How to make a soldering iron with a thin tip

DIY hammer soldering iron - Metals, equipment, instructions

It is impossible to imagine any process of assembling electronic components without the main tool - a soldering iron. However, not every electronics lover has the opportunity to buy this device, and the parameters of factory devices do not always correspond to the task.

In this article we will try to explain to you how to make a soldering iron with your own hands, without resorting to high costs.

Hammer soldering iron

First, let's look at the manufacturing process for the simplest soldering iron - a hammer soldering iron. This type of soldering iron is used for soldering large parts; it heats up over a fire, and, despite the outdated design, is still used in soldering work.

A block of copper of the required size must be flattened to give the required shape and processed with a file. We forge a holder from a steel tube and attach it to the tip. Then we select a comfortable handle - and the device is ready.

Of course, you won’t be able to solder radio parts with such a device, but it’s quite suitable for repairing a radiator and soldering large elements.

Lowest cost method

Factory-produced tips are not always suitable for soldering modern electronics, but it is not at all necessary to make a soldering iron at home with your own hands; it is enough to improve an existing industrial device - just wind a thin copper wire around the tip.

Device using a resistor

If, nevertheless, the factory device does not meet the requirements, then you can build a soldering iron yourself. To make a soldering iron in the shortest possible time, you need to use ready-made metal wire with the required resistance, which can be found in PEV-type resistors.

In addition to a strong source of energy, for example, a battery from a car or even a laptop, you will need pieces of a single-core cable and a plate of fire-resistant polymer for the holder (you can use PCB or wood).

To heat a homemade device, you need to pass current through a resistor, one of the ends of which will act as a tip.

We clean the rim of the resistor with a file and crimp it with copper wire with the insulation previously removed, this will give the structure strength and improve contact.

To improve the efficiency of the soldering iron, one resistor lead should be as short as possible and the other as long as possible.

For the manufacture of such a simple device, the Russian MLT resistor is best suited, the quality of which is much higher in comparison with Chinese models.

Complex manufacturing method

If you have the skills of a lathe and milling machine, as well as the appropriate tools, you can use resistors with higher power to make a homemade soldering iron.

The tip for the device will need to be processed in such a way that it fits tightly into the hole in the resistor body and that there is enough space for the thread with which we will fix the rod.

It should be noted that in this case the tip of the device will not be subject to tension. You will also need to provide a comfortable handle.

Temperature regulator

An important element for a soldering iron will be the presence of a temperature regulator, which you can also make yourself. Since the soldering process always involves melting the solder, the soldering iron simply needs a regulator. Below is one of the simplest assembly diagrams.

All you need is a resistor SP5-30 placed in a dielectric housing. However, the power of the soldering iron in this case will be limited and will range from 10 to 25 watts.

Stand

Another important accessory is the stand. A stand for a soldering iron can be easily found on sale throughout the Internet, but it is much more profitable to make it yourself.

The most common type is the wire stand, which is made from a thick, cone-shaped spring attached to a wooden platform. In addition, the stand can be made from fuses mounted on a wooden or textolite base.

If you need a portable stand, then any metal plate, for example, from an unnecessary desktop PC power supply, is suitable for making it.

The methods we have considered will allow you to significantly save on many parts and accessories, as well as make the manufacturing process as simple and safe as possible.

Photos of DIY soldering irons

Source: https://spb-metalloobrabotka.com/molotkovyy-payalnik-svoimi-rukami/

How to make a soldering iron with your own hands: methods for making a homemade soldering iron at home

Among the variety of electrical connections, soldering wires occupies a special position. Any electrician will confirm that connecting radio-electronic components is unthinkable without using a tool such as a soldering iron.

Today, the production of such devices of various modifications has been launched - from industrial soldering units to miniature soldering irons used in everyday life.

It often happens that the design and power of the device do not allow the required installation to be performed, or circumstances arise when you urgently need to solder some part, but you do not have the necessary tool at hand. With a little effort and using simple components, you can make a soldering iron at home.

Homemade soldering iron: complex design

List of required materials:

• copper wire (d=1.5 mm, l=40 mm);
• a small sheet of copper foil;
• precision alloy wire (d=0.1 mm, l=300 mm);
• tin tube;
• silicate adhesive mixture or liquid glass;
• talc;
• handle made of heat-resistant material;
• electrical wire with plug.

You will also need a few auxiliary things:

• source of thermal energy (a gas or electric stove is suitable);
• metalworking tools (pliers, files, tweezers);
• small wooden or plastic spatula;
• a rag for removing the insulating mixture from the device.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

1. A pre-cut piece of copper rod is used to make a sting. In this case, it is advisable to sharpen one end at an angle of 45 degrees, but the choice of the shape of sharpening the tip remains solely at the discretion of the master. The treated area is tinned.
2. An electrical insulating mixture is prepared, including talc and silicate glue. The kneaded mass should have a dough-like structure.

   When working with such sticky material, from time to time you will have to sprinkle your hands and tools with crushed talcum powder.

3. Copper foil is tightly wrapped around the tip, while keeping the working area (10 mm) open.
4. A thin insulating layer is carefully applied to the copper surface. To make it dry faster, the future soldering iron is held above a heat source.

5. A spiral is wound from precision (nichrome) wire. It is worth noting that each turn should lie tightly. The straight end should ultimately be approximately 30 mm, and the turned end should be 50 mm.
6. Now the winding is coated with an electrical insulating compound and dried thoroughly.
7. The long end is placed on the tube so that between it and the short end there is a maximum gap approximately comparable to the diameter of the structure. The electrically insulating mixture is applied again, dried again, after which the preparation of the heating element with the tip built into it is considered complete.
8. Each protruding end of the nichrome wire is half coated with an insulating compound and dried. It is important to carefully monitor the integrity of the coating during baking. If defects appear, they are eliminated by sealing with the mixture and drying again.
9. At the final stage, all that remains is to assemble the structure.

   Pull the wire through the hole in the handle, connect the nichrome ends to the bare ends of the wire, and insulate the connection area.

10. A protective casing is placed on the heating element. One end of it is inserted into the handle, and the other is fixed with an iron cap with a hole that prevents it from contacting the copper contents of the heater. Some are limited to a clamp.

Resistor tool

How to make a soldering iron at home using a passive element of an electrical circuit? Using a resistor C5−35 V (R=20 Ohm, P=7 W), you can design a good automotive soldering iron for electrical work in the garage.

It will be powered by a twelve-volt battery. Ceramic resistor is known to be able to withstand high temperatures and has a power dissipation ranging from 3 to 150 W.

To make the element body, heat-resistant ceramics are used; thin nichrome wire serves as the working element.

Stages of work

1. Due to the fact that there is no need to make a heating element, since its function will be performed by a resistor, we immediately proceed to the manufacture of the working tip and heat conductor. One copper rod (thicker) is installed inside the resistor. It will accumulate thermal energy. The other, in turn, will become a working sting.

   If the thick rod is not tightly adjusted to the inner diameter of the heater, heat loss is possible.

2. A threaded hole is drilled at one end for the mounting screw to fit in, and at the other for the working tip. The rod is fitted to the ceramic heater and a groove is machined for the retaining ring. The structure is assembled into a single whole.

3. The resulting structure is installed in a resistor and checked. The connection to the battery is made via a fuse.
4. Make a heat-resistant soldering iron handle. The pistol type is most comfortable to hold in the hand. Two mirror parts are cut out from textolite or ebonite. Holes are drilled in them, which are needed to fix the heating element.
5. Select grooves for wiring. If desired, install a fixed switch.
6. The structure is assembled into a single device. To connect the soldering iron to the battery, you can solder a plug for the cigarette lighter connector.

   A more practical solution would be to equip the wire with universal clamps, which will allow you to directly connect the device to the battery terminals, avoiding sudden fuse blowing.

To make a soldering iron you will need the following attributes:

• stationery pen;
• MLT type resistor;
• a piece of double-sided PCB;
• steel wire (d=0.5 mm);
• copper wire with diameter (d=1 mm).

Algorithm of actions

1. First of all, remove the paint layer from the surface of the MLT-0.5 resistor. A razor blade or kitchen knife is suitable for this. If the paint does not want to peel off, then you can connect the element to a power source and warm it up slightly.
2. Prepare a cylindrical barrel. One wire coming out of it is cut off. In this place a hole is drilled for the copper wire.

   It must be remembered that contact of the wire with the cup is unacceptable, so countersinking is done with a drill with a large diameter. After this, a small cut is made for the conductive rod on the MLT cup.

3. A small ring is formed from steel wire, the diameter corresponding to the cut on the MLT.
4. A board is cut out of a piece of textolite.

   Its dimensions are calculated based on the size of the ballpoint pen and the available wire.

5. All nodes are brought together. A thin tip is installed in the seating area. You need to be extremely careful not to accidentally burn the miniature structure. A protective layer is made from mica. Thanks to it, the copper wire will not burn through the resistor.

6. Check the homemade device by connecting it to the electrical network using a regular 1 A power supply. The voltage must not exceed 15 V.

DIY mini soldering iron

The simplest miniature soldering iron can work with various small devices and parts. Using such a tool, you can easily dismantle or seal the smallest radio components and microcircuits.

The mini-soldering iron assembly diagram is quite simple and does not require special skills. The structure is assembled from scrap materials found in every home.

Power for the soldering iron is provided by a transformer from a household appliance. You can use any microtransformer from the frame scan of a faulty TV. The working tip is made of thin copper wire, which is simply inserted into the heating element.

Of course, professionals use modern soldering stations and hot air guns, but these devices are expensive and are only available to service specialists. A simple person who has managed to make a soldering iron with his own hands has the opportunity to repair an electrical device without contacting a service center.

Source: https://tokar.guru/instrumenty/payalniki/samodelnyy-payalnik-kak-sdelat-pribor-svoimi-rukami.html

TOP 5 soldering irons with a thin tip

Various types of tools can be used for soldering. Although in most cases the principle of operation and type of tools remain the same, models can vary greatly. One of the important parameters is the thickness of the tip. A soldering iron with a thin tip will not differ in operating principle from a model with a thick tip, but the features of its use will stand out. We can say that they will be used for different types of soldering.

The technical characteristics of the product will depend on the thickness of the tip. For example, the heating temperature of a thin soldering iron may be lower than that of a thick one. This is due to physical parameters, since the more metal in the tip, the higher the temperature it can withstand. Purpose also plays a role here. Such models are most often used for working with small parts. Thin contacts are easier to solder with a suitable tip, and this does not require too high a temperature.

A soldering iron for small parts will be optimized for this job. All parameters and components will meet the requirements of this type of work.

The cost can be very different, since in addition to the materials for production and the main components, the soldering iron may have additional functions that will greatly affect the price of the product.

Modern models with a temperature controller, automatic shutdown and a function for temporarily increasing the temperature are convenient to use, but cost craftsmen much more than simple options.

One of the soldering iron options with a thin tip

Advantages of a soldering iron with a thin tip

A soldering iron with a small tip turns out to be very popular for some areas. Every master can say that there is no universal tool, and therefore such a tool will become indispensable for its purposes. The main advantages include the following:

• low power consumption, since the power of most of these models is lower than that of standard home soldering irons;
• it is possible to work with very thin parts, since the dimensions of the tip allow you to delicately handle the contacts and make small additions of material to the deposited area;
• quick heating to the desired temperature;
• most models are compact and easy to use, they can easily perform complex actions;
• The tool can easily reach even hard-to-reach places that require a delicate approach.

A 20 W soldering iron with a thin tip may not become the main working tool for the home, but if you need to work with microcircuits and thin wires, then it provides all the necessary advantages.

All its shortcomings, as a rule, relate to a lack of power and difficulties in working with places where a powerful soldering iron is needed. At the same time, for the purposes of using a thin tip, models with a thin tip will have their own problems.

Based on this, all disadvantages of this type are conditional and relate to use in areas for which it is not intended.

Top 5 best soldering iron models with a thin tip

• Intertool RT This is a relatively inexpensive model that is designed for professional use. It has a simple design and there are no additional regulators. But at the same time, the tip can heat up to 750 degrees Celsius, which is well suited for small contacts made of carbide metals. Soldering microcircuits using this model is also done quickly and without unnecessary problems. This is a soldering iron with a thin tip of 60 W, which weighs only 320 grams.

Soldering iron with thin tip Intertool RT-2003

• ZD-972F. This is a whole set, which in addition to the soldering iron also includes a screwdriver, stand, solder and wire cutters. The instrument itself is designed to work not from a standard network, but from a USB output. This is a very common model in its field, as it comes with all the necessary materials in a plastic case and is affordable. It can be connected both from USB computer devices and from power supplies from smartphones and tablets.

Soldering iron ZD-972F

• YIHUA 928D. Professional model with several additional functions. Power is 65 W. This is a soldering iron with a narrow tip that has adjustable heating in the range from 90 to 480 degrees Celsius. One of its features is that the tip is made of ceramic. Along with other features, this makes the cost of the product higher than that of previous models. The weight of the product is only 104 grams, which allows it to work without any particular difficulties. The model has a special “smart” mode, which lowers the temperature if the soldering iron is not used for a long time. The LCD display and calibration function are a great addition for professionals.

Appearance of the YIHUA 928D soldering iron

• ZD 200B. Another affordable model that has low power. This is a soldering iron with only 25 V. It is used for soldering microcircuits, thanks to which it has a tip sharpened accordingly. The tip material is copper. A wear-resistant coating is applied on top of it. There is a nichrome heater here. The body is made of plastic. All these components do not stand out in any way from other models, which allows them to maintain an affordable price and ensure high popularity for this soldering iron. The tip can be replaced by unscrewing the fasteners with a Phillips screwdriver. The model is popular among professionals and radio amateurs.

Soldering iron with thin tip ZD 200B

• Goot PX. An excellent soldering iron option for small soldering among the top models. It can be used for lead-free soldering. The tip is sharpened very finely, which allows you to perform the most delicate types of work. One of the features is the presence of a temperature regulator. This is a fairly powerful 70 W model that operates in a temperature range of 250-450 degrees Celsius. The temperature controller is located directly on the handle. This is a lightweight model with compact dimensions. The kit includes a protective cap for carrying. The handle design is very ergonomic. The tips can be changed if necessary, and there is a wide choice among factory options. There is a power indicator on the case. The assembly of the model is of very high quality, but the cost of the product is above average, so it is more suitable for professionals.

Appearance of the Goot PX soldering iron

What characteristics should a soldering iron have?

When choosing a soldering iron with a thin tip, you need to pay attention to its power and maximum temperature. The maximum permissible power for models that do not have a temperature controller can be considered 60 W. This may seem like too high characteristics, which are only suitable for soldering contacts, but with such parameters it is still possible to work. It is better if it is 20-40 W, since the temperature at them will be more acceptable for work.

Having a temperature controller would be a great modern addition. Even if this makes a soldering iron with a thin tip for microcircuits more expensive, it will completely pay for itself, since you will get a universal tool that will improve the quality of soldering.

The ability to change tips is also a useful addition. The mold may become thicker over time due to remaining metal particles from work. It can always be sharpened to the desired size and bevel angle.

Conclusion

Due to their popularity, soldering irons with a thin tip have a wide variety of characteristics in different models. They should not be used for high-temperature soldering and other areas for which they are not intended. Modern models with additional functions are fully compensated by the quality of their work, despite the higher cost.

Source: https://svarkaipayka.ru/oborudovanie/payalniki/s-tonkim-zhalom.html

How to make a soldering iron with your own hands

> Tools > How to make a soldering iron with your own hands

A soldering iron is an indispensable device for radio amateurs and home craftsmen. Often there is a need to solder away from a 220 V power outlet and use, for example, a 12-volt car battery for connection. When soldering subminiature devices, mini soldering irons with special characteristics are required. In this regard, many are wondering how to make a soldering iron with their own hands, getting a convenient device and saving money.

Making a soldering iron with your own hands

Soldering iron for SMD

SMD devices are the chips found in mobile phones, laptops or tablets. The installation of circuit elements is carried out on a site with contacts, where there is a thermal barrier to prevent the spread of heat along the tracks.

Soldering iron requirements for SMD:

1. The power should not be more than 10 W;
2. The temperature of the soldering iron should not be higher than that which the microcircuit element can withstand;
3. If the tip is too cold, then a long soldering procedure can have an even worse effect on the part due to the long time of thermal exposure;
4. It is necessary to achieve heating of the tip approximately 40°C higher than the temperature at which the solder melts. The main obstacle here is the inertia of the soldering iron.

Material for making the sting

How to tin a soldering iron: preparation and care of the soldering iron

The best tip is nickel-plated copper with additives. This is the most expensive material and finding it for making a soldering iron with your own hands is problematic.

A bronze or brass tip is not suitable for soldering SMD boards because it has high thermal inertia.

A copper tip also has disadvantages: a short service life due to burning, but it can be easily changed. But copper has high thermal conductivity, and there is no better material for working with miniature circuit boards.

You can make a mini soldering iron with your own hands from an MLT-0.5 resistor. Its tube is thin enough and will not interfere with heating the tip.

What you need to prepare:

• body from a simple ballpoint pen;
• MLT-0.5 with resistance from 5 to 10 Ohms;
• piece of textolite 1-3 cm;
• steel wire 0.8 mm;
• copper wire 1 mm.

Manufacturing stages

1. Remove paint from the resistor with a sharp object. If it doesn’t clean well, connect it to a power source to warm it up;

Preparing the MLT-0.5 resistor

1. At one end of the resistor, cut off the lead and drill a hole into which a piece of copper wire is inserted - the future soldering iron tip. Straighten the second terminal and leave it, it will serve as one current conductor;

Important! The tip should fit into the hole in the ceramic body, but not touch the walls of the side metal cup. To do this, the hole in the cup should be slightly wider than in the body. By the way, only domestic resistors have a housing with holes.

1. A cut is made along the surface of the same metal cup to lay the second conductor;
2. The second conductor is made of steel wire, which is bent so that an open ring is formed in the middle, which fits tightly into the cut;

1. In the upper part of the body of a ballpoint pen or some other suitable hollow plastic rod, a board made of double-sided PCB must be installed, which is given the required shape;
2. A steel wire ring is placed over the cup and soldered to ensure good contact. This negative conductor also serves as a fastening element;
3. Current conductors are soldered to the upper part of the PCB board on both sides, and conductors are soldered to the lower part, which are threaded into a plastic tube (handle body);
4. Before placing the tip, a tiny piece of mica must be placed inside so that the copper does not come into contact with the resistor cup located at the other end. The tip can be replaced periodically.

For the supply wire it is good to take MGTF. Its insulation can withstand accidental contact with the heating element. Soldering with such a home-made tool is performed with ordinary solder and flux. A homemade soldering iron is powered from a power supply. You should get 7-10 V at the output, depending on the resistance of the resistor. It’s a good idea to use a power supply where you can regulate the voltage.

Ready soldering iron with cord

Soldering iron made from a resistor

How to make an antenna for digital TV with your own hands

The wirewound resistor is an existing nichrome heater. It is capable of heating up to 250°C when the power is dissipated into the surrounding space.

If you install a tip that will remove heat, the resistor can withstand a double power overload for a long time. The tip will heat up to 300°C.

You can increase the heating by creating a threefold overload, but then the homemade soldering iron must be turned off periodically (every 1.5 hours).

When calculating a soldering iron, the resistance and power of the resistor are taken into account. The resistor should be of the PEV type, old, but still in production. They are covered with glassy enamel, can withstand repeated overheating, and can only darken.

Important! Resistors of type C5-35B, which cannot be used, are painted on all sides. The paint is not completely removed. When a device made from them heats up, the paint melts and the tip can become stuck forever, without the possibility of replacement.

From the PEV-10 resistor you can construct a soldering iron with a power of 30-40 W. Moreover, if you power it from a 12-volt source, the resistance should be approximately 5 ohms. If the device will operate from a 220 V network, it is necessary to use PEV-20 with a significantly higher resistance. The design of such a soldering iron is similar in principle, but differs in execution.

How to make a mini soldering iron from a resistor, powered by a 12-volt voltage source, can be seen using the example:

1. It is necessary to prepare the design of the tip so that it is inserted tightly into the ceramic body. A copper rod with a diameter approximately corresponding to the size of the hole in the body is taken and drilled on both sides: for the sting, which will be a slightly smaller rod, and for the bolt for fastening. Both holes must be threaded, as well as on the surface of the tip;

1. A cut is made on the larger rod, where a ring is put on to fix the entire structure;
2. Now you need to solder the electrical cord to the terminals of the resistor and make a comfortable handle from insulating material. To protect and strengthen the copper leads of the resistor, you can attach metal clamps to the top of them.

An example of a soldering iron made from a PEV-10 resistor

Important! The operating current of the manufactured mini soldering iron should not be higher than 1 A.

These are the two simplest designs of an electric soldering iron. Experienced home craftsmen can complicate them by not using a resistor, but by making the heating element themselves.

A copper wire or rod is used for the sting. Nichrome wire can be used from an iron spiral, having previously pulled it out using a suspended weight, while simultaneously heating it with a passing current. A mica wrapper is made on the sting, and nichrome wire is wound. Such a tool requires more complex calculations.

Making your own soldering iron from a resistor will require basic skills and calculations, but you can become the owner of a cheap and convenient tool for working with microcircuits.

How to make a lamp with your own hands

Source: https://jelectro.ru/instrument/sdelat-payalnik-svoimi-rukami.html

DIY soldering iron powered by 12 V adapter

Now in stores you can buy soldering irons for every taste and color. However, sometimes you want to create something with your own hands, especially if you have enough free time. Today’s step-by-step review, which was sent to the Homius editor by Leonid Vladimirovich Orenburkin from the city of Tver, will tell you how to make a 12 V soldering iron from what almost every home craftsman who is passionate about homemade products has on hand.

Having worked for a long time as an electrician in regional power grids (regional power grids), I was forced to quit due to health reasons, so I had more than enough free time. At first I didn’t know what to do with myself. And then one day the idea came to mind to equip a small workshop. This is where my passion for homemade products began. I would like to describe the production of one of these in my article in the hope that it will be of interest to someone.

First steps: preparing the handle-body of the future soldering iron

To begin with, a wooden cutting was taken (it is better to take birch or maple), turned “to suit” and sanded. It can be given any shape, but for the first time I did not do any extra work. It should also not be made too long, although this is a matter of taste.

Wooden handle to be used as a handle

Next, a drill with a thick drill bit began to work, on which I marked the hole limiter using electrical tape. A depth of 2-3 cm was quite enough for a 12 V mini soldering iron. A hole made in the center of the handle at the end will serve to install the power socket and draw wires to the heating element.

An identical hole was drilled on the reverse side, which will serve to install the soldering iron tip.

Drill identical holes on both sides of the soldering iron handle

Preparing grooves for the power wire

At a distance of 2-3 cm from the edge where you plan to install the socket for the power plug, make markings for two holes (on opposite sides). For ease of measuring the distance, you can use the same drill with the depth marked with electrical tape. Having determined the location of the holes using a marker, we take up the drill again, but with a thinner drill.

Mark the points for drilling holes for the wires

Drilling for the wires should be done at a slight angle - this will make it easier to pull them out later. As a result, it should turn out so that the wire enters from the end and, under a slight kink, is laid further, to the opposite end of the handle, on which the soldering iron tip will be located.

Drill thinner holes at an angle to make wiring easier

Now you need to make sure that the wires stretching from the power socket along the handle do not interfere when working with the soldering iron. To do this, I cut grooves from the holes to the edge where the tip will be located.

This is easy to do using a regular stationery knife. Of course, if the handle had been made of pine, cutting along the grain would have been much easier, but such material was “discarded” immediately.

The reason for this was that additional coating of the handle was not planned, which means that there was a possibility that hands could get dirty with resin while working.

We cut the grooves into which the wire will subsequently be laid

When the grooves are cut, it is advisable to trim them a little with an ordinary round needle file. Indeed, despite the handicraft production of a 12 V soldering iron, it is supposed to work, which means that accuracy will not be superfluous here. As a result, we got a handle with holes on both sides and grooves for wires, which is ready for further work - assembling the filling of the device for soldering wires.

The handle is ready, you can start assembling

Installation of the soldering iron power socket, pulling wires

To a regular socket suitable for an adapter from an old TV, I soldered 2 wires - red and black, which were first pulled through the center, and then routed along both sides of the handle through thinner holes. The socket for connecting the plug from the power supply was inserted into the handle from the end, and then fixed with hot-melt adhesive. It cools down quickly, after which the connection becomes quite rigid.

Of course, it was possible to immediately extend the wires from the adapter by cutting off the plug, but I decided that the option with a detachable power supply would be much more convenient not only during storage, but also during operation. And, looking ahead a little, I can say that I was right.

Fix the socket in the handle using hot glue

Selecting a copper core from a cable for a soldering iron tip

The tip should not be too thick so that the power of the adapter is enough to warm it up. However, something too thin will be inappropriate here - it will bend at the slightest pressure, which is completely unacceptable. The optimal thickness was determined by trial and error. In my case, it was 2.7 mm in diameter.

The copper core for the soldering iron tip has been selected

Having cut a piece of copper wire of suitable length, I installed it in the hole prepared in the handle (on the side opposite the power socket). It was previously filled with construction plaster. This material, in addition to rigidly fixing the tip, plays another important role. By absorbing heat, it will prevent the wood from burning out under the influence of high temperatures during the operation of the soldering iron.

After the sting was in place, it was necessary to trim the plaster from the end of the handle

Selecting a power supply with a 12 V output for a soldering iron

All adapters have differences in output current, so the length of the heating element in each case will have to be measured experimentally. In my case, the output was 12 V/1 A. In fact, a miniature soldering iron does not require more current, so I was quite pleased with this power supply.

Data on the power supply that I used to make the soldering iron

Measurements of the length of nichrome sufficient for the soldering iron to work

The thin nichrome wire that was used to make the heating element should have been connected to the power supply to understand what the length should be. To do this, I screwed 2 screws into the block, between which it was tensioned. Next, using “crocodiles” that gradually moved, I determined the size at which the soldering iron will heat up to the melting temperature of the solder. In other words, nichrome should become red hot.

We experimentally measure the length of the heating element

Preparing the tip, installing the heater

Now it was necessary to isolate the tip from the nichrome. For this, a fiberglass cambric was used. It was placed on a copper core approximately to the middle, after which it was secured at the edges with thin copper wire. It is worth noting that there is no need to remove the ends - they should stick out by about 4-5 cm. This will be useful to us in further work.

The fiberglass “cover” is fixed with thin copper wire

A thin nichrome wire, previously measured in length, was wound on top of the fiberglass; its ends were twisted with copper wires located at the beginning and end of the cambric. The result was a full-fledged heating element capable of increasing the temperature of the tip to the required temperature.

It is worth noting here that the greater the length of the tip from the heater to the working edge, the longer the temperature increase will occur. If the power supply is low and the soldering iron tip is too long, it is possible that the device will not reach operating temperature at all. But here you can experiment and calculate everything so that you end up with some kind of soldering station, which has lower operating temperatures for working with microcircuits and other SMD elements.

The heating element is ready, you can proceed to the final stage of manufacturing the soldering iron

Final assembly of a soldering iron powered by 12 V

For the final stage of assembly, 2 more pieces of thin heat-resistant cambric were needed. They were dressed on “mustaches” of thin copper wires, to which a heating element was attached. Their free ends were twisted with wires coming from the power socket.

Afterwards, I thought that it would be nice to install a small toggle switch on the handle, which would allow me to turn off the voltage supply to the heater without removing the power supply from the outlet or socket in the handle of the soldering iron. But this is already specific.

If any of the readers assemble such a device, it is worth keeping this possibility in mind.

We twist the wires as tightly as possible - the contact should be good

Final touches: improving the appearance of a homemade soldering iron

In general, here you can get by with two pieces of electrical tape wrapped around the handle, which will secure the power wires. But this is a matter of taste. Someone might want to wrap the handle completely with electrical tape or use other materials that will give the product an interesting appearance; this will not affect the performance of the soldering iron in any way. In any case, all electrical work has already been completed. You can start plugging the soldering iron into the network for the first time and testing it.

Fixing the wires in two places is quite enough

What happens when you turn it on for the first time: some nuances that need to be taken into account

When a ready-made soldering iron powered by 12 V is first plugged into the network and the nichrome heats up, the fiberglass underneath begins to smoke heavily. This should not be alarmed - the insulating layer will not be able to burn out. I mentioned this because one of the “masters” tried to tell me that the soldering iron assembled using my method was inoperative. And he made this conclusion only on the basis of the appearance of smoke after the initial supply of power to the heater.

After just a minute, the fiberglass will stop smoking. After waiting a little, you can try to melt the solder. And here there is one more nuance. If the power of the soldering iron is not enough to melt a thick tin rod, this does not mean that the soldering iron is not working. Such material requires high power and temperatures. It is worth using thin tin wire as solder. Work will be more fun with her.

I suggest looking at a few photo examples of working with the new soldering iron.

Thin tin wire is what you need. Such a soldering iron can tin the wires without any problems. Ready soldering is no worse than with a factory device.

Conclusion

Today I am no longer interested in using a soldering iron purchased in a store. It’s much more pleasant to hold in your hands a device that I made myself. And it works no worse than the factory one.

I plan to independently assemble a full-fledged soldering station with a temperature sensor and temperature control so that I can resolder LEDs and other SMD elements.

And for the soldering iron, the manufacture of which is described in the article, a portable autonomous power supply is almost ready, consisting of compact 12 V batteries purchased from one of the Chinese resources.

For such work it is better to use a soldering station - there is a high risk of overheating of the elements

I really hope that my review will help some of the readers. Questions on the topic can be asked in the comments below. I don’t promise a very quick answer, but it is certain that there will be one. I would also like to know the personal opinions of readers about such a homemade product. Will it be useful for repairing household appliances in an apartment or private house? I'll say goodbye to this, thank you for your attention.

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Source: https://homius.ru/nashi-ruki-ne-dlya-skuki-samodelnyj-payalnik-12-v-iz-podruchnyh-materialov.html

DIY soldering iron

To perform non-standard work operations and to take into account personal preferences, create a soldering iron with your own hands. If the project is implemented correctly, a homemade product can surpass its factory counterpart in terms of technical characteristics.

Homemade pulse soldering iron provides quick heating of the tip

Tool structure

The soldering iron is used for controlled heating of the working area. This technology is used for fastening radio components and assembling various structures, dismantling and repair operations. There are low- and high-temperature effects with a threshold value of +450°C. However, the characteristics of a particular process are decisive.

Low power soldering irons

The design of the tool for soldering thin conductors (0.05-0.15 mm) is shown in Fig. A). The heating coil (2) is made of high-temperature resistant nichrome wire, which is wound on a ceramic cylinder. This unit is installed inside a copper tip (1), rigidly secured with a bronze nut (3). The drawing also shows the following components:

• steel tube (4);
• safety casing (5) with sealing ring (6);
• contact terminal (7);
• twisted power wire (9);
• handle (8) made of heat-resistant polymer, ebonite or other suitable material.

Figure b) shows a mini soldering iron with a metal tip (1) installed inside a porcelain tube (4). The power consumption of such soldering irons is 20-35 W. To organize the power supply, step-down transformers of 24 (48) V are used.

The following figure shows a structure for soldering wires installed in a glass insulator. The tip (4) is made of steel wire with a small radius of curvature.

To avoid excessive heat, soldering is performed in a pulsed mode. The temperature of the soldering iron in this version rises quickly, which allows you to perform operations without wasting time and saving energy consumption. The sting is created from wire, and the working area is filed to create the required contact dimensions.

The set is equipped with a power supply with a timer. They regulate not only power consumption, but also pulse duration to maintain optimal soldering parameters.

For your information. The low heat capacity of the miniature tip forces the use of high-temperature mode. If there are errors in the settings, excessive overheating of the working area cannot be ruled out.

To extend the service life of the tool, use a mount near the heating element. After wear, a new tip is installed with its help. This unit is useful for fixing special replaceable attachments. Some complex models are equipped with devices for suction of excess solder and gases. Industrial soldering irons are complemented by a mechanism for supplying consumables to the work area.

In this design, gas combustion is used to heat the tip. A clear advantage of this engineering solution is its independence from power sources. These soldering irons are convenient to use for outdoor repair work.

Such products provide contactless heating using radiation in the infrared wavelength range. With its help, a fairly large working area is formed. However, it is difficult to control with high precision. In this option, a significant part of the electricity is wasted to heat the surrounding space.

In this kit, the arrow indicates an “air soldering iron.” Its design is similar to a household (construction) hair dryer. The thick handle has a built-in fan complete with a heating element. When turned on, the working area is heated. The temperature is controlled using sensors that measure the parameters of the hot air flow. Its width and shape are adjusted with special attachments (diffusers).

For your information. In some kits, the heater and compressor are installed in a separate housing along with a power supply, measuring instruments, and regulators. The soldering iron is connected with a flexible hose.

Equipment for connecting plastic pipes

Such soldering irons are used in combination with ring nozzles. Pipes are inserted into them for a few seconds to heat them to the melting point. Next, the plastic components are connected into a single transport system with reliable sealed joints.

Physical characteristics for a homemade soldering iron

Do-it-yourself semi-automatic inverter

A homemade soldering iron can be created using different technologies. “Classic” and simple designs are discussed in detail below.

In any case, you must first formulate your personal requirements for the parameters of the product. Rate:

• power consumption;
• voltage that will be used in the conductive circuit of the heater;
• the need and accuracy of adjustment;
• dimensions of the working area (tip, nozzles).

Taking into account the collected information, it will not be difficult to determine the amount of funding and the complexity of the project.

What do you need for work?

After determining the general technical parameters, they begin to prepare design documentation. Even a simplified homemade drawing, created not in accordance with GOST, will do. In addition to sizes and materials, the list of standard components is specified:

• fasteners;
• cable products;
• tubes, rods, and other parts.

DIY power supply for 12V screwdriver

The preparatory process is adjusted taking into account the features of the chosen design. The figure shows a schematic diagram of an electronic power regulator with an output alternating voltage of 36V. The example given was created for a design load of 25-30 watts. If you need to connect a more powerful soldering iron, change the components of the key circuit (VT1).

It is clear that to manufacture such a design you will need skills in assembling and configuring radio devices. Electronic components are mounted on a printed circuit board. In addition to the regulator, you will need a +10V DC power supply of appropriate power. The assembled components are installed in a housing with ventilation holes.

Material for making the sting

It is not difficult to make high-quality copper parts at home. The relatively soft metal can be machined without any extra effort. The material has a high melting point, so it is well suited for making stings. A good alternative is brass.

For your information. Industrial products are made from ceramics and steel. Such materials are difficult to process manually without appropriate experience and specialized equipment.

Tools

The list of tools is selected taking into account the characteristics of the selected design. To make a copper tip, in addition to a blank made from the appropriate material, you will need:

• vice;
• ruler;
• hammer;
• hacksaw for metal;
• file;
• grinding wheel;
• pliers.

If threaded fastening is intended, it is necessary to prepare dies (taps). The remaining tools are selected depending on the requirements of specific processing and assembly technologies.

To create electronic blocks you will need:

• wire cutters;
• screwdriver;
• soldering iron;
• multitester

You should purchase the necessary consumables:

• solder and flux;
• varnishes, paints for creating decorative and protective coatings.

Stages of making a soldering iron with your own hands

DIY digital TV antenna

The following algorithm explains how to make a soldering iron with your own hands:

• choose a design that is best suited for subsequent work operations;
• create drawings;
• purchase factory parts, blanks, and consumables from the list;
• Use the instructions below to assemble the soldering iron.

Homemade hammer soldering iron

Such tools are used for soldering thick wire harnesses, repairing dishes, and connecting large parts. The specific name is explained by the characteristic shape of the sting. The power of such modifications reaches 150-200 W.

Taking into account the massiveness of the tip, it is recommended to pay special attention to the reliability of the fastening unit

The simplest miniature soldering iron

A functional autonomous heater can be created from a standard gas lighter. A wire bent into a spiral is attached to its body with tape. The following picture demonstrates how to make a soldering iron in a few minutes from scrap materials.

“With a slight movement of the hand” the lighter turns into a working tool

Soldering iron with a resistor as a heating element

Construction components:

• thick copper wire (sting);
• a powerful resistor (10W, 15 Ohm) that acts as a heating element;
• power supply (12V);
• handle made of wood or other dielectric.

Soldering iron made from wire resistor

To create this design you will need a resistor of the “PEV” series. By changing the current (voltage), the required power is selected.

Table of technical parameters of serial PEV resistors

Tool from a tin can

For convenient work with a heated soldering iron, a special stand is useful. When creating such a product, you can provide places for storing a reserve supply of solder and rosin. The wooden base will prevent damage to the furniture.

A device for a soldering iron from a tin can and other improvised means

Precautions and safety precautions

When making a soldering iron, standard safety rules are used:

• grinding and some other processing operations are performed using glasses and other personal protective equipment;
• The soldering iron is connected to the power supply after a thorough check;
• If any malfunctions are detected, immediately stop using the tool.

Given the high temperatures in the work area, access by children and unauthorized persons should be limited.

Source: https://amperof.ru/sovety-elektrika/payalnik-svoimi-rukami.html