaced with another so that it can be easily put on. Then a hole is drilled in it and an M3 or M4 thread is cut. After the sleeve is put on the tip, a screw is screwed into it, creating a reliable connection and preventing the tip from turning. The figure below shows a soldering iron disassembled (a) and assembled (b), where a regular nut is used as a sleeve.
What does the fastening of a replacement soldering iron tip look like?
A removable tip is also necessary for a soldering iron to regulate its temperature. If you insert it into the heater at different depths, the temperature of the working part will change.
Periodically it is necessary to remove scale from the joint. When it accumulates, the operating temperature of the soldering iron decreases. Cleaning is carried out as follows:
- remove the copper rod from the soldering iron using pliers;
- remove scale with emery cloth;
- apply a layer of graphite to the rod by rubbing a pencil lead on it;
- remove the remaining scale from the hole in the heating element by lightly tapping it;
- install a new or return the old copper rod and secure it with a bushing and screw.
The insulation of the soldering iron should be checked periodically. To do this, set the ohmmeter to the megaohm limit (1-10 mOhm) and measure the resistance between the tip and the pins of the soldering iron plug, which should be infinitely large.
Soldering lessons.
How to solder correctly with a soldering iron
The basics of soldering for beginners are collected in this video.
The soldering iron burns out over time during operation. Its tip must be periodically sharpened and tinned. If there is a non-burning coating, the working surface is cleaned with special chemicals, after which it is also tinned. During operation, it is important that the soldering iron does not overheat.
Source: https://jelectro.ru/instrument/payalnik-podgotovka-ukhod.html
Soldering iron tip temperature 100 W
A soldering iron is a hand-held tool used in tinning and soldering to heat parts, flux, melt solder and bring it into the contact area of the parts being soldered. The working part of the soldering iron, usually called the tip, is heated by a flame (for example, from a blowtorch) or electric current.
Soldering irons with periodic heating [edit | edit code]
- Hammer and butt-end soldering irons are a massive working tip mounted on a relatively long metal handle, the length of which ensures safe handling of the tool. To perform non-standard work, soldering irons of this type are equipped with shaped tips. These soldering irons are heated by external heat sources - mainly fire from gas or gasoline burners [1]. This is the oldest type of soldering iron, known since ancient times.
- Arc soldering iron - the soldering iron is heated by an electric arc, periodically excited between a carbon electrode placed inside the soldering iron and the tip. An arc soldering iron weighing 1 kg heats up to a temperature of 500 °C at a voltage of 24 V for 3 minutes, power consumption is 1.5-2.0 kW.
Soldering irons with constant heating [edit | edit code]
- Electric soldering irons have a built-in electric heating element that operates from the mains, from a step-down transformer or from batteries.
- Gas - soldering irons with a built-in gas burner (flammable gas is supplied from a built-in liquefied gas canister, or, less commonly, gas is supplied through a hose from an external source).
- Liquid fuel soldering irons are similar to gas ones, but heating is carried out by the flame of burning liquid fuel.
- Thermal air - in them, the parts are heated and the solder is melted by blowing them with a stream of hot air. In this way, it resembles an industrial hair dryer, but, unlike it, a thin stream of air is used.
- Infrared - heating is carried out by a source of infrared radiation.
Soldering stations [edit | edit code]
When assembling electrical appliances and electronic devices in industry and laboratory conditions, soldering stations are used, which provide additional opportunities and convenience for soldering, primarily, temperature control of the soldering iron tip with the ability to quickly set different temperature values. In addition, there are soldering stations for hot air or infrared soldering, desoldering (equipped with solder suction), with automatic solder and flux feeders, etc.
The design of a soldering iron with an internal heater is based on a miniature heating element placed in a hole drilled in the tip. Thus, it is as close as possible to the soldering point, and heat loss is minimized.
Often, a film heater on a ceramic substrate, placed in a sealed housing made of thermally conductive ceramics, is used as a heating element. The advantages of such a heater are a long service life and reliable tip insulation.
Such soldering irons are usually equipped with a temperature sensor and are used as part of soldering stations.
Rod soldering iron [edit | edit code]
The design of the most common version of an electric soldering iron in everyday life is a metal casing equipped with a plastic or wooden handle, in which a tubular heating element (heater) is placed. A replaceable, usually copper rod (“tip”) is placed inside the heater at one end, sharpened at the end protruding outward to a cone or dihedral angle. The protruding end of the tip is the working end and is tinned.
The heater is a wire made of nichrome or other alloy with high resistivity and resistance to oxidation at high temperatures wound on a ceramic or metal tube wrapped in mica sheet.
Modern soldering irons of this type sometimes use a film heater sprayed onto a ceramic tubular base, or a ceramic volumetric heater. The heater is connected to a live cord that passes through the handle and is connected to the mains or a step-down transformer.
There is a design option in which a metal core is placed inside the heating element, equipped with a threaded hole into which a replaceable tip is screwed.
Working with a soldering iron
After turning on and heating the end of the tip above the melting temperature of the solder (about 5-6 minutes), the soldering iron is ready for use.
Before soldering, flux is applied to the joint to be joined, dissolving oxide films on the surface of the parts, which ensures better wetting of the metal surface with solder.
Rosin or its alcohol solution is often used as a flux for soldering small parts made of copper and copper-based alloys, tinned steel parts. For other metals and alloys, other (active) fluxes can be used, for example, phosphoric acid or an aqueous solution of zinc chloride. After soldering using active fluxes, the soldered seam is thoroughly washed from flux residues to avoid corrosion.
When soldering electronic (for example, printed circuit boards) and electrical devices, active fluxes are not used, since even traces of unwashed flux, due to its electrical conductivity and hygroscopicity, can completely disrupt the operation of the device. When soldering these devices, non-conductive fluxes are used; the most popular are rosin or alcohol-rosin flux.
When you turn it on for the first time, a new soldering iron that has not been turned on before smokes with a characteristic burning smell, which goes away after a few minutes.
This is not a sign of a malfunction and is due to burnout of the adhesive tape or adhesive layer that was used to glue the mica sheets together during the manufacture of the heater and traces of grease on the parts of the soldering iron.
During the manufacturing process, some types of products are coated with a special paint that protects the metal casing from corrosion during storage in retail chains and warehouses. This color can be easily removed after initial heating.
The power and operating temperature of the tip of some soldering irons drop slightly over time, as surface oxidation of the heating element wire occurs, which causes a decrease in its cross-section.
To compensate for this, the diameter of the wire in the manufacture of a soldering iron is initially chosen to be slightly larger [ source not specified 2371 days ], and to maintain the desired temperature, during critical soldering, an external voltage regulator is used, for example, an autotransformer or a rheostat, or the tip is thermostatically controlled with a temperature regulator.
Source: https://vi-pole.ru/temperatura-zhala-pajalnika-100-vt.html
What should the soldering iron temperature be?
When water communications consisting of plastic pipes are assembled, temperature becomes the most important parameter. It must have certain values to achieve a strong and reliable connection.
Today, the technology for laying pipelines made of such materials requires compliance with a certain temperature regime, as well as specific time values, when performing welding work. If you do not follow the recommended parameters, a rupture may appear in key areas and the movement of the water flow may deteriorate significantly.
General influence of temperature during docking work
The technological process of welding polypropylene pipes is based on heating the material to the required temperature. As a result, the plastic begins to soften. When connecting parts, diffusion of polypropylene molecules occurs. In other words, molecules merge into a compound. When the material cools, an extremely strong joint is formed.
The strength of the workpieces being welded is directly dependent on the temperature regime. If the heating is insufficient, the diffusion process will not occur. The molecules of the fitting and the pipe being welded are simply not able to get into the compatible areas. The welding will be weak and will not be able to withstand heavy loads. The pair will break and the seal of the joint will be broken.
When overheated, the structure will begin to deform. As a result, the original geometry will change. A strong influx in the form of a large roller may form inside the part. As a result, the cross-sectional diameter of the pipeline at the welding site will be significantly reduced.
For normal soldering of polypropylene pipes, it is necessary to create heating to a temperature of 255-265 degrees. The heating process must take into account several parameters:
- Part diameter.
- Room temperature.
- Heating time.
Practice has shown that heating time and part diameter are directly related.
The temperature of the room in which soldering occurs also affects this process. When parts are soldered, when removing them from the “iron” or other heating device, there is a pause before the coupling begins. To compensate for cooling at low temperatures, pp pipes need to be heated a little longer. This additional time is within 2-3 seconds. The selection occurs empirically.
It must be remembered that if you heat polypropylene pipes on a heating apparatus with a temperature setting of more than 270 degrees, the top layer of the part will become very hot. The core will not receive sufficient heating. When joining parts, the thickness of the welding film will be very thin.
How to weld polypropylene pipes manually
Welding sleeves of the device are selected taking into account the diameter of the parts. They are then inserted into the welding mirror and secured well.
Contact surfaces are cleaned of dust and dirt. For cleaning, it is better to use a cleaning fluid recommended by the manufacturer of this product. The following may help with this work:
- Chlorethylene.
- Trichloroethane.
- Ethyl or Isopropyl alcohol.
A certain temperature of the device is set. Typically, the thermistor should heat up within 250 - 270 degrees. This optimal temperature allows the correct connection to be achieved.
When the thermostat reaches the desired thermal level, the heating temperature of the welding mirror is checked. For this, a special thermal probe is used.
The pipe is cut, maintaining 90 degrees relative to the axis. If necessary, you need to clean the surface and chamfer it. Stripping parameters and chamfer depth dimensions are taken from table number one. The chamfer can be removed when cleaning the part or after it, using a special calibrated tool.
Polypropylene fittings for socket welding. Grinding depth and chamfer width.
The insertion depth “L1” is marked on the surface of the pipe. Taken from Table 2. Stripping must necessarily correspond to the insertion depth.
Insertion depth L1(mm): maximum insertion depth of the heated pipe into the fitting cup.
A longitudinal mark is applied to the outer surface of the pipe and fitting being welded. It makes it possible to avoid displacement of parts during connection.
The surface of the pipe, as well as the attached fitting, must be well cleaned of oil or dirt. After achieving the required heating of the welding mirror, the pipe, together with the fitting, is installed in special sleeves. The fittings must be inserted all the way, the pipe being welded to the full stripping depth. You need to wait a little while the parts heat up.
Source: https://MyTooling.ru/instrumenty/kakaja-dolzhna-byt-temperatura-pajalnika
Soldering station temperature when soldering
There is no universal soldering iron and soldering temperature that is suitable for absolutely all cases. Much depends on the solder, on what materials the master works with, as well as on the goals he pursues.
And in general, choosing the optimal temperature is not such a simple matter. Typically, the soldering iron tip is heated until it begins to melt the solder. But in some cases more fine tuning is required.
A few soldering rules
There is one unshakable rule: the temperature of the soldering iron must be higher than the melting temperature of the solder.
Moreover, the solder material must be completely melted before it fills the empty spaces and is evenly distributed over the surface.
If the soldering iron tip is too overheated, the solder will oxidize and the soldering seam will not be of very high quality. By the way, oxides can appear on the soldering iron itself, and in order to get rid of them, experts advise purchasing a so-called tip activator - a really very useful thing.
And if the soldering iron tip is not just overheated, but burns out, then the solder material will no longer stick to it at all. “Cold” soldering (that is, when the temperature of the soldering iron tip is less than optimal) will also not give the expected result.
If the solder material does not melt to a fluid state, the soldering area becomes dull and rough, and the connection is not very strong.
And one more important rule, suitable for any soldering: the temperature of the elements being soldered must certainly be the same.
Types of solders
The variety of solders is divided into two categories:
The soft category includes solders that have a melting point of up to 400 ℃ and relatively low mechanical strength (tear resistance up to seven kilograms per square millimeter). They can be melted with a soldering iron.
The marking of such solder always contains the abbreviation POS and numbers indicating a specific percentage of tin. As an example, it is worth citing the very common solder material POS-61, the operating temperature of which is from 190 to 260° Celsius.
POS-61 and other soft tin-lead solders are, in particular, used in radio installation. In general, when working with printed circuit boards, you must act extremely carefully.
It is better to avoid sudden heating and temperature increases, and the duration of exposure to the soldering iron should not exceed more than two seconds. This is especially true for objects such as integrated circuits and field-effect transistors.
To obtain special properties, bismuth, cadmium, antimony and other metals can be added to the composition of tin-lead solders. Low-melting solders are produced in the form of cast rods, pastes, wires, powders, tapes, as well as tubes with a diameter of 1 to 5 millimeters with rosin inside.
Among the trusted manufacturers of such solders, it is worth highlighting the brands Felder and AIM.
And one more addition: experts recommend not using metal boxes, lids, or cans for storing solders. Solders can stick to the metal - as a result, a rosin mess appears on the walls, which will not be very comfortable to work with.
Brazing alloys are characterized by the fact that they create high-strength seams. In radio installation work they are used much less frequently than fusible ones. Moreover, two subgroups of hard solders can be distinguished - copper-zinc and silver.
The former are used for soldering bronze, steel, brass and other metals with a high melting point. Interestingly, their color depends on the percentage of zinc content. And the melting temperature of, say, PMC-42 solder is 830 ℃.
Silver solders are perhaps even more durable. They are used mainly for soldering copper-brass and silver products. The melting temperature of such solders is in the range from 720 to 830 ℃. When working with such materials, a torch is used.
Melting various materials
The craftsman may well need to solder copper - for example, we are talking about heating pipes or other products made from this non-ferrous metal.
You can work with a soldering iron with copper and its various alloys using different solders, both soft and hard. At the same time, the temperature of soldering copper elements with soft solders is 250-300 ℃, and with hard solders – 700-900 ℃.
What should be the temperature of the soldering iron tip if you need to solder, say, polypropylene products? In this case, the optimal temperature will be +260 ℃, and the conditional permissible range is from +255 to +280 ℃.
But it is worth noting that if you overheat the soldering iron above 271 ℃ and reduce the heating time of the tool, the surface of the soldering zone will warm up much more than the inside. This means that the resulting sealing film will be very thin.
Useful measuring devices
Practice shows that if the temperature of the tip of the soldering iron used is selected correctly, then, when it cools down, the soldering area will have a characteristic mirror shine.
Conversely, the porosity and dullness of the soldering area indicates that the procedure was not carried out very well.
It is quite possible to find out the optimal melting temperature experimentally. This requires special soldering iron heating regulators (laboratory transformers). There is, however, an easier way to regulate the temperature - change the length of the tip.
But this method is perhaps only relevant for homemade soldering devices. In any case, the master has the opportunity to find out in advance at what temperature or at what length of the tip the solder appears to have a mirror shine.
Armed with this knowledge, you can begin real responsible work.
If you have the financial means, it is worth purchasing a special thermometer (sensor) for a soldering iron, which measures and calibrates the operating temperature of the tool.
There are quite a lot of such sensors now. And it will not be difficult for anyone who wants to purchase the desired model online or offline. They quickly and accurately measure the temperature of a soldering iron tip using a thermocouple (thermoelectric converter).
When choosing such a thermometer, you should pay attention to such characteristics as resolution, measurement range (for example, it can be from 0 to 700 ℃), accuracy, dimensions, and possible power sources.
However, simply measuring the temperature is not enough. It is important that the soldering iron keeps it unchanged during possible power surges in the network - that is, a special stabilizer is needed.
You can make such a device yourself - there are quite simple diagrams available in the public domain. In addition, there are now soldering irons and soldering stations with a built-in stabilizer.
And many professional soldering stations allow you to accurately set the temperature and desired soldering mode by simply pressing buttons or flipping a toggle switch. This greatly simplifies the work process and allows you to always be sure of a good result.
The main task of the soldering iron when soldering various contacts is to melt the solder and apply it to the desired location. Naturally, this requires a soldering iron temperature that would be higher than the melting point of the consumables.
Taking into account the fact that it can vary greatly for different metals and their alloys, tools with different powers are produced that are capable of working in different parameters. After all, too high rates turn out to be just as harmful to a quality connection as low ones.
Only in the first case will everything lead to the melting of the solder to a state where it can no longer work, and in the second, it will not be able to melt normally for connection.
Source: https://ravon-r2.ru/temperatura-pajalnoj-stancii-pri-pajke/
The soldering iron tip is the most important component of a power tool.
Such a simple device as a soldering iron has its own design and component parts. The smallest in size, but not in importance, is the sting. The soldering iron’s ability to perform its tasks depends on its quality.
Working tip properties:
- Thermal conductivity. The most important characteristic. It is this that determines how much heat from the heater will be transferred to the work area;
- The ability to accumulate thermal energy. The characteristic is mainly related to the size of the sting. A tip that is too thin will instantly give off heat when it comes into contact with a massive part;
- Strength, or more precisely, wear resistance. No one is going to hammer nails with a soldering iron. However, over time, the tip wears out - under the influence of aggressive fluxes or mechanically;
- Protection from oxidation. Even the thinnest film of oxides sharply reduces the ability of the tip to transfer thermal energy to the soldering site.
The ideal material for the manufacture of a soldering tip (from the point of view of thermal conductivity) is copper or its alloys. The reverse side of the moon is extremely low wear resistance and susceptibility to corrosion.
The direct opposite is steel and nickel alloys. High strength, no corrosion - but disgusting thermal conductivity.
Therefore, manufacturers produce soldering iron tips from various materials, adapting to market demands. They also do not stop experimenting with composite materials, giving tools ever higher consumer properties.
Copper
You can make a good sting from a copper rod
The vast majority of soldering irons are equipped with just such tips. The copper tip is quite versatile and has outstanding thermal conductivity. And most importantly - excellent heat capacity.
This means that when working with massive copper contacts or soldering thick cables, the accumulated heat will not dissipate throughout the workpiece, sharply reducing the temperature. Therefore, for soldering volumetric parts, soldering irons with a copper tip, which weighs several hundred grams, are chosen.
It will take a lot of energy to heat it up, but the mass of the tip will ensure a stable temperature during operation.
There are more elegant copper tips. The classic version of a 40-60 W soldering iron, familiar to many.
With the help of such a tip, you can solder almost everything, with the exception of modern electronic components - planar microcircuits, SMD modules, etc. You can, of course, give a refined shape to the tip - but then the tip will wear out instantly.
The problem with copper is its softness and low heat resistance. At high temperatures the surface quickly oxidizes. Cleaning the tip in the traditional way does not lead to anything. You have to clean it mechanically, using a file or sandpaper. At the same time, the tip rapidly decreases in size.
To maintain the working condition of the surface, it is covered with a thin layer of solder.
How to properly tin a sting
It is necessary to wipe it with a damp sponge, heat it and clean it with sandpaper or a file. Then immerse it in a jar of rosin and place a piece of solder on top. The tin will spread on its own over the clean surface of the tip.
Another way is to rub the heated tip on wood that has flux and solder on it. It is better to choose a tree of coniferous species.
If this is not done, soldering becomes impossible regardless of the heating temperature.
The second serious problem is corrosion from aggressive fluxes at high temperatures. You should not think that acidic compounds are to blame. Rosin also has a detrimental effect on the surface of copper. Over time, cavities and grooves form on the surface, which must be sanded, again losing in size.
However, with proper care and regular replacement, the red metal tip shows very good qualities. Therefore, there is no question of removing it from production.
Fireproof
In fact, this is an ordinary copper tip, only with a coating. To protect against corrosion and burning, the surface is nickel-plated or silver-plated. The problem is that nickel has poor adhesion, so molten solder will not stick to it.
That is, the classic option - scooping up a drop of tin and applying it to the contact - does not work here. You can only warm up the soldering area. Solder supply from the side is required. In reality, this means that both hands will be busy. Soldering iron in one hand, tin wire in the other.
Silver-based coatings do not have such problems. It is perfectly wetted by solder and has good thermal conductivity. But the high cost does not allow mass production of such tips. In addition, silver quickly burns out from high temperatures.
Manufacturers offer a comprehensive solution to the problem. The tip is coated with nickel, except for the working tip. More expensive coatings are applied to it, with good adhesion. At the same time, the cost remains reasonable, and the properties of the tip are improved.
Whole sets of soldering iron tips are offered, with working tips of various shapes.
On the one hand, you have to buy a whole package, on the other, wear and tear occurs much less. Another option is a multilayer tip, which uses the properties of each material for its intended purpose.
This design is not cheap, but it lasts a long time and performs its task efficiently. There are no questions about how to tin the tip of a soldering iron; this process is carried out in a factory environment and does not need to be repeated.
You will learn how to tin a soldering iron by watching this video.
Ceramic
The body is made of durable ceramics, the tip can be metal. Ceramics have thermal conductivity and heat capacity not much worse than copper. At the same time, it is stronger and not subject to corrosion. By making composite tips, manufacturers combine the best qualities of various materials into one product.
Soldering irons with a ceramic tip are more convenient and allow you not to be distracted by regular cleaning. But representatives of the so-called “old school” prefer copper tips. Although, for working with modern radio components of the SMD form factor, copper fits like a bull in a china shop. But a soldering iron with a thin ceramic tip is just right.
Composite
You can use the properties of each material exactly where they appear most clearly. Composite tips combine two, three, or four materials. For example, steel is in the form of a core for strength. Copper - as a heat-conducting material from the heating element to the working tip. Nickel – anti-corrosion coating. The tip is made of silver alloy for better adhesion to solder.
Popular: How to solder without a soldering iron, or how to replace it
Given the constantly changing soldering conditions, it is wise to have a soldering iron with replaceable tips at home. The main thing is to select the diameter and depth of the tip into the heating element.
Temperature stabilizer
Of course, quality material alone is not enough. It is necessary that the optimum temperature is maintained at the tip of the sting. To do this, a sensor can be built into his body. This option is ideal for maintaining a constant temperature in the soldering area.
In fact, such a circuit is only needed when working with elements that are sensitive to overheating. Then the temperature on the tip is set not a few degrees higher than the melting point of the solder, and you can solder without fear of damaging the parts. Most designs use a simpler scheme - with pre-set temperature without objective control.
The tip temperature regulator can be built into the housing (if the soldering iron's power supply circuit is inductive), or placed in a separate unit. This does not affect the quality of work. Moreover, the vast majority of work is performed by selecting a soldering iron according to power, that is, “by eye.”
There is a category of radio amateurs who prefer to use tools of their own design, including a soldering iron tip. As a rule, after trying various options, from expensive Japanese or German ones, and your favorite domestic copper ones, to nickel-plated nails from the Middle Kingdom, you will come to the only suitable product. Or try making a sting with your own hands.
In this case, we suggest you look at the following material:
What to make a high-quality soldering iron tip from
For production you will need:
- Access to a lathe or a familiar lathe;
- Copper rod 6-8 mm in diameter;
- A few grams of silver.
Let's make the base. We form the copper rod into a holder for the tip.
At the end we drill a hole 10-15 mm deep for M4 threads. Accordingly, we cut the internal thread.
We order a silver rod with a diameter of 5 mm and a length of 10 cm from a jewelry workshop. This will not take much money, especially since the quality of the metal does not matter; you can take the cheapest silver, even technical silver from contacts. We cut a piece 2 cm long from it, cut an M4 thread, screw it into the base and give the tip the required shape.
After processing, we obtain an excellent composite (composite) tip. The copper supplies heat to the silver tip. Silver has excellent adhesion, so solder sticks to it like glue.
The only drawback is that silver burns out over time, or dissolves in the solder.
This does not happen so quickly, but with intensive work, the tip will have to be changed every six months. When cold it unscrews easily, and when hot it sits very tightly in the threaded connection.
Source: https://obinstrumente.ru/elektroinstrument/payalnik/zhalo-dlya-payalnika.html
