How to make a mini metal lathe with your own hands

Homemade metal lathe with your own hands: instructions, materials and assembly features

Manufacturing of metal products is a progressive business that has no competition in the market. It is not surprising that more and more people are studying the technology of creating parts of varying complexity, but such work requires a lathe. Although an industrial type unit is safe, reliable and easy to use, not everyone can buy it. Therefore, many people assemble the machine themselves. This requires appropriate instructions, materials and a little patience.

In a household, a lathe is an indispensable thing. Of course, it is better to buy an industrial unit that will be reliable and durable, but this is an expensive thing. In addition, the industrial installation is bulky and cannot be placed in a residential area.

Assembling the machine is a good option to save money and space. It will not be as functional, but will do an excellent job of processing metal parts, cutting threads, rolling corrugated surfaces and creating the necessary geometric shape.

Even a novice in turning can master such a device. Easy controls allow you to handle metal parts without outside help and constant questions. The minimum dimensions allow such a unit to fit on a small table, and the materials from which it is assembled can be easily replaced with new ones in case of breakdown.

Homemade assembly expands the choice of installation type and makes it multifunctional in terms of processing various materials . Some machines are suitable for processing wood, while others are better at processing metal material of varying qualities. At this stage, it is important to decide on your preferences and the purposes for which it will be used.

Design and principle of operation

Before you start assembling a homemade lathe, you should study the simplest installation. The connection of various components and the working mechanism will give more understanding during assembly and during operation. In addition, there will be something to rest on in the event of deformation or breakage of the homemade installation.

The main parts of the mechanism include:

• frame;
• slave and leading center;
• electric drive;
• two grandmothers;
• stop for cutting tool;
• a vise or similar device for holding material.

Industrial units differ slightly in design, but some parts are easy to replace with analogues. For example, the bed acts as a place for attaching the main mechanism.

Usually this is a large metal case, but in the case of self-assembly, a strong, small frame is used. The tailstock moves along the frame or, as is commonly called in the lathe industry, the “base.”

The headstock is installed to accommodate the main equipment unit and is secured in a stationary position.

Special attention should be paid to the transmission center, because it connects the drive center to the electric motor. Usually it is in this part that the main breakdowns lie. Through this part, the voltage required to rotate the workpiece is transmitted.

Assembling homemade turning equipment involves the use of high-quality and durable materials. A metal base, corners and profiles made of durable steel are better suited for the frame. This will allow you to securely fix the installation centers. Some experts prefer a wooden frame, but this material is more suitable for devices with low power and performance. Otherwise, the wood will quickly deform and the fixed center will move.

Motors with a power of 200 watts or more are installed on a lathe The weakest are able to cope with wood processing, but no more. It is from these criteria that one should proceed, because the motor directly affects the power and productivity of the machine. The more powerful the motor, the faster and more accurately it can process parts. To process metal parts, you should install a powerful and reliable motor.

The last thing to pay attention to is the rotation method. Homemade machines use a chain or belt design. The latter option is used more often because of its reliability and ease of replacing a worn belt. In addition, the torque when using belts is better and more uniform than when using chains.

There are models without a transmission part . Typically, this design is built so that the driving center is attached directly to the electric motor shaft. Various diagrams and videos of assembling a metal lathe will help in this difficult task.

One of the features of the installation assembly is the suppression of vibration, which is caused by the operation of the motor. To absorb it, a leading and driven center is installed, but the mechanism can be changed. The idea is to use one driving center, but add a jaw chuck or faceplate.

With an electric motor, things are not so simple either. Many years of practice show that it is best to refuse to choose a commutator type of electric motor. The reason is simple. The engine operates in such a way that the torque increases in the absence of load, even without a command from the turner. At a certain point, the mechanism and design of the machine simply cannot withstand the load, and the parts and workpiece fly off in different directions.

Such “fire” with metal parts will greatly harm the environment in an apartment or house, not to mention the injuries that can be caused to a person during work. If you plan to install a commutator type of motor, you must take care in advance of a special gearbox that will prevent uncontrolled acceleration.

The best option among electric drives is the asynchronous type . The advantage of this system is that it is resistant to loads and does not change the rotation speed without control. This significantly reduces the risk of machine deformation.

In addition, its power is enough to process parts about 70 cm wide and up to 10 cm in length. For some materials, such power will be unnecessary, so the electric motor is selected exclusively for the material and size of the parts that will be processed.

The more complex the shapes, cuts and carvings, the faster the rotational effect should be.

The driven center, as already noted, must be stationary, but there are cases when it is made rotating. This will not give the best result, but you will have to replace it regularly.

Typically, when it comes to self-assembled machines, the driven center is made of a metal bolt, the threaded section of which is sharpened to a cone. Next, the prepared part is installed in a thread pre-cut on the tailstock. Its stroke is 2−3 cm.

This setup allows the workpiece to be pressed between two centers of the lathe.

Selection of power equipment

Power equipment is one of the main parts in the machine, which, in principle, starts the work process. The processing of parts depends on the power of the electric motor. There are two categories of electric motors that are suitable for installation on the machine:

• for working with small parts with a power of 500 to 1000 watts;
• for working with large workpieces with a power of 1500 to 2000 watts.

Naturally, these are symbols, and not only the size of the workpiece plays a role, but also its brand. Carbide products require high impact power to produce the final product.

A homemade lathe does not necessarily have to have a powerful electric motor , since many people process wood or assemble a simple grinder. In this case, even electric motors of a sewing machine are suitable. The drive is simply mounted on the unit, and then the hollow shaft and belt or chain drive are connected. A shaft is connected to a pulley, which is secured to a key. The pulley is necessary, because the workpiece will be installed on it for further processing.

The shaft allows you to make the machine multifunctional thanks to various transitions. Some install a sanding disc, others are suitable for drill bits. Everything can be easily replaced depending on the purpose of processing the blanks.

Power mechanisms are easily connected to the installation, but if you do not have the necessary skills and experience, it is better to invite a specialist. This provides reliability and electrical safety, because electricity will flow to the unit, which is made of metal. When working with it, even a minor error in installing the electric motor can lead to electric shock.

Build process

The simplest lathe that you can easily make with your own hands is a bow lathe. It is suitable for processing metal workpieces of low strength grade. That is, the products are sharpened, the structure is turned. Particularly popular are sharpening knives, making keys and creating parts for passenger cars.

To assemble the unit you will need:

• welding (if necessary);
• wooden or metal material for the frame;
• electric drive;
• beams.

To begin work, you will need to prepare two simple wooden posts to which the bolts will be attached. The machine frame is attached to the bolts. The frame is often made of wood, but more reliable materials are graded metal or steel channels. The metal construction is durable and reliably holds the mechanism in place without moving it during operation.

The next step is the manufacture of a tool rest, which is responsible for the stability of the cutter when working with metal products. It’s easy to make such a handy yourself. All that is needed is to glue two planks at right angles and connect the resulting structure with screws.

A thin metal plate is installed on the lower part of the tool rest, which will prevent the working tool from changing its shape during rotation. Depending on the frequency of operation of the machine, the metal plate will need to be replaced when it becomes deformed.

A board that stands horizontally is needed to control the movements of the tool rest. A slot is made in it.

There should be no issues with the manufacture of the tailstock and headstock. These are simple parts that even a beginner can make.

In any case, on the Internet there is a large number of all kinds of videos and instructions that clearly show how exactly the headstocks are made and what material is best to choose for this.

The chucks for the headstocks are made from ready-made cylinders that are suitable in cross-section to the design of the machine. Sometimes cartridges are made independently by welding several sheets of iron.

Assembling a mini metal lathe yourself is not at all difficult. Basically, you should be patient and study videos and literature that describe in detail the features of assembling a home machine.

In this work, the main thing is not to rush, select durable material and follow safety precautions. In moments when there is a lack of knowledge, and especially when it comes to installing an electric drive, it is better to turn to specialists.

All other stages of assembling a lathe are easy to handle, even if you have no experience in this matter.

Source: https://tokar.guru/stanki-i-oborudovanie/dlya-raboty-s-metallom/osobennosti-sborki-tokarnogo-stanka-po-metallu-svoimi-rukami.html

How to make a mini metal lathe yourself?

If you need to make a complex device for your home or garden, it often becomes necessary to turn a cylindrical surface. A mini metal lathe can provide assistance when performing such work. You don't have to buy it. Simple equipment of this type can be made with your own hands.

There are several options for creating such a machine. Much depends on the tasks that need to be solved with its help.

Tasks for turning equipment

Cylindrical and conical parts are produced using turning. Here the principle of rotation of the part relative to the cutting tool is implemented. In all other types of processing, the workpiece does not move.

When turning, the following operations are performed.

1. The cylindrical surface is turned. If necessary, steps are made on it: one or more cylinders of different diameters are placed according to the designer’s ideas.
2. They sharpen ledges and grooves for stops or installation of fixing rings or washers.
3. Boring internal cylinders or conical surfaces.
4. Threads of the required diameter are cut with a certain pitch. It is placed inside or outside the part.
5. Using an auxiliary tool, coaxial holes are drilled, countersinks and reamers are used to achieve the required accuracy and cleanliness of processing.
6. If necessary, knurling is used to give a special corrugation to the surface or to roll a thread of a special profile.
7. Having blanks, thin-walled parts are made from metal or plastic materials using presses using plastic deformation.
8. In furniture production, products of complex shapes are often machined; they are called shaped surfaces of rotation. Manufacturing is carried out according to special templates or programs.

Purpose of the equipment

In the technology of processing materials by cutting, it is customary to distinguish processing installations by accuracy classes. The main criterion is the material that needs to be given certain shapes and parameters:

• Wooden blanks are turned on machines that provide accuracy up to 1 mm.
• Structural steel products are sharpened with an accuracy of 0.05 mm.
• On high-precision machines (processing products made of tool steels) equipped with micrometric measuring tools, it is possible to achieve performance up to 0.005 mm.

Woodworking equipment is created for home use, and if it is necessary to work on metal blanks, metal machines are needed. The main differences are in the drive for the tool.

If you need to turn a wooden part, use a stop. The tool is rested on it. Longitudinal and transverse feeding is performed manually.

When processing metal, you have to counteract significant resistance forces. It is quite difficult to hold the cutting edges with your hands. Therefore, auxiliary devices are used that help stabilize the position. Machine tool builders have a concept of AIDS strength.

This abbreviation is deciphered as follows: machine, fixture, tool, part. All these elements must maintain a certain rigidity, then the required accuracy during processing is guaranteed.

Main nodes

Diagram of a screw-cutting lathe:

The main components and parts of a lathe are:

1. All elements are placed on the bed. It is the basis for all equipment. Its strength guarantees the precision of workpiece processing. Industrial designs are cast from malleable or modified cast iron. Then guides are machined along which auxiliary devices can slide. To ensure stability, they try to make this element massive and additionally attach it to a powerful base. Anchors are used to secure the foundation.
2. The headstock is equipped with a spindle. A cartridge or drive mechanisms are installed on it. The gearbox is located inside the headstock. If necessary, the chuck rotation speed can be low or high.
3. There is also a feed box at the bottom of the headstock. It is needed to organize the movement of the tool.
4. The tailstock is installed on the back side of the frame. The most commonly used tool is a quill. It is placed coaxially with the headstock spindle. To process long workpieces, a cone is placed here. It can be stationary or rotating in bearings. You can place drills or threading tools here. A special handwheel allows for longitudinal feed.
5. The support is located on the side of the bed. It moves along the guides of the bed. There are devices for fixing cutters installed in a tool holder (a special device for installing several types of tools). The support has auxiliary devices that allow longitudinal and transverse feeding of the tool during processing. By setting the conditions of movement, it is possible to process the surface of parts along a complex profile.

The following are used as auxiliary devices of the machine:

• pump for supplying lubricating coolant (coolant) to the processing zone;
• pallet, chips are collected here, coolant is drained here;
• local illumination helps the turner to direct the lighting to the cutter and the part;
• The protective screen will protect a person from chips, moisture and other dangerous elements.

Making a mini lathe

You can make a small tabletop machine for your home. There are several options for creation. You can independently create a product based on disks cut from a thick-walled pipe or round timber with a diameter of 120 mm.

All parts for a homemade mini lathe are turned on industrial equipment. A 1A616 screw-cutting lathe and a 2A135 drilling machine are used. You will need a semi-automatic welding machine; it can be used to weld body parts.

When all the necessary parts have been turned, it is necessary to assemble them into a single structure.

The parts of the future tabletop lathe are assembled on the assembly table.

It was decided to make the structure from flanges machined from round timber with a diameter of 120 mm. To make them easier, a central hole of Ø 55 mm is drilled in them. There are three holes Ø 20 mm.

Additional holes for threaded fasteners are drilled at the end. M6 screws can be used to secure the remaining parts in a given position.

A bronze bushing is pressed in for the future lead screw. Internal Ø 16 mm.

The bed guides are made of ductile cast iron. They have longitudinal grooves. The cylindrical part allows it to be fixed in the flange holes.

The guide is inserted so as to combine all the existing elements.

To maintain a given distance, spacer bushings are used. They are installed in the spacer between the flanges.

The second guide is made exactly the same as the first.

Having assembled the base for the headstock, proceed to assembling the rear one.

The frame is tightened with nuts. The foundation of the future bed has been created.

The machine will stand resting on the front supports. They are secured with screws to the flanges.

Support bushings move along the guides. The caliper and tailstock will be mounted on them. The long sleeve acts as a guide, and the short one acts as a support. The grooves on the rollers do not allow them to move.

Structurally, the support bushings are made of different lengths. This solution allows you to increase the working stroke.

The length of the processed parts can be sufficient so that the parts have dimensions up to 250 mm.

The caliper platform is secured with M6 screws.

The holes for the platform are drilled in place. This part is made individually. If you try to make it only according to the drawing, a jamming effect may appear.

By analogy, the tailstock platform is made. It is also drilled in place. It is necessary to ensure sliding movement along the guides.

It is necessary to ensure the rigidity of the frame. A special cylindrical half ring is machined for the headstock. It is bolted to the flanges.

The movement of tools on the support or tailstock is carried out by a lead screw. A rectangular thread with a slight slope (12.5 ⁰) is machined on it. When the lead screw rotates, the parts attached to it move forward or backward. Depends on the direction of rotation.

A hole with a pressed bushing was created for the lead screw.

To ensure that the screw rotates freely, but does not itself move along its axis, thrust bearings are used. They are placed in front and behind the rear support.

To prevent axial movement of the lead screw, a locking sleeve is installed. It is secured with an M6 bolt. Now the screw will not move along the axis, but it can rotate.

A vernier (a device with notches) is placed on top of the fixing sleeve. One turn of the screw moves the caliper or tailstock 10mm. Using the scale as a guide, precise displacements can be made in the longitudinal direction.

To rotate the lead screw, a handwheel is installed. The small handle allows you to easily rotate the flywheel.

Risk helps you navigate. Looking at it, the desired axial displacement is set.

The machine bed is assembled. Now you need to install the headstock. The part will be recorded in it.

Transverse movement guides are installed on the plates.

The headstock is mounted on top. The picture shows a pulley block, a three-jaw chuck and a central bushing.

The pulleys can be easily removed and installed on the spindle.

The spindle itself is installed inside the central bushing.

There are radial bearings between the spindle and the bushing. They allow free rotation.

The central bushing is bolted to the frame.

After installing the bearings, a spindle with a three-jaw chuck is mounted. A hole Ø 35 mm is machined inside the spindle. If necessary, workpieces of smaller diameter can pass through it.

The machine is ready. The drive is carried out through V-belts from an electric motor installed to the side.

DIY mini lathe.

Manufacturing a machine based on an electric drill

If you need to turn small-sized parts, the machine can be made from an electric drill. Of course, it will not be possible to turn a large part, but small products can be made on a small device. It won't take up much space in the workshop.

A small machine, the maximum part diameter is 13 mm. The frame is welded from 60 mm channel. To fix the electric drill, a ring mounted motionless on a support is used. This is how the headstock is created. The tailstock can be moved along the channel.

The design is made in such a way that the enclosing fragment of the profile pipe has a sliding fit along the channel.

The lead screws are machined from Ø 14 mm rod. They are threaded M14.

A tool holder is made for installing cutters. It can be installed in four positions. If necessary, the turner will fix 4 different cutters in it.

To deploy the desired cutter, a central hole is drilled. It is loosened and the tool holder is turned.

A support is installed on the frame. It can also slide along the guides of the bed. Determine the position of the longitudinal feed lead screw relative to the headstock.

The transverse feed of the tool holder will be provided by the lead screw. It is installed inside the caliper.

A tool holder is placed on top. The main elements for the tools are placed in place.

An electric drill chuck is used to secure the part. The power tool belt is secured in the headstock ring.

The machine is almost ready. To keep it stationary, there are holes on the legs of the frame. They secure the machine to the table.

A pass-through cutter can be used to grind the surface of a workpiece. It is slowly moved towards the headstock.

After replacing the cutter, transverse turning is carried out. Now a belt is formed. So, by combining cutters, you can turn products of different shapes. If necessary, the part is mounted in the tailstock. To do this, a cone is installed in the conical hole.

The machine is ready, it is convenient for miniature work. Having gained experience working with such equipment, you can think about creating a more solid device.

Source: https://metmastanki.ru/mini-tokarnyy-stanok-po-metallu

How to make a metal lathe with your own hands - instructions, drawings and video

Despite the large range of factory-made equipment, its use in everyday life is usually inconvenient or impractical. Impressive dimensions (and weight), variety of functions (some of them are unlikely to be in demand by the “home craftsman”) and a number of other points - all this makes you wonder whether it makes sense to spend money on purchasing a metal lathe? Moreover, the price of the cheapest desktop model is about 46,800 rubles.

We will look in detail at how to make a lathe from scratch, with our own hands, and then - recommendations on the choice of materials and the procedure for assembling the machine. These are useful tips and examples of drawings, since making something with your own hands is a creative process; therefore, there simply cannot be “hard” standards. The above configuration diagram is just a reminder of the structure of a lathe.

It is advisable to simplify the design of a lathe for home use somewhat. Some components can be modernized (modified), and some can be abandoned altogether. For example, complex automation, feedbox with its gears and EMF. And the movable element of the tailstock - the quill - is unlikely to be of great importance for a homemade lathe.

Selection of materials

There is a variety of advice, including that for the manufacture of individual elements of the machine, you can use wood in the form of boards and beams. Argumentation - such an assembly does not pose any big problems and is completed relatively quickly.

I would like to note that they will arise, but then, and very noticeable. A “wooden” machine will not last long. Simply put, it will work, but you will have to forget about the accuracy of the operations. A turning model of equipment, even factory-made, requires not only careful adjustment, but also systematic condition monitoring.

The slightest change in the geometry of the same slide will lead to the fact that the processing of the part will turn into a “mockery” of the sample. Wood constantly swells and shrinks. What kind of smooth movement of the carriage, coincidence of the center axes, etc. can we talk about? The same applies to the bed.

Dynamic loads will quickly lead to loosening of the base (frame, table or other component).

No matter what drawing is used to assemble a household lathe, metal products (pipes, channel or angle) should definitely be used for the manufacture of all structural elements. More complex - yes, more reliable and durable - undoubtedly. All other options are a waste of time and effort.

Machine assembly procedure

Making any mechanism (installation, unit) with your own hands is a creative endeavor. Each master is guided by the range of tasks that he will have to solve with the help of homemade equipment, the availability of free space in the garage (shed, outbuilding), and so on. But if you understand the algorithm of actions, then assembling a lathe for domestic use will not be difficult. Here are some homemade samples.

If the reader is completely satisfied with the simplest model, and there is no desire to waste time on design, the author suggests paying attention to a machine based on an electric drill. No additional explanation is required here.

It is clear that the functionality of such an installation is limited. Primarily due to the fact that you can only clamp a milling cutter or drill in the chuck. In fact, such a homemade product can be called a lathe conditionally.

But the manufacture of more “serious” equipment is worth looking into in more detail.

Table frame

It is necessary to determine whether the existing workbench (for example, in the garage) can withstand the additional load. If you plan to make a low-power lathe for processing small parts, then a workbench will be enough. When assembling the frame, two points need to be taken into account.

 First, you need to weld nickels onto the table legs. If the mobility of the machine is not required, that is, it is not expected to be moved regularly, it makes sense to hollow out holes in the concrete floor, install the frame and fill it with concrete again. The goal is to ensure maximum stability of the structure during the metalworking process.

 Secondly, you should not unnecessarily complicate the installation by using a thick steel plate as a tabletop, especially since we are not talking about powerful equipment. It is enough to weld the lathe bed to the frame. Strength will be ensured.

bed

Everything is simple here - the lathe support frame (channel or angle) is welded to size.

Drive unit

Here you have to choose one of two options:

• If it is decided to attach the spindle (clamp, chuck) to the motor shaft, then how to change its speed? And this will have to be done, depending on the hardness of the sample being processed. You can, for example, install a motor from a used electric sewing machine (speed adjustment is provided). Only the power of such a lathe will be minimal, therefore, the possibilities are limited.

• Any electric motor is characterized by the rotational speed of the shaft (rotor). It is clear that regularly replacing the engine with another during operation is impossible. Therefore, you will have to think about how to change the drive gear ratio. The simplest solution is to reinstall the pulley belts attached to the intermediate shaft, that is, use this type of transmission.

“People's craftsmen”, focusing on this technique, make machines with their own hands for 10-12 speeds. Convenience in working with dissimilar materials is ensured, and there is no need to search for components, draw up an automation circuit and assemble it.

There is another argument in favor of such an engineering solution. The main force present in machines assembled by hand is along the axis of the shaft. But the bearings of electric motors of any model are designed for a “perpendicular” load.

If the machine does not have a belt drive, you need to be prepared for frequent repairs. The reason is the destruction of the supporting parts of the engine. It is possible to avoid this, but such modernization requires separate consideration (there are several options) and will significantly complicate the design process.

What to consider when assembling

For such regulation, it is advisable to install a motor with a power in the range of 0.75 - 1.5 kW on a lathe.

 It is better not to use collector-type products. The peculiarity of such engines is that when the load decreases (for example, at the moment of retraction of the cutter), the rotor rotation speed increases significantly. The possible result is easy to predict - the workpiece will fly out and the worker will be injured.

As a rule, do-it-yourself lathes are assembled to work with small “blanks” - up to half a meter long and no more than 12 - 14 cm in diameter. For such models, asynchronous motors are considered the best (the recommended power is indicated). The stability of the speed will be ensured, and sudden changes in the rotation speed will be excluded.

Features of the manufacture of other structural elements

It is better (if possible) to take individual components from decommissioned equipment. Even if rework is necessary, it is easier than making it from scratch. Here are some options we will consider.

Sled

Turning from a rod is both difficult and impractical. The strength will not meet the requirements. It's easier to use ready-made elements. For example, shock absorber struts.

Pinol

Often, in homemade lathes, the back stop is fixed. You can use a regular bolt, having previously sharpened the end of its leg.

Tool holder

The author used 2 4 mm metal plates. To ensure that the tool is securely fixed and quickly reinstalled, a threaded axle is welded in the center of the bottom, and a hole of the appropriate diameter is welded in the top.

To clamp the cutter - a nut with a “handle”. The distortion of the upper plate when tightening is eliminated, since more holes are drilled in its corners, and vertical posts (pieces of rod) are welded to the bottom (below them).

As a result, the “clamping” plate moves straight down/up.

Useful tips

When assembling a lathe, it is better to focus on the future. In everyday life, you have to process not only metal blanks, but also other materials - plastics, plexiglass, wood. The conclusion is clear - if you are going to make turning equipment for home use with your own hands, then you need to strive for its versatility. In particular, to the possibility of changing the spindle speed over a wide range.

Recommended material processing speeds (rpm):

• wood – 700 – 2,400;
• metal – 85 – 940.

When deciding on the dimensions of a lathe, you should focus on the dimensions of the workpieces that are supposed to be processed. Specific recommendations on this point are meaningless, but it’s worth recalling the main parameters of low-power industrial equipment (in mm).

• Length – 1 150.
• Width – 600 – 620.
• The height of the spindle axis is about 180. This will allow processing workpieces with a cross-section of up to 175 mm.

In order for the lathe to be truly “working”, before drawing up its drawing, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the main characteristics of amateur models of industrial production. Linear parameters are not the main thing. There are also indicators such as the size of the caliper and the limits of its movement, the distance between centers, feed speed, and so on. This will greatly facilitate the selection of the optimal machine option for DIY assembly.

Particular attention should be paid to the coincidence of the centers of the spindle (chuck) and the quill. They should be connected by a horizontal line. Failure to comply with this condition leads to the appearance of backlashes and runouts of the workpiece during the metalworking process. The result is damage. Bad, but not critical. If you have a lot of hardware on hand, you can replace it. But the prospect of constantly acquiring new cutters (and they will certainly “fly” in such a homemade machine and quite often) is unlikely to suit anyone.

During the assembly process, questions will inevitably arise about how best to make “this or that” with your own hands. The author advises, in case of difficulty, to look at photographs of lathes available on the Internet - both factory-made and home-made. An acceptable solution will definitely be found.

Happy designing and metalworking!

Source: https://ismith.ru/tools/tokarnyj-stanok-po-metallu-svoimi-rukami/

Homemade metal lathe

The lathe has always been the most popular type of complex equipment. Many craftsmen dream of using it for turning homemade items. Stops them from having to invest money.

And ready-made models, despite their obvious advantages, often simply do not fit in a home workshop. A homemade lathe can solve these contradictions. It is built to unique requirements using simple materials.

Of course, such a design will not surpass industrial products, but the very first successful homemade product on a lathe will justify all the time and effort.

Homemade lathe

Design Features

The task of making a lathe is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. Important design elements are simply copied from industrial designs. At the same time, the scheme of a homemade lathe does not require the implementation of all assembly units present in factory models. You will need to make a frame, a support and a spindle. Other nodes will be needed only to solve specific problems.

Bed design

The basis of the working part of most machines is the bed. The massive base is intended for the installation of all mechanisms, and also serves as a damper for vibrations that inevitably arise during machining. Many characteristics of the finished product will depend on the correct choice of frame. Classic cast iron designs are not used in homemade machine tool construction due to the high complexity of the technology.

Practical applications have been found for frames of monolithic or welded type. The monolithic version provides high rigidity and vibration damping characteristics. Its main drawback is its heavy weight. A metal plate 10-20 mm thick is perfect for such a base. Depending on the purpose of the machine, it is possible to use other materials.

Monolithic bases can also be obtained using other technologies, for example, polymer concrete casting.

Bed for a homemade lathe

The welded frame is made in the form of a rectangular frame. For its manufacture, various metal profiles are most often used. The welded frame of the lathe is easy to manufacture and lightweight.

But the apparent simplicity of this solution turns into the need for additional processing of the seats for equipment installation. A compromise can be achieved by choosing a regular channel.

The necessary elements are installed on the horizontal edge of the channel; the side ones are used as a stand and a place for attaching auxiliary devices.

Machine support

To make a homemade lathe support with your own hands, you will need guides along which longitudinal and transverse movements will be performed. Industrial equipment traditionally uses dovetail slide guides. It is impossible to make such a unit in a high-quality manner at home.

Therefore, when choosing, preference is given to ready-made cylindrical or profile rails with linear bearings. The best option for constructing a movement system is to install rails with rolling bearings. They allow you to obtain high accuracy, no backlash, reliability and long service life. It’s no wonder that such rails have become very popular among machine tool manufacturers all over the world.

Their main disadvantage is considered to be only their high cost.

There is also a cheap solution. It involves the use of polished rollers from old printers or other equipment.

Caliper

Movement in the longitudinal and transverse directions is created using running pairs of the screw-nut type. In mechanical engineering, mechanisms are used that are based on threaded rods, trapezoidal screws or ball screws (ball screws). The choice of standard pins is justified only for very simple machines, as it does not provide adequate accuracy and durability.

The trapezoidal screw is more reliable and resistant to heavy loads. The best, but expensive, option involves the use of a ball screw. They are installed in precision industrial equipment. Fastening the lead screws requires the use of bearing blocks that ensure free rotational movement and the impossibility of reciprocating movement.

You can make such a block yourself, but it is better to use mass-produced models.

To connect the caliper components together, steel plates 8-10 mm thick are suitable. It is enough to process them according to the dimensions of the guides and drill the required holes.

Assembling the caliper will be reminiscent of working with a children's construction set, and the result will be no worse than that of factory models.

The spindle head is used to fasten the spindle axis, install the gearbox and feed switch box (Gearbox). The working part of the device of any box requires a large number of gears and is difficult to implement at home. A simple solution to the spindle problem would be to use a variable speed drive based on an asynchronous motor with a frequency inverter. This kit completely replaces the classic gearbox.

Spindle

A homemade gearbox for a miniature lathe is unlikely to be needed. The small size of the parts being processed will not require much physical effort from the turner, and it is much more productive to cut small threads with a tool. If you still need a homemade turning machine with a feed box, then you don’t have to look for a set of gears. Automatic feeding can be performed using low-power electric motors, which will even allow the use of a CNC device in the future.

Tools, materials and drawings

It is best to manufacture a tabletop lathe and assemble it using serious equipment. Access to milling and drilling equipment allows you to avoid some problems. If there is no such access, then all that remains is to use what is at hand. Not only lathes, but also other complex homemade products are made using a limited set of metalworking tools and an electric drill.

Of course, “direct” hands must be attached to all this.
Materials for the future design are chosen from what is at hand, trying to limit financial costs. In demand will be a metal profile for the frame, sheet metal parts, fastening units for spindle bearings and lead screws, and fasteners. You will need to purchase rail guides, drive screws, and a frequency converter.

Fortunately, today there are many companies offering their supply.

There are many possible options for how to make a mini lathe. To select a specific solution, you must clearly define what the machine will be used for and what workpieces will be sharpened on it.

Processing steel requires a different design approach than soft feedstocks. The technical specifications include the dimensions of the final product, the maximum parameters of the workpieces being processed, available resources, methods of transporting the machine and other necessary wishes.

After analyzing all the wishes, they carry out the drawings of a homemade lathe.

Drawing for assembling the machine

The necessary detailing is developed to match the available components and capabilities. If this stage seems difficult, ready-made drawings for lathes are freely available.

Assembly instructions

To build a homemade metal lathe, it is best to start with the bed. On the upper edge of the base, seats are prepared for the longitudinal guides of the caliper, spindle, motor and other necessary elements.

The leading requirement for these surfaces is to provide a reference plane for all equipment. The best approach would be to mill the sites using industrial equipment. It is advisable to immediately drill mounting holes on it.

Otherwise, it will take much more time to install and align the guides.

The longitudinal guides of the support are attached directly to the base of the machine using screws. The lead screw bearing blocks are also installed there. During installation, ensure alignment of all elements. After the guides are finally secured, bearing modules are put on them.

From above, on the mounting surface, the base of the transverse axis is attached. The latter uses a metal plate with mounting holes. The same plate is installed on the transverse movement bearings and serves to secure the tool holder.

The homemade lathe will be completed by attaching miniature indicator dials and hand drive flywheels to the ends of the drive screws.

The spindle assembly is made of two bearing shields, which are also mounted on the frame. Shields can be ready-made or homemade.

During installation, ensure that the main axis coincides with the axes of the guides.

The spindle shaft must be made on a lathe, or try to find a ready-made one. During installation, the shaft is pressed into bearings. A lathe chuck is installed on one side and a pulley for a belt drive on the other. The use of any other types of gears in a small machine is impractical.

To be able to roughly regulate the speed and increase the spindle torque, it is recommended to manufacture stepped multi-lane pulleys. A similar pulley is mounted on the electric motor shaft. The motor itself is installed on the frame below or behind the spindle head.

The engine mount must include a belt tensioning mechanism.

Components of a homemade lathe

At the last stage, the electrical equipment of the machine is installed. It consists of completing a power cabinet in which a frequency converter, an input circuit breaker and spindle start and stop buttons are installed. The motor and electrical network are also connected. At this point, the assembly of the machine can be considered complete.

Source: https://stankiexpert.ru/stanki/tokarnye/samodelnyj-tokarnyj-stanok.html

DIY mini metal lathe

The dream of every DIYer, modeler and home craftsman is a lathe.

Everyone who managed to privatize socialist property today has huge bonuses in the form of lathes, drilling machines and other small-scale mechanization equipment in their garages and workshops.

Those who couldn’t do it have to make the machines with their own hands, since the minimum cost of a small, average, turned Chinese device corresponds to the annual salary of our non-deputy. There is only one way out - to do it yourself, which is what we will do now.

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Tabletop lathe, main components

A do-it-yourself mini metal lathe is made on the basis of what was done in production conditions, but for one reason or another it no longer serves its intended purpose. This means that the main components and assemblies will have to be taken from other devices that are completely unsuitable for this, adapt them and use all your ingenuity.

So, the main parts of a turning-screw-cutting or turning-milling machine should be:

• frame, a durable metal structure that ensures the stability and strength of the entire structure;
• guides for a lathe are a real headache for a DIYer, because they must have accuracy and stability, guides both longitudinal and transverse;
• lathe drive;
• working body - cutting part, system for fastening and adjusting the feed of cutters;
• spindle and tailstock - for fastening and holding the part during processing;
• Safety features - protection against spontaneous activation, protection against chips.

Actually, these are only the main parts that have to be made or selected from what is at hand.

Parameters, advantages and disadvantages

Mini lathes for metal processing differ radically from woodworking machines. The fact is that the entire structure of the frame and guides must withstand quite large loads, which are implied by metal cutting. At the same time, it must ensure feed accuracy and processing speed, which is very important when processing metals of different hardness.

The main parameters of a lathe that you will make yourself are linear dimensions, power and processing accuracy. We are not talking about a specific device now, since everyone sets their own tasks, and in the drawings and diagrams presented on the page you can find a suitable option for yourself. We are talking about the idea of ​​creating a tool in principle and its main parameters.

So, depending on the distance from the guides the center of the spindle and tailstock will be, the diameter of the workpiece will be determined. The length of the workpiece actually depends on the degree of freedom of movement of the tailstock along the guides. The same applies to the feeding device, which must correspond to the dimensions of the maximum diameter of the workpiece.

But you need to be prepared for the fact that a homemade lathe will not be able to provide high processing accuracy and high speed. This will be a device for making parts with a low accuracy class. Let’s figure it out further on what this depends on.

Machining on lathes, diagrams and drawings

Briefly about the control system, we can say that if knowledge and skills in engineering radio modeling allow, you can always make a simple screw-cutting lathe or lathe-milling machine with numerical control. CNC lathes allow you to automate the same type of work and they are needed if the master has to make a large number of identical workpieces according to a template.

For the most part, desktop machines are designed to perform one-time work, so the use of complex programming systems is hardly justified on machines with a low degree of accuracy.

Precision and performance of a homemade device

If the task is to create a machine for processing metals by cutting with a high degree of accuracy, you need to pay special attention to the guides and the bed. Many people make structural elements from wood, this is a fun budget solution, but it will not provide the required accuracy simply because the material of the bed and guides must be harder than the part being processed.

Therefore, all beds and guides for metal lathes are made only of metal.

It is advisable to use factory guides, but if this is not possible, which happens most often, then you have to use rolled metal, as in the example we gave from an ancient English magazine.

That is, all parts that are responsible for accuracy and strength must be made in production conditions, such as this option, where automobile connecting rods are used as centering elements.

Carrying out a metal lathe is creative and unhurried work. You need to think through all the details a hundred times, draw a couple of dozen drawings, and only then start manufacturing the machine in metal. But in any case, direct hands and ingenuity will lead to the successful creation of a practical and functional lathe. Good luck in the field of small engineering!

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Source: https://nashprorab.com/mini-tokarnyy-stanok-po-metallu-svoim/

Assembling a mini metal lathe with your own hands

A [mini lathe for metal work] will find its application in any private home or garage workshop.

Such equipment allows you to cut parts made of metal, wood, foam plastic and a number of other materials, drill holes, cut threads, and process ends.

Anything that involves changing the shape or surface of a part is done on a lathe. This work is possible both at home and in a specially equipped office.

It is not surprising that the first, most primitive prototypes were made in Ancient Egypt; stone was ground on them.

In museums there are turning and milling mechanisms for metal from the 14th-15th centuries; rotation in them was carried out by a foot pedal.

The rapid development of industry at the end of the Middle Ages required a qualitative breakthrough in equipment - the manual mechanism was modernized, and the first metal lathe and milling machine powered by electricity appeared.

A little later, computer numerical control (CNC) equipment was created.

Modernization of production required more and more highly specialized tools, and CNC equipment began to be created not only for working on wood or metal, but also for performing very narrow operations, for example, edging a door leaf or drilling cavities for a lock mortise.

They are still used in this form to this day.

In this article, we will review existing equipment and look at how to make a simple machine with your own hands, and how do-it-yourself upgrades can improve the equipment.

Lathe device

Industrial equipment is divided into light machines weighing up to 1 ton, medium weight machines - up to 10 tons, and heavy machines - over 11 tons.

Each machine performs one or more actions for processing wood or metal at home or in production.

All modern turning equipment is equipped with CNC, from the simplest to the most complex, which controls the turning of the part with an accuracy of tenths of a millimeter.

The modernization of machine tools has divided equipment into heavy and bulky equipment that performs tasks for heavy industry, as well as miniature high-precision equipment that produces tiny parts of precision instruments - these are desktop CNC machines.

Regardless of the size and purpose of use, lathes have the same basic components and components.

It consists of a base on which a frame is installed, along which the caliper moves along guides.

IMPORTANT TO KNOW: Types of drilling and filler machines

At opposite ends of the equipment there is a headstock, which transmits rotation through the spindle of the workpiece, and a tailstock, which moves freely and is fixed depending on the size of the workpiece.

The CNC is connected both to the motor (it stops rotation at the right moment) and to the cutting element itself.

A close relative in terms of operating principle is the milling machine. It is also used on wood and metal.

The milling mechanism, due to the cutter installed in the spindle, performs a rotational movement, and the translational movement of the part feed can be either straight or at an angle, depending on the task.

Usually the milling mechanism is equipped with CNC. The center, which simultaneously performs milling and turning operations, has a very wide application.

DIY equipment

There are many options on how you can create a homemade turning mechanism.

If you often have to do the same work, then benchtop lathes in your home workshop will be a good help.

Most often, a drill mounted on a base is used for the operating part of the equipment. With basic skills in working with electronics, it is possible to even come up with a CNC machine.

The base or frame of turning equipment can be made from metal corners or wooden beams.

Tabletop lathes can have a base in the form of a strong particle board.

If you are faced with the task of short-term processing of small parts, then it is quite possible to use a motor powered by a 220V network.

The frame design must ensure that the following conditions are met:

• both the leading and driven centers are located on the same straight line, which is parallel to the axis of rotation;
• the center of symmetry of the part coincides with the axis of its rotation;
• the part is securely fastened to the headstock.

You can turn a part that rotates between the headstock and tailstock using any tool - files, needle files, etc.

Homemade tabletop lathes are designed for side processing of parts. For example, it will be convenient to use them to process the baluster of a wooden staircase.

It’s easy to create not only tabletop, but also full-fledged lathes with your own hands.

The main difference between desktop versions and a full-size machine is the engine.

IMPORTANT TO KNOW: Application of 3D CNC milling machines for metal

The larger the homemade machine, the more bulky parts it can process.

And to work with large workpieces, of course, you will need a powerful engine.

Lathe from engine

Let's consider a homemade machine, created with your own hands from the engine and power supply of an old Soviet tape recorder.

Its base will be a wooden board, from its pieces, cut in the shape of squares, the side of which is equal to the width of the base of our future machine, we will form the tailstock.

We will form a casing from metal, in which we will cut a hole for the output of the rotating mechanism. We fix the engine on the casing.

Now you need to find the projection of the center of rotation onto the tailstock.

To do this, you can make a cylinder out of paper that clearly corresponds to the distance between the headstocks, fix it on the headstock and use the drive to wrap it around the axis several times.

If the cylinder rotates smoothly, then the point of fixation of the part will be the center of the circle that describes the cylinder on the tailstock.

We insert a self-tapping screw or any other holder for the workpiece into the center. Of course, this work was done by eye and does not imply high precision turning work.

Modernization, which will increase accuracy if the distance between the headstocks is more than 20 cm, is possible if the center of the workpiece is held level, placing it between the engine head and the tailstock.

We made the simplest mechanism with our own hands.

It can be used to process the side surface of a long cylindrical or cone-shaped part, as well as a simple beam.

Considering the low power of the machine, it is only suitable for wooden parts. In a similar way, you can make a milling mechanism with your own hands.

Lathe using drill

Modernizing the idea of ​​searching for an affordable electrical device that produces rotation, you will be prompted to use a drill for a do-it-yourself turning mechanism.

It can be found in every home. Often, not just one, because usually an inexpensive option is purchased, and then it turns out that it is rather weak in power.

For a turning mechanism, you will need a drill, any base (a piece of plywood, a board or a slab), a wooden skewer on which the workpiece will be placed, and a wooden square for the tailstock.

We fix the drill in any way, fix the tailstock made of wood at the marked length, insert a rod into the drill and drill a hole in the headstock.

The skewer and the workpiece rotate, and a person processes the workpiece using sandpaper.

IMPORTANT TO KNOW: Using a vertical metal milling machine

Such a mechanism can be modernized, during which any processing device (for example, a file) will be attached to the base, which will be a manual analogue of CNC.

So, if we need to make a cone-shaped recess around a wooden part, we can make the following improvements - we take two flat files, fix them so that they touch the part, and a trapezoid is formed between the surface of the part and the base with the files.

Now we need to ensure that the files are fed forward and at an angle using a simple spring mechanism.

Options for improving the mechanism:

• Upgrading to metal work can be done by replacing the skewer with a healing mechanism. Attach a spring fixation with a plate to the metal rod, install one such rod in the drill, and the second in the tailstock. A metal workpiece will rotate between the plates, and we will be able to perform metal turning;
• At home, work with long workpieces is often required. You can make a collapsible drill mount; easy modernization of the base of the mechanism will allow you to rearrange it to process longer objects;
• Equipment modernization can be carried out by taking a more powerful engine (for example, from a washing machine) and making a larger base area. There is no direct relationship between the area of ​​the base and the power of the engine, but it must be taken into account that vibrations occur during engine operation, and the base of the machine serves as a support, thanks to which the equipment itself with the rotating part will be in an equilibrium position.

We looked at how easy it is to make a homemade mechanism for turning work from parts that you probably have at home.

Upgrading the simplest equipment to suit your specific needs will help you process items in a more complex way.

To create a home lathe with a full-fledged CNC, you will need a control unit, however, it is difficult to make without special knowledge.

As we have demonstrated, the manual equivalent of CNC can be simple tools for working wood or metal, mounted on a base at the correct angle.

Source: https://rezhemmetall.ru/mini-tokarnyj-stanok-po-metallu-svoimi-rukami.html

DIY metal lathe

Thanks to metal lathes, people have the opportunity to make some parts themselves. It is not always possible to buy a part for a car or special equipment.

And most often, not because there is not enough money, but if we are talking about old Soviet special equipment or automobile industry products, many models are no longer produced. But nevertheless, this does not deprive the user of the opportunity to use them. Do-it-yourself metal lathes make it possible to do everything you need at home.

Why buy a metal lathe when you can make one yourself. It's not that difficult, and all you need is some drawings, a little patience and some old electrical equipment. Let's look at how to make such equipment yourself.

The main purpose of a lathe

TV 16 screw-cutting lathe

The principle of operation of any lathe is to process the part as it rotates. Thus, the cutter inserted into the plane of rotation will remove unnecessary elements upon contact with the workpiece. Such equipment can be automated, allowing the operator to do the following:

1. Perform longitudinal turning of a cylindrical workpiece with a smooth or stepped surface;
2. Process ledges or grooves in a future part;
3. Perform grooving of external or internal conical surfaces;
4. Carry out thread cutting, both internal and external, using a cutter or drill;
5. Ream or countersink holes in a metal workpiece;
6. Cut off excess parts or cut grooves;
7. Roll the grooved surface of the workpiece.

The main purpose of using a metal lathe is to process shafts, bushings or disks. Thus, a person gets the opportunity to make an axle, flywheel, sprockets, various liners, etc. from a blank. You can also process body parts on a universal lathe.

There is a certain classification of turning equipment. They are divided as follows

1. According to turning characteristics. There are as many as 9 subgroups when dividing equipment in this way.
2. Size range. The classification is carried out depending on the diameter of the workpiece that you will be processing.
3. Level of specialization. Depending on the profile of the work performed and the capabilities of the equipment.
4. Machine accuracy class.

The most famous and used for home workshops are screw-cutting lathes.

They gained their popularity back in the Soviet years, when they taught the younger generation how to process metal parts. The main purpose of the machines in this group is precisely to train specialists to work with more complex equipment.

This implies ease of operation and mastering of the machine. As well as a high level of safety and minimum safety requirements for the operator.

Nowadays such equipment is produced in a modern style. Such models have increased functionality designed for the operation of an enterprise; therefore, it is not advisable to install such equipment at home.

It will be expensive - there is no point in overpaying for functionality that you will never use in your life.

Old TV-16 machines, which were used to equip almost all labor rooms and production workshops for training specialists in educational institutions, are ideal for home use. The problem is that getting such equipment even from a reservation is very problematic.

You can, of course, buy from a photo on Avito, but you will buy it second-hand, and it is not a fact that the machine will last you a long time, after the old owner.

It is best to do it yourself, especially since there is nothing complicated about it. You will need tools and materials that are not a problem to get. By building a metal machine with your own hands, you will not only get equipment for working with workpieces, but also save a lot of money on the purchase and services of turners.

How the machine works - important structural elements

Design diagram.

Any equipment necessarily has a basis, without which it will not function. In a screw-cutting lathe, such structural elements are:

1. Headstock and tailstock;
2. The bed or frame, which is the basis for the equipment;
3. Electric drive;
4. Control centers - driven and driven parts of the machine;
5. A tool rest where the operator will rest the cutting tools to process the part.

This can also include grounding and a protective shield. The first will ensure your safety from electric shock, and the second will protect you from getting chips in your face.

The unit will be installed on a special steel. If you manufacture this equipment yourself, the frame is the base.

Advice: it is best to choose a high-quality and durable metal for the base. The stronger the frame, the more securely the equipment will be fixed. This eliminates rattling of the screw-cutting turning unit.

The tailstock will be installed along the frame. This device is movable. The front one is stationary. It is connected by a belt drive to the drive, which causes the workpiece to move.

In turning and screw-cutting equipment, the center, which is the leading one, will connect the motor together with the rotation transmission device. The electric drive itself is best installed on the frame. At home, strong metal corners and profiles are best suited for creating a frame.

You will also need some pieces of wood to act as a stand to help eliminate vibration from the equipment.

What is important here is not so much what you will use, but the stability of the finished frame.

A motor is suitable as an electric drive; it is best that it comes from a high-power washing machine.

The entire installation will be powered with a voltage of 380V, so you will definitely need to run wires into the garage that can meet this requirement. You will also need an old table, which will serve as a stand for the machine. It is best to choose a sturdy table made of wood or metal.

The transmission of revolutions to the shafts can be done using a chain, friction or belt drive. A belt is best because it is the most effective, simple and reliable type.

Features of the design of a do-it-yourself screw-cutting lathe

General view of a homemade machine.

It is not difficult to make a homemade lathe at home. The main thing is to follow a number of rules that will help you do this. The first step is to replace the driven and driving centers of the equipment on the same axis. In this way, the user removes vibrations that may occur during the processing of metal workpieces.

Important! When using equipment with one leading center, you need to install a special jaw chuck or a faceplate.

Thanks to these elements, the user will be able to secure the part for further processing with cutting tools.

Important! Under no circumstances should motors be installed as commutator-type electric drives.

If such a unit is not provided with additional counter-load, the torque will be too strong. It will not be possible to grind anything at such speeds. In addition, the part may simply fly out of the clamps, which do not provide sufficient gripping force.

In this way, you can not only damage the workpiece itself, but also suffer badly if it hits a person. For this purpose, use an asynchronous motor. The essence of its work is that even with an increase or decrease in load, the rotation frequency transmitted to the shafts will not change.

Such a unit will allow the operator to process parts of the following dimensions:

1. Thickness - 10 cm;
2. Width - up to 70 cm.

The tailstock is a unique structural part of the machine where the driven center is mounted. It can be stationary or dynamic. To move it, a simple bolt is used. By twisting or unwinding, the headstock will move in the direction desired by the operator.

Before installing such a bolt, lubricate it with machine oil for better and more comfortable sliding. Only then is it permissible to insert it into the thread, which is designed to move the tailstock of the installation.

To work on creating a machine from improvised means, you will need several simple tools that every person can find

1. Electric welding;
2. Bulgarian;
3. Grinding machine;
4. Drill with a set of drills;
5. Spanners;
6. Measuring tools - a caliper along with a tape measure or ruler;
7. Pen, pencil or marker for marking.

The first step is to think over the drawing, and then proceed with installation.

Design of a future product

Drawings with dimensions.

It should be noted that it is recommended to make equipment for home purposes with the same dimensions as the TV-16. It is low-power and will fully satisfy the needs of an individual. We take the following dimensions for the drawings:

1. Length - up to 115 cm;
2. Width up to 62 cm;
3. The height of the equipment axis is 18 cm.

Important! These dimensions should not be exceeded when manufacturing a machine in a home-made environment. This may lead to disruption of its geometry during operation.

When you draw up a project, draw out all the details, or download drawings with dimensions from the Internet and work according to the finished plan. If you try to keep all the points in your head, you will definitely make a mistake that will ruin all the equipment.

You will rely on the accuracy of the project and drawing of the future equipment not only during the work process, but also during the purchase of the necessary consumables.

We create a lathe based on an electric motor

Now let's look at the sequence of assembling a home metal lathe.

1. We make the frame. According to the drawing, we process the channel or profile corner. We measure and trim what is unnecessary. Using welding, we securely weld the frame so that we get an even rectangle.
2. Installation of slats and headstocks. A rail with a tailstock on one side will be mounted on it. And weld the headstock to the other.
3. Drive installation. An electric motor is installed on the rear side of the frame. It should be placed as close as possible to the headstock, so that with the help of shafts and a belt it is possible to practically ensure the possibility of transmitting rotation to the working part.
4. Installation of the tool rest. When the previous stage is completed, we install the tool stand. It is not welded, but is made movable using nuts and bolts. The movement of the tool rest should be in a direction perpendicular to the workpiece.
5. Installing the protective casing and placing the belt on the transmission shafts.
6. Connecting the motor to the network and grounding.
7. Visual inspection for correct assembly and test run.

Tip: To better understand how to make a machine, watch the video below.

Congratulations - your home lathe is ready. Now you can effortlessly produce any necessary metal parts for special equipment or a car. You can also now independently repair certain parts of a vehicle or household tool.

Source: https://stanki-info.ru/po-metallu-svoimi-rukami.html