Metal drill PRACTICE 774 474
Drill type: stepped, Shank type: cylindrical, For metal (steel): yes, Drill coating: TIN - titanium nitride, Drill steel grade: HSS, Set: no, Manufacturer product codes: 774-474
520 RUR
774-474 PRACTICE
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Metal drill PRACTICA Ф5х54mm (774-986)
Drill type: tap drill, Shank type: HEX (hexagonal), Outer diameter: 5, Length (mm): 54, For metal (steel): yes, Drill steel grade: HSS, Set: no, Manufacturer product codes: 774 -986
560 RUR
Ф5х54mm (774-986) PRACTICE
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Metal drill PRACTICE Ф6х57mm (774-993)
Drill type: tap drill, Shank type: HEX (hexagonal), Outer diameter: 6, Length (mm): 57, For metal (steel): yes, Drill steel grade: HSS, Set: no, Manufacturer product codes: 774 -993
570 RUR
Ф6х57mm (774-993) PRACTICE
PRACTICE / Ф6х57mm (774-993 ) / similar
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That is why experts advise those who do not know how to choose a metal drill to get an idea of the design features of such a tool.
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Wood drill: how to choose and sharpen correctly?
The modern market offers customers a huge number of different types of drills. Some of them are used exclusively for wooden structures, let's figure out how to choose them correctly and how to sharpen a wood drill in the best way.
Features of choosing a drill for wood
When it becomes necessary to choose the right drill, the first thing you need to pay attention to is the color. So, for example, each shade of the product is responsible for the type of final processing, which shows the life of the drill and its strength.
- The worst option can be considered gray products, which are not processed in any way and their performance parameters are quite low.
- The color can be golden, which indicates titanium coating and a fairly long service life.
- Black drills treated with steam during creation are no worse in performance.
In addition, it is worth carefully visually examining the object. If there are visible signs of deformation on it, then it is better not to use such a product. It is important to choose a drill without a single scratch or crack; its surface should be perfectly flat and smooth.
Types of wood drills
Types of wood drills
Typically, high-quality drills are used by experienced craftsmen who require various types of products in their work to create holes in wood. These could be holes, for example, for tenons, bolts or dowels. Moreover, the drilling process itself can be very diverse in quality, which will lead to thoughts about how to properly sharpen the drill after use and whether it will have to be sharpened at all.
The most common types of drills today include: screw, spiral, feather, center, ring and Forstner drills.
Screw
If you need to drill wood across the grain without once again asking yourself the question of how to properly sharpen a drill for wood, then a screw drill with a fine thread at the end will come in handy. They can reach up to 50 millimeters in diameter.
A special screw shape will help remove chips from the work site in a timely manner and thus not overheat the rod. Depending on the required hole depth, you can purchase drills longer than a centimeter, with a minimum size of 400 millimeters.
Screw drills for wood
Spiral
A spiral product can immediately be distinguished by a perfectly polished milled spiral with an edge that prevents any movement of the rod to the side during operation.
It is thanks to the spiral shape that they can easily drill holes in veneer structures. The diameter of the corresponding drills reaches 52 millimeters, and the smallest can be found at 3 millimeters.
In order to accurately target the intended drilling location, the tail of the product is equipped with a conical shape, which gives a lot of convenience.
If, when purchasing, the choice fell on twist drills, then you should always remember the relationship between the diameter of the product and the maximum number of revolutions that it can produce. Otherwise, the service life of the product will be sharply reduced. If you need to process hard wooden surfaces, it is better to set a maximum of 900 rpm with a drill diameter of 14 millimeters or less. But for soft wood, you can set the drilling tool to 1800 rpm.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wY2X2IkNmf8
Twist drill bit set for wood
Feathers
The most common type of drill is the feather drill. It is this that makes you think about how to sharpen a feather drill for wood, and is most often used in repair and construction work. It is the most convenient and has various options in diameter.
It has only one important drawback: this shape of the drill does not facilitate chip removal and the drilling process becomes significantly more complicated, especially when a hole with a large depth is needed. That is why experts recommend using this type of drill when working with wood boards or thick boards, where the drilling process will occur as efficiently as possible.
A special type of tip for a feather drill or a similar product with an extension can correct the situation. This extension has a hexagonal shape and can be used for other types of drills. In this case, the diameter of the final hole can reach up to 52 millimeters.
Feather drills for wood
Center and ring
But center drills are useful for creating perfectly smooth through holes in a wooden surface. Typically, such products take the form of a 50 mm (minimum 12 mm) rod with a cutting edge at the bottom, reaching a length of up to 150 mm. Of course, it will not be possible to make deep enough holes. For this purpose, ring drills are suitable, which look similar to a crown or a ring with teeth. They are usually sold as a whole set in the form of attachments with a centering drill and a single base.
Forstner drills
When it comes to repairing or creating furniture, and not about thoughts with the question of how to sharpen a feather drill for wood, then you can immediately safely go for Forstner drills, which are best suited for this task. They allow you to drill completely blind holes with a perfectly flat bottom. In this case, the diameter of the product reaches from 10 to 50 millimeters. The drill itself is coated with a specialized alloy, which serves as protection and increases service life.
Forstner wood drill bit
Correct sharpening of the drill
Before you start directly sharpening an expensive and high-quality drill, you should try your skills on old, used products. Thus, if the result is negative, the old drill can always be used as a consumable. When your hand is full, you can switch to a new drill without fear.
For the most correct sharpening of a wood drill, its geometric parameters should be observed. This means that it is important to maintain the factory sharpening angle. Sometimes the result can be just like this – perfectly sharpened for a hammer drill. The drill itself can be processed either manually or using an electric sharpener.
Device for sharpening drills at home
Manual sharpening
When sharpening by hand, a mild steel file is used. Moreover, it is worth starting the processing process with a tool with a wide notch pitch, processing both the cutting edge and the back side. After this, you can bring the drill to perfect condition using a file with a fine notch.
Sharpening with an electric sharpener
When sharpening a drill occurs in an “automatic” mode using an electric sharpener, it is very important to have cold water nearby (in a container or running water), since it is necessary to constantly cool the rod. This will keep the product from overheating and damage.
With this option, the drill should be sharpened on the edge of the sharpening disk.
Once the required drill geometry has been achieved, it is worth finishing the drill at low speeds.
Homemade drill sharpening machine
If you don’t have a sharpening machine at hand, you can easily make one yourself.
- It is necessary to firmly install the grinder in a comfortable position. A stationary frame with a motor speed of up to 1500 rpm (with a power of 200 W) is also suitable.
- The basis for a homemade machine may well be thick plywood or a wooden beam.
- For more correct sharpening, it is necessary to eliminate any vibration of the engine and create conditions for a smooth transition to different speeds. To achieve this result, you can use an abrasive wheel.
Step-by-step instructions for sharpening a drill
The result of the above actions is a certain scheme of actions:
- Guide the drill to the edge of the grinding machine disk.
- Mandatory adherence to the factory sharpening angle of 95 degrees.
- To improve the quality of sharpening, the drill should be secured in a washer, the rear edges of which should be tucked a couple of millimeters.
- Once sharpening is completed, it is worth continuing work at lower speeds.
- After this, you can cool the sharpened product and test it for functionality.
When sharpening a drill, it is important to understand that a person must have very good eyesight. Therefore, for better results, you need to organize high-quality lighting of the work place. If the rules are strictly followed, a sharpened drill will last a very long time and will always be a “savior” during repair or construction work.
Source: https://stroypomochnik.ru/kak-zatochit-sverlo-po-derevu-i-kakie-oni-byvayut01/
How to sharpen metal drills correctly - Metalworker's Guide
When drilling metal, the cutting tool loses its initial sharpness of the working edge. Don't throw it away to buy a new one.
Even the strongest grade of steel, subject to heat treatment, cannot ensure drilling operations without restoring the cutting part. Sharpening a drill for metal will help restore its previous performance properties.
It is easy to make a device with your own hands at home without the use of special equipment. Let's look at how to return a tool to its original cutting properties.
How does the sharpening angle of a metal drill affect drilling efficiency?
At home, work is often done to make holes of the required size in metal. When drilling, it is not always possible to quickly replace a worn-out tool with a new one of the required size. Home craftsmen try to select the required diameter, but if the sharpening angles of the drills are not maintained, then it is problematic to quickly and efficiently complete the task.
The discrepancy between the sharpness of the cutting edge and geometric parameters can be determined by a number of signs:
- increased noise level emitted by an unsharpened shank;
- intensive increase in the temperature of the workpiece during machining;
- sudden heating of the working part and the body fixed in the cartridge;
- unsatisfactory quality of formed holes;
- an increase in the axial force applied to the electric drill;
- the quality of the chips, which crumble and do not have a spiral shape.
Drills intended for metal work have to be sharpened much more often than those used for wood processing.
In addition, the load on the electric motor increases significantly when trying to apply a force in the axial direction sufficient to immerse the cutting edge into the metal. The dullness of the chamfer is a source of additional resistance between the cutting part and the processing surface. Knowing how to properly sharpen a drill for metal, if any of these signs are detected, you must immediately stop drilling and begin restoration.
A worn working part not only reduces machining efficiency, but also affects safety. At high temperatures and elevated temperatures, performing machining at significant speeds, breakdown is possible. Metal fragments can fly in all directions and cause serious injury.
Sharpening drills - preparatory activities
Home craftsmen are often upset by the impossibility of further implementation of plans due to the fact that the drill has become dull. How to sharpen it yourself? Indeed, in the conditions of manufacturing enterprises, special equipment is used to solve such a problem.
It allows for increased accuracy, securely fixes the cutting shank and restores the condition of the cutting edge in a limited time. When thinking about how to sharpen a metal drill at home, check what household power tools are available.
The following equipment will be suitable:
- Sander;
- grinder;
- electric drill.
You should carefully consider what you will need to complete the work and what you will need to add to the power tool.
Sharpening a drill for metal using a special device greatly simplifies the task
Do-it-yourself drill sharpening should be done using additional accessories:
- grinding wheels of varying hardness. The grain size of the wheel is selected depending on the hardness of the material being processed;
- container intended for coolant. In terms of cooling efficiency, machine oil will provide a greater effect than ordinary water;
- a fixing device to ensure the required sharpening angle. It is important to ensure reliable fixation when processing the cutting part.
To ensure immobility, a complex adjustable angle jig or a simple drill bit sharpener can be used on a drill.
When performing work, it is necessary to use personal protective equipment to comply with safety requirements.
For sharpening activities you will need:
- protective glasses. They will protect the mucous membrane of the eyes from clogging with chips and dust, as well as sparks during machining;
- mittens. They will reliably protect the skin of your hands from cuts when touching a sharply sharpened edge and flying fragments of metal shavings.
Having prepared everything you need to complete the work, you should learn how to sharpen a drill correctly at home. This will avoid mistakes and significantly speed up the completion of sharpening activities.
Working with a worn drill is not only ineffective, but also unsafe.
How to sharpen drills for metal correctly
Unfortunately, not all home craftsmen have any idea how to properly sharpen a drill. Some spend money on buying a new one and throw away the dull ones. At the same time, restoring a dull surface is a simple operation that allows you to return to its previous performance characteristics.
Depending on the shape of the cutting part, various methods for restoring the working surface are used:
- single-plane;
- two-plane;
- conical;
- cylindrical;
- screw.
Before starting work you should:
- decide on the method of restoration work;
- inspect the condition of the working surface;
- check the functionality of the sharpening device;
- prepare the fixing device.
Using the example of the most common methods - single-plane and conical, we will consider the algorithm of actions.
In order for the drill to be sharpened with high quality, it is necessary to ensure that it is fed into the processing area at the required angle
When performing work using the single-plane method, it is necessary to bring the cutting tool to the emery wheel, ensuring that the cutting edge is parallel to the plane of the circle. Then you need to press it to the circle, keeping the rear angle in the range of 26–30 degrees. This is a fairly simple method, used for products with a diameter of no more than 3 mm.
Please note the serious points:
- the abrasive wheel should rotate towards the surface being sharpened;
- maintain a constant angle and do not allow displacement relative to the axis;
- carry out the work of restoring the working edge in one approach;
- Cool the heated shank when changing positions.
When visually inspecting the tip, the working edges should have the same slope and equal length, which can be easily checked using a template.
The conical restoration method is more complex and requires some preparation. It has fundamental differences from the single-plane one, and is used for tools with a diameter of over 4 mm. The tool to be sharpened should be held with both hands.
Having touched the working part of the abrasive surface, it is necessary to smoothly rotate along the back side, giving it a cone-shaped shape. In this case, it is prohibited to open the tool from the sanding surface.
It is necessary to start each cycle from the working edge and end with a full rotation, followed by checking the angles.
After completing work on restoring the cutting edge, remember that it is necessary to finish the tool.
When sharpening drills at home, you always have to look for ways to make the result of this process high-quality
Finishing task:
- grinding the working part;
- removal of the smallest roughness.
To do this, you can use a wheel with a fine abrasive.
Proper sharpening of the drill - important points
There is a general rule when performing sharpening work - first you should sharpen the rear base, and then approach the processing of the cutting element.
It is important to follow the following recommendations:
- hold the tool with the cutting edge parallel to the abrasive wheel;
- use a special device that provides the required sharpening angle.
When sharpening, pay attention to the following points:
- compliance with the front angle of the working part. It is measured in the main plane and is located between the working part of the tool and the base of the cutting edge;
- correct sharpening of the rear corner of the cutting edge. It is controlled similarly to the front one, but is located in the rear plane of the instrument;
- correspondence of the angular position of the two cutting edges. The angle is located at the top of the working surface and is located between both cutting edges.
Following the sharpening recommendations will allow you to fully restore performance characteristics.
Source: https://ssk2121.com/kak-pravilno-zatachivat-sverla-po-metallu/
How to sharpen a drill yourself
Almost every owner has a drill or hammer drill in his arsenal. Consequently, drills for household work are often used. However, everyone knows that any drill requires sharpening over time. However, not everyone knows how to sharpen a drill at home. To understand the principle of this procedure, read our article.
Typically, twist drills are used for work around the house. They can drill into both metal and wood. To understand how a drill works, you need to know its design.
During the drilling process, the cutting edges of the drill form a conical surface, so the bottom of the hole takes on a conical shape. The efficiency of drilling metal can be determined by the condition of the rear corner of the drill.
The fact is that each type of cutting tool and depending on the material being processed has an individual cutting angle.
How to sharpen
As a rule, drill sharpening is done using an electric sharpener. Sharpening begins with the need to form cutting edges. In this case, you should focus on the grooves of the drill, located in a spiral, along which the material chips are removed. During sharpening, the edge must be positioned parallel to the axis of the sharpener. The metal layer is removed from the drill gradually.
The procedure stops only when the reflected light of the edge is no longer visible. In this case, the drill must be held in a position parallel to the axis of the circle. The second edge is sharpened in the same way.
Sharpening angle
There may be different angles between the edges of the drill. This depends on the material for which the drill is used. Eg:
- for drilling steel you need a sharpening angle of 140 degrees;
- for wood or plastic, a sharpening angle of 90 degrees is suitable;
- For other materials, a drill with a sharpening angle of 120 degrees is used.
This drill is considered universal.
To sharpen the blade at the correct angle, it is best to use a template made of thick paper or cardboard.
Edge length and shape
When sharpening the drill, you need to maintain the same length of edges. As for the top of the drill, it should be located exactly in the center of its axis. Remember that metal is capable of reflecting light, so visually it may appear that the edges are not the same. To make sure the sharpening is done correctly, shade the drill on three sides and carefully inspect its outline.
Back edge surface
After you have sharpened the edges of the drill, you can begin processing their back surface. Their shape should be conical. To check the parameters of the rear surface, you can use a washer whose hole diameter is 2/3 smaller than the drill diameter. The surface of the edge is applied to the edge of the washer hole and it is determined how much metal needs to be removed to achieve the desired result.
When the edges have a conical shape as a result of sharpening, you need to form the back corners. In this case, the metal is removed in such a way that in the arc of the drill, for every millimeter, the gap between the washer and the drill itself increases by approximately 0.15 mm.
Make sure that the cutting edge is not damaged during operation. To prevent this from happening, a strip 0.2 mm wide is left on the last passes, which is not processed.
The edge on the other side of the drill will not be damaged if you use the near end of the sharpening wheel when sharpening.
Jumper
When a drill is sharpened, a bridge appears on the two rear surfaces, which prevents drilling, so it is necessary to make it small. However, it cannot be removed completely, since then the drill may break off in the center. If the drill is thin, for example, with a diameter of 6 mm, then the optimal length of the jumper is 0.7 mm. For a thick drill, a jumper of 1.5 mm is sufficient.
In production conditions, after sharpening, finishing is usually carried out, with the help of which the surface is smoothed and small nicks disappear. Moreover, this drill lasts longer than others. Therefore, if possible, it is best to fine-tune the drill after sharpening. For this purpose, use round grinding stones made of green silicon carbide on a bakelite bond.
Source: http://sdelais.ru/kak-zatochit-sverlo-samomu.html
How to sharpen drills correctly
Sharpening a drill for metal can be done without contacting a specialist. It is well known that drilling tools become dull during use. The more it is used, the sooner it deforms.
How to determine if a tool is dull
Many people do not pay attention to the signs indicating the need to sharpen their drills themselves. They use the tool until it breaks completely, after which they buy another one. This is most often due to a lack of understanding of how to properly sharpen a drill for metal. It must be remembered that sharpening can be done with your own hands, at home. You will need special tools.
It is possible to make a hole in steel if the tool is well sharpened. If, when drilling, the area where the drilling fixture touches the part squeaks, it means the tool has become dull. It will begin to scroll and rub against the steel. In addition, heat dissipation will increase significantly.
Specialists usually use small instruments with a radius of less than eight millimeters. To sharpen blunt drills at home, you can use:
- sharpening device with an abrasive wheel;
- grinding device;
- electric drill with appropriate attachment.
You can use any other device on which you can place a special stone and ensure its torsion. The rotation speed must exceed eight hundred revolutions per minute.
Preparation
Before you start sharpening, put on glasses, gloves, and prepare a container with liquid. The smallest particles and sparks will fly from the sharpening device in different directions. If you do not cover your hands and head, they can injure the skin. The organs of vision will be particularly affected. At best, you will get away with minor problems with your eyes, at worst, you will go blind.
The container with water is intended for cooling the instrument. When sharpening, it will begin to heat up from friction against the rotating surface of the abrasive. If the tool is not cooled, it will overheat and break.
Sharpening procedure
How to sharpen a drill for metal? It's not too difficult. It is required to strictly follow the algorithm by which the procedure is performed. First of all, decide what type of drill sharpening to choose. The choice depends on the shape that the cutting parts of the tool should have.
To make sure that the device is sharpened correctly, look at it. If you did everything correctly, then:
- the cutting parts are of identical length relative to the axis of the drill;
- The sharpening angles of the elements do not differ from each other.
Drill sharpening should begin from the base of the tool, located at the back. It is necessary not to deviate from the angle set at the beginning. If you haven't done anything like this before, you may need to repeat the sharpening a couple of times. After each sharpening, carefully inspect the tool. The procedure must be repeated until the back becomes cone-shaped (when viewed from the left/right).
Next you need to sharpen the cutting part. There are various methods by which drill bits can be sharpened. Try to keep all parts the same shape.
If you sharpen in one plane, then the rear base is processed at an angle of twenty-eight to thirty degrees. This is a simple method that is used for instruments of small thickness (radius no more than one and a half millimeters).
The device must be applied at a certain sharpening angle to the abrasive element. Do not allow the tool to turn over or move. This will cause the cutting parts to scatter, especially when the metal is of low quality.
The cutting elements of tools with a large radius must be sharpened conically. This method is more difficult than the previous one. If you're not sure you can do the procedure correctly, practice on a part you don't need before sharpening.
How to sharpen a drill bit conically? With your left hand, grab the main one, and with your right hand, the tail section. The base should be near the fence cone. Otherwise, sharpening will not proceed correctly. Use your right hand to rock the instrument. A cone-shaped base will form at the back. A similar procedure must be carried out for the other part of the instrument. Make sure that the pen does not move away from the abrasive element even for a second.
Peculiarities
How to sharpen a metal drill correctly? Ensure that the rear of the drilling jig retains its original shape. This technique will allow you to accurately maintain the set sharpening angles of the drill. You will be able to sharpen tools with a radius of up to five millimeters with your own hands. How to sharpen larger drills? Sharpen the main parts of each nib separately.
When sharpening, the front and rear angles of the tool decrease, and the angle of the cutting edge increases. This ensures an extension of the operational period and a reduction in the width of the transverse edge.
When using the conical sharpening method, the nib becomes stronger. In production conditions, finishing is often carried out, which provides the opportunity to eliminate the smallest irregularities that remain after sharpening a metal drill with your own hands.
Using a template to set the angle
How to sharpen a drill yourself? This was written above. To eliminate errors, you need to check the correctness of sharpening with a special device - a template.
The template can be made from a sheet of metal (copper, aluminum, steel) having a thickness of approximately one millimeter. It is advisable to use steel sheets because they last longer than others. Using the template, calculate the sharpening angle of the wood/metal drill at the tip, the size of the cutting parts, the angle between the bridge and the edge. Instead of the back angle, which is quite difficult to calculate, it is necessary to measure the point angle.
If the lengths of the cutting parts and their angle of inclination to the tool axis are uneven, the load will be distributed incorrectly. As a result, the operating period will be shortened due to wear of the cutting parts, which are constantly in a state of overload.
Differences in the load on parts of the tool provoke its runout when processing the part. Because of this, the radius of the hole is larger than necessary. The easiest way to determine whether sharpening is correct is to try to make a hole using a drilling device. If the chips fly out unevenly, it means that the wood/metal drill was sharpened incorrectly.
Sharpening device
It is possible to make a sharpening unit yourself. It contains a large base and a small part with holes for drilling devices of different sizes. The device cannot be intended for sharpening any one tool. It must provide the ability to process tools of different diameters and lengths.
The base of the device, through which twist drills are sharpened, can be made of planed slats 3-4 centimeters thick. A wooden plank with a side bevel at an angle of 27 degrees must be attached to them at an angle of 32 degrees. This bar is intended for the correct orientation of the holder with the drill relative to the grinding element. The holder can be made from a block with a bevel at an angle of 62 degrees.
You already know how to sharpen a drill bit for wood/metal. It's not too difficult. You will need to be focused, patient and persistent, and careful. Only in this case will you be able to maintain the required sharpening angle of the metal drill. If you doubt your abilities, contact a qualified specialist.
However, remember one of the main advantages of sharpening yourself is saving money. The master will not sharpen your tool for free. The exception is when the specialist is your friend. You can also watch a video of sharpening a metal drill.
Nowadays, on the Internet you can easily find and download similar videos that clearly explain the process of sharpening a drilling device.
Source: https://respect-kovka.com/kak-pravilno-zatachivat-sverla/
How to sharpen a drill correctly - simple instructions for novice craftsmen
From the author: Hello, dear readers! Every master and owner maintains their instrument carefully and with great love. After all, its service life and quality of work depend on its condition.
Some parts wear out and are easier to replace with new ones. And other tools need to be sharpened correctly, then they will serve you for a long time.
Here you can draw an analogy with a kitchen knife - no one would even think of throwing it away after a month of purchase; it’s easier to sharpen it and successfully use it further.
But let's return to the tools necessary for construction and repair. Let's find out how to properly sharpen a drill if we have a dull one on our hands. What methods are there and how can a beginner apply them? What types of drills are there? Are there any secrets to mastery? You will learn about this in our article.
What is a drill
One of the most popular assistants in everyday life is an electric drill; it is a reliable companion in many household chores. Each drill has a specific set of drills, depending on the needs of the master. Of course, drills, like any cutting tool, must be kept in perfect order - monitor their condition and sharpen them on time.
This element can be used not only to create new holes in the base material, but also to enlarge existing ones - the so-called drilling. The design of the drill consists of a working and tail parts, a neck, and a foot.
The working part can be of various shapes, the most popular is screw (spiral), there are also flat ones, for deep drilling, one-sided cutting, stepped ones, etc. It is this that becomes dull, and we will sharpen it. The design of the tail part can also be different - with a cylindrical, conical, triangular shank, etc.
Special purpose
According to the material being processed, drills are divided as follows:
- universal;
- for metal and alloys;
- on concrete, brick, stone;
- on glass, ceramics;
- on wood.
From this list it is already clear that drills are an invaluable thing in the household; you can work with almost all materials. So we take care of the instrument correctly, and it will serve us faithfully for a long time!
If you are reading this article, it means that you already have a drill or drills on hand that have lost their sharpness, with a broken geometry of the working part. Go through all the available tools, let's put the work drawer in order. And the next time the need for drilling arises, you will deftly and quickly cope with the task to the delight of yourself and your household.
Preparing for work
Let's start with preparatory measures and take care of safety precautions. No matter how important it is to urgently and quickly put everything in order, this must still be done not at the cost of health. Therefore, let's see what we need to have: safety glasses or a mask, a container of water (for cooling). A drill (or several) also lies and waits to become sharp. And now it’s time to look: what are we going to sharpen with? What are your options at home?
There are several possibilities for sharpening: a sharpening (also known as a sharpening) machine and a Bulgarian saw. In home use, as a rule, drills of small diameter (up to 16 mm), so you can do without the help of professional production machines, on your own.
Signs of a dull drill
Now you need to select the elements you need to work on. When the sharpness of an instrument is lost, this can be understood during use by the sound - there is a hum and creaking of worn material.
The quality of the holes themselves is already unsatisfactory. And if you touch the drill (of course, having turned off the drill first) immediately after work, you can get burned - it heats up so intensely.
All these signs together lead us to the decision to stop work and start sharpening.
Sharpening methods
Drills can be sharpened in a variety of ways, the most common being single-plane and conical. The first is suitable for narrow drills with a diameter of no more than 3 mm. The peculiarity of this sharpening is that the drills are applied to the grinding wheel and moved evenly along its abrasive surface (strictly parallel). This type of work requires special care and attention; you can ruin everything through carelessness.
Conical sharpening is used for tools with a diameter of 3 mm or more. Such a drill is firmly fixed and consistently sharpened by lightly pressing against the sharpening stone with a “rocking” motion. The pen should be sharpened smoothly and slowly, avoiding tearing it away from the sharpening wheel. Everything is done carefully and carefully.
During sharpening, you need to be careful not to overheat the tool; do not forget to dip it in cold water, the container with which you carefully prepared ahead of time, to cool and harden it. Don't forget about safety glasses either.
Sharpening machine
A sharpening machine is very convenient in everyday life. If you don’t have one yet, perhaps it’s time to think about purchasing one - this is a purchase that will last for decades, it won’t take up much space, and it will save you a lot of effort and energy, as well as ensure careful handling of the tool being sharpened. The sharpening machine runs on electricity. Let's watch a video by a wonderful master, which describes in detail both the preparatory part of the work and the process itself.
A universal sharpening machine is also useful for sharpening various other tools, from scissors to axes, so it obviously won’t gather dust. This equipment consists of an electric motor and two rotating abrasive wheels. On one wheel there is a large grain size - for rough processing of the tool, on the other there is a fine grain, necessary for finer sharpening. Some models are equipped with an additional lamp to illuminate the work process, which is convenient to avoid injuries.
Working with twist drills
Since they are the most common, let's start with them. Wood drill bits may not need to be sharpened for several years. Wood is a soft, pliable material; the instrument will delight you with its sharpness for a long time. The same cannot be said about other drills - for example, for metal. The characteristic creaking sound will tell you that you should not continue working with a dull tool. For such work you definitely need sharp drills.
Sharpening is done along the back edge. The work is performed symmetrically, consistently and very carefully. You need to carefully monitor the angle at which the tool is positioned when working on the machine. It is enough to change the position to deform the element and negate all the work. You will have to buy a new tool and handle it more carefully.
Particular attention should be paid to the edge - this is the cutting part of the tool, the load on it is increased. In order to ensure the required sharpening angles, it is necessary to use special devices to measure them. An example of such a template can be seen in the video above, at the 4th minute of viewing.
Here are the necessary numbers that you should adhere to in your work. Apex angle in degrees: 90–100° - plastic; 118° - steel, cast iron; 120–130° – brass, bronze; 140° - wood, marble, ebonite and brittle materials.
Pobedite drill
The winner is a hard alloy (90% tungsten + 10% cobalt) with a high degree of strength. With a brazed drill, you can easily make a hole in dense materials such as concrete, brick, stone. Is it possible to sharpen such a tool? The answer is simple: not only is it possible, but it is also necessary. A squealing sound during operation will clearly indicate to you that it is time to sharpen. A sharpening machine with a diamond disc is suitable for this.
When sharpening a Pobedit drill, there is the following important point: the sharpening angle is 170°. Another important feature: do not overheat the element during operation; for this you have a container with cold water. Refrigerate periodically. If you ignore this advice, then cracks may appear in the instrument and particles of the pobedit solder will peel off.
Sharpening without a machine
It also happens that a dull drill - here it is. But the sharpening machine is not visible. There is a way out - if you follow safety precautions, you can sharpen the element using a grinder. There are many videos on the Internet where you can look at the process in detail. There are two options for working - either the drill itself or the grinder is fixed. In the first case, the grinder has a disc for working on metal, in the second – a disc with fine sandpaper. Don't forget about safety glasses!
When sharpening a tool, it is important to maintain the geometry and angle of the back of the drill (original appearance, factory shape), thanks to this your work will be flawless. Remember: the higher the strength of the tool being sharpened, the slower the sharpening disk rotates.
Basic Rules
Every business has its own rules, and sharpening drills is no exception. Here are the basic principles that should be strictly adhered to:
- gradual sharpening;
- smoothness of movements;
- the edge should be parallel to the working surface of the sharpening stone;
- the cutting edges are straight and identical in length, they have the same apex angles (as well as point angles) in relation to the drill axis.
Finishing is no less important - this is the final stage of our work with you, the final processing of the tool. The procedure is necessary to ensure that the surface becomes smooth, without jagged edges. A tool that has been fine-tuned acquires higher wear-resistant properties than simply after sharpening.
To carry out the procedure, production facilities have finishing machines and special grinding wheels are used. When professional sharpening is done, the finishing stage is mandatory. This increases the service life of the tool.
There is a lot of information in the article, you can highlight the main points in abstracts:
- sharpening is carried out professionally and on your own;
- Safety glasses are required when working;
- sharpening machine - a necessary purchase;
- For drills with a diameter of up to 3 mm, single-plane sharpening is suitable;
- for wider ones, a conical sharpening is suitable;
- in the absence of a sharpening machine, sharpen the drill with a grinder;
- Pobedit drills require special equipment;
- If you have the opportunity to make adjustments, do it.
If you are an absolute beginner and have never sharpened tools, carefully watch the video above and get to work. Here we will give a small but valuable piece of advice. First, sharpen not the drill that you really need for work, but one of the old ones that you probably have on the farm. This will help you “get better”, feel the pressure, understand the angle and gain confidence. Read articles on our website and benefit from the experience of the masters! Good luck to you!
Source: https://seberemont.ru/kak-pravilno-zatochit-sverlo/
How to sharpen a drill correctly: features of drill sharpening
Very often in everyday life we use a tool such as a drill. Everyone knows that this thing is irreplaceable and should always be at hand. You can quickly make a hole in the right place using a drill, for example, to hang a mirror.
The tool always comes with a set of drills of different diameters, thanks to which you can easily drill a hole in the wall.
During operation, parts become dull and need to be sharpened. Most owners solve this problem simply - purchase new ones. And some take matters into their own hands and sharpen the details to a shine.
Here we will describe in detail how you can sharpen metal drills efficiently and quickly.
You will need:
- a small machine or grinding wheel;
- drills that need to be sharpened;
- bowl of water;
- glasses that can protect you from dust.
The main thing is to understand the principle of the whole process.
Spiral sharpening
Most often, metal drills need sharpening. These elements must always be sharpened, otherwise the work will stall. A bad drill will heat up the drill, causing it to wear out even more. If you hear squeaking and humming, it's time to sharpen the part.
While at home, it is better to use a sharpening machine with a small stone. As for sharpening methods, this will directly depend on the desired shape of the back of the part.
The forms can be different, namely:
- Screw.
- Single-plane.
- Two-plane.
- Cylindrical.
- Conical.
Sharpening of the product should be done exclusively along the back edge. The 2 teeth should be sharpened equally.
Important! Doing this process yourself will be inconvenient. Also, in addition to the inconvenience, it is very difficult to maintain the required angle and maintain shape.
Planar option
Single-plane sharpening is characterized by a clearance angle that averages 30°. During operation, the part must be turned towards the grinding wheel so that its cutting part runs parallel to the circle. In this case, the product cannot be twisted; it must be in one position.
Conical version
If you want to sharpen the drill more than 3 mm, then you should choose the conical method. This is a very complex, labor-intensive process that takes a lot of time. You need to grab the part by the tail with your right hand, and with your left hand grab the work area closer to the intake cone.
For grinding, the product should be pressed firmly against the end of the stone with its back surface and cutting edge. Next, you need to slightly rock the part with your right hand, thus forming a conical surface on the edges. The main thing is to sharpen the product carefully and smoothly, without removing your hand from the sharpening tool.
Important! When sharpening the part, you should try to preserve the factory shape of the drill at the back of it.
In the process of working with wood, the products practically do not become dull, they can be used for a long time, they completely retain their original characteristics, which cannot be said about drills for metal and concrete. By periodically sharpening parts, drills will make holes faster and better, and their service life will increase.
Source: http://amstafkomanda.ru/remont/kak-pravilno-zatochit-sverlo-osobennosti-zatochki-sverla.html
Wood drill sharpening
Not all people who are accustomed to working with their own hands know how to sharpen a drill for metal.
Processing materials, and especially metals, is always a complex process and includes many operations.
To carry out sharpening, you need a sharp, reliable device.
In addition, when buying a drill, it is important to understand that it will have to be sharpened quite often due to the frequency of use of the cutting part.
And if it becomes dull, then it becomes unsafe to work.
Frequently asked question: what to do with a wood drill?
Technology for sharpening drills of various types
There is no need to worry here, because due to interaction with such a soft material, the tool can work without sharpening for more than one year.
But with metals the situation looks different - after a couple of months you can notice signs of loss of sharpness. How do you know when it's time to sharpen your tools?
The drill begins to hum or squeak when starting work. It generates heat and overheats.
Such a tool breaks down much faster, making metal processing impossible.
You can sharpen a drill using a machine or a special device.
If possible, it is better to trust such a process to professional equipment, but if you don’t have it at hand, you can really do everything yourself at home.
The most popular way is to make a machine with a sharpening stone at home, which is easy to use and does not require significant expenses.
The question of sharpening a drill for metal torments many people, because the center line of the cutting part can have a varied design: one cavity or two, and it can also be conical, cylindrical or helical.
Sharpening should be done correctly along the back edges. The angle at which the tool is fed into the machine plays a big role.
An incorrect angle can damage the drill beyond repair.
The cutting part itself consists of an edge - it must be the sharpest in order to cope with metals, as well as an auxiliary screw, a jumper, and the back and front surfaces.
Initial stage of work
:
First of all, let’s decide what you will need in the process of sharpening with your own hands.
When sharpening a drill for metal, and even with your own hands, you always have to look for an alternative to factory tools, because there are special sharpening machines in production.
At home, the minimum set for sharpening a metal drill will be more difficult to find.
First you need to buy special grinding wheels.
Usually you need one circle, but with frequent use it will wear out quickly, so it is better to take several at once, for a reserve. The circle itself is installed on a rotating shaft with your own hands.
We also need a container and the coolant itself: here you can even choose water or engine oil.
While the drill is being sharpened, it will also heat up at the same time. If it is not cooled, then during operation it will fail faster due to the temperature difference.
It is equally important to maintain the angle; here eye control is unacceptable. It is because of this problem that people buy a special device so as not to constantly carry out tedious calculations.
It is necessary to know the angle of approach of the metal drill. The main angle is the rake angle, it can be defined in the main cutting plane as the angle between the front part and the base of the cutting part.
The rear angle has the same parameters, only on the rear plane. The angle at the top can be seen if you look at the metal drill from the side: it is located between the two edges.
It is believed that for the front angle you need to maintain a slope of 20 degrees, and for the rear - 10 degrees. The angle at the top is the same in all metal drills and has a value of 118 degrees.
Don't forget to take precautions when working with your own hands. Since we have to work with sharp parts, it is better to protect our hands with gloves. Be sure to wear glasses while sharpening.
In the process, small particles will fly off from the circle, which are also very overheated.
Watch the position of the tool, because if the feed angle is incorrect, it can be torn out of your hands.
Let's start the sharpening process
First, let's look at how to properly sharpen a drill yourself using sandpaper.
The main process falls on the back. We turn on the device with emery and, holding the metal drill tightly, bring it to the circle so that the cutting part is directed towards the sharpener.
We will get a parallel arrangement of the drill relative to the mechanism. Having sharpened the tool in this way, we get a high-quality drill for metals.
This simple sharpening is suitable for drills with a diameter of no more than 10 millimeters.
If it increases, then you can add the total sharpening time, pay more attention to the front side, and so on.
You can sharpen a drill in this way until the diameter exceeds 16 millimeters.
However, for devices with large diameters, or when working with dense metals, a machine may be needed.
This device allows you to make sharpening safer and correctly control the angle of inclination.
In addition, if you need to constantly be able to sharpen your tools, then your own machine will come in handy.
It is especially beneficial to install such a device at home if you need to sharpen carbide drills for metal.
There are certain requirements according to which sharpening should be carried out only on a machine:
- if we work with drills that are used to work in blind holes, with a reduction in the axial cutting force;
- working with universal tools that have great strength, which makes it possible to process durable metals;
- work with a point of smaller thickness if drilling to a significant depth is required.
The main task that the machine must perform is not just sharpening, but correctly orienting the drill along the metal relative to the circle. Therefore, its design has a base plate.
Both the machine itself and the engine, the shaft of which allows turning, are installed on it. There we also connect the rotary column on which the drill will be attached.
It rotates in a position convenient for us - another plus in the ability to position the tool.
Advantages of using the machine
Another feature that the machine provides is movement with the help of a motor.
Therefore, it is realistic to use any bearing assembly with a shaft as a column.
At the end of the shaft we will have a mount for the drill. It is best to use bolts for secure fixation.
After the tool is fixed, turn on the sharpener, and the column itself is brought to the circle so that the back of the metal drill is turned to sharpen.
This is convenient, because even before turning it on, we can set the correct angle to sharpen the drill.
There is also a machine that has a more compact design.
The main disadvantage of a conventional device is that you cannot take it outside the garage, and you need a lot of space inside the room.
Therefore, there is an option to use an attachment machine.
In such a device, on one side there is a connecting unit, thanks to which the attachment is installed on the drill spindle, and on the other, you can find a hole for drills for metals.
It’s easy to sharpen a tool in this way, even with your own hands - just insert it all the way and turn on the mechanism.
The riskiest option is sharpening with a grinder or other portable device with a moving wheel. What is the danger? It will be extremely difficult to secure the device.
And the slightest shifts during work can result in injuries. A grinder cannot achieve high quality; it is only suitable for metal drills with a small diameter.
And after the sharpening process, you cannot do fine-tuning.
Finishing is an important part of the process when it is necessary to sharpen a tool.
In factory conditions, it allows you to remove all irregularities at the end of the procedure and make the cutting part smooth.
If the drill is solid and uniform, it will last much longer and better.
If desired, finishing can be done at home. To do this, we simply change the circle to one made of silicon carbide.
What should those who have a pobedit drill bit with tips for the strongest metals do? Even it can be sharpened, despite the fact that such a device wears out much more slowly.
A diamond stone is used as a grinding wheel. With this process, an emery wheel simply will not give the desired results.
Before sharpening a tool, it is worth measuring the soldering, because if it is less than 10 millimeters, there is no point in sharpening. Only a complete replacement is needed.
Remember that the harder the tool material, the lower the wheel rotation speed should be.
And for a pobedit metal drill, the speed is generally at a minimum so as not to damage the cutting part.
Sharpening is carried out with short and smooth touches, excluding sudden movements.
If we are talking about soldering, then they are sharpened in the same way as ordinary drills - from the back side.
Source: https://stroyvolga.ru/%D0%B7%D0%B0%D1%82%D0%BE%D1%87%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D1%81%D0%B2%D0% B5%D1%80%D0%BB%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D0%BE-%D0%B4%D0%B5%D1%80%D0%B5%D0%B2%D1%83/
Lewis drill. Wood cutting spiral
The Lewis drill is designed to produce deep, small-diameter holes in wood of various species with any degree of humidity. The screw-shaped cutting edge of the drill begins with a sharp tip, with the help of which preliminary centering of the future hole is performed. And the spiral itself removes chips from the working area.
Design
The Lewis drill is included in the basic tool kit of a professional carpenter, being lightweight, it does not load the motor of an electric drill, and allows you to make blind and through holes in hard-to-reach places: corners of beams, places where wooden parts are overlapped, etc.
The twist drill consists of the following sections:
- A shank that has a hexagonal profile and is designed to fix the drill in the chuck of a drill or drilling machine.
- The main working part, which is a spiral tape of a constant cross-section and a relatively small angle of inclination. For the Lewis spiral, it is selected in such a way as to ensure reliable removal of chips from the drilling zone.
- Centering, ending with a tip with a conical thread, which allows reducing the axial load during the operation. For a tool of relatively low rigidity (and a twist drill is just that), high axial loads become the main cause of failure.
Due to the complexity of the Lewis drill profile along its length, such equipment is almost never manufactured in a welded version. The material is high-speed steel grades 10Р6М5, Р6М3 and the like, according to GOST 19265-74.
A special feature of the Lewis spiral is its single-thread nature, which provides the drill with the ability to spontaneously retract into the cavity of the resulting hole. At the same time, the direction of the drill improves, and as the hole deepens, the edge is trimmed to obtain a smooth generatrix.
How does a Lewis drill work?
At the initial moment of drilling, a conical tip is pressed into the material, which, when rotated, is embedded deeper. Then the main, spiral part of the drill rests on it.
Unlike other designs of wood drills, the tool in question initially has only one working edge, and then drilling occurs with a spiral cutting part.
By increasing the total length of the cutting edge, this helps to reduce the total axial force on the drill, but increases the risk of jamming and “driving” of the drill from the center.
The first problem is solved as follows. Firstly, it is preferable to install a Lewis drill on low-speed, more powerful drills. Secondly, such spiral-like drills are inappropriate to use for making holes in hardwood, since the resulting chips contribute to jamming the waste in a rather long groove. Typically, the number of revolutions is chosen inversely proportional to the diameter of the resulting hole.
To solve the second problem, a twist drill can be used as a reamer, and the preliminary pass, with the exception of particularly deep holes, can be performed using a regular drill. From operating experience it is known that direct production of holes using a Lewis drill is advisable for diameters not exceeding 1530 mm. In other cases, feather drills are used, and twist drills are used only on the last pass, when it is necessary to increase the smoothness of the side walls.
The moisture content of the wood does not matter when using such a drill, nor does the direction of the wood grain.
Features of use
Among the advantages of Lewis drills it should be noted:
- Smooth increase in work load as the tool deepens into the material.
- High quality of the inner surface of the hole, since the burrs formed during drilling are completely cut off by the side cutting edge and are immediately removed outward by the auger generatrix of the drill.
- The wide helical flute ensures reliable removal of chips, regardless of their quantity.
- The hexagonal tip on the shank ensures reliable retention of the drill in the chuck.
High quality and productivity, especially noticeable when producing holes of significant depth, do not cancel out some of the limitations of twist drills:
- When a Lewis drill jams, which is possible when working with hard wood, it stops almost instantly and is accompanied by a sharp kickback. This could result in injury to the worker.
- Since the cutting forces during such drilling are high, the quality of the material is decisive for the durability of the auger drill. Therefore, it is worth purchasing tools from well-known manufacturers who indicate the steel grade (the grade is usually not indicated on Chinese-made drills).
- A twist drill has increased fragility, since during hardening it is usually calcined over the entire cross-section. With relatively low rigidity, this can cause destruction of the working part.
- The cost of Lewis drills is higher than regular ones, with the same diameters of the resulting holes.
- Low-power drills (less than 1000 W) may not be able to turn a drill of this design when started. It is also important that the drill has a reverse function.
How to sharpen a Lewis drill?
With a sharp increase in load during drilling, as well as deterioration in the quality of the resulting hole, Lewis drills must be sharpened. It is performed in the following sequence:
- When single-plane sharpening, the back angle of the drill is given a value of 2832º using a file, and they try to maintain this value along the entire length of the screw part. When using a grinding wheel, the drill must not be moved. This sharpening is used for small diameter twist drills;
- When conical sharpening, which should be done for drills with a diameter of more than 68 mm, the tool is placed at the side of the grinding tool. Hold the tip with your right hand, and the screw part of the drill with your left hand, and as close as possible to the cone. By rocking the tool at an angle of approximately 45º and pressing it against the end, they try to recreate the previous value of the taper when moving from the threaded part to the screw part;
- If it was not possible to maintain the required parameters, the Lewis drill can be sharpened. For this purpose, the rake angle is reduced and the width of the cutting band is increased. True, the drill cannot be used with the same efficiency for drilling viscous wood with high humidity;
- At the final stage, the drill is fine-tuned, which consists of removing all identified marks and nicks, after which the conical thread on the tip is restored.
Working with Lewis drills must be done with some experience, since this tool design is very sensitive to the torques that load the drill.
Source: https://proinstrumentinfo.ru/sverlo-spiral-levisa-po-derevu-zatochka/
How to drill a hole in ceramic tiles with your own hands
The question of how to drill a hole in ceramic tiles often becomes the logical conclusion to renovating a bathroom, toilet or kitchen. When it comes time to hang cabinets, shelves, mirrors and other necessary accessories, many inexperienced craftsmen begin to panic. And in some ways they are right - the fragile surface of ceramics easily cracks at the slightest impact loads.
Drilling through ceramic tiles is actually not a problem. Moreover, the word “drill” means making a hole of any diameter: be it for a dowel or for a water pipe. This can be done both at the stage of laying ceramic material and after completion of all tiling work. Let's consider both options for drilling a hole in ceramic tiles.
Creating holes during the tiling stage
These methods are excellent for making large diameter holes. Usually one of two methods is used - they are simple, but not the most aesthetic.
Holes are obtained by fracture. We mark the tile and mark the center of the future hole. An incision is made through it and excess ceramic is removed with special nippers until the desired diameter is obtained.
Drilling along the contour is a long and labor-intensive process
The holes are made by partial drilling. We outline the outline of the hole and carefully drill many small holes along it. Afterwards the middle is squeezed out, and the uneven edges are processed with sandpaper.
How to drill a hole in small ceramic tiles
How to drill a hole in ceramic tiles after all work is completed. It’s more difficult, if only because if a fault appears, the section will have to be replaced, and this is a labor-intensive process.
To avoid splitting the fragile glazed surface, there are several professional secrets. And the first one is a good drill. The following types of drills are used for drilling ceramic tiles:
- With diamond tip. This is the most expensive solution, but it makes drilling fragile surfaces a pleasure.
- With a pobedite tip. It is also called a high-hardness drill. Ideal solution for home use.
- Special drills. They are usually used for ceramics and glass.
Noteworthy information: How to properly sharpen a drill for metal , How to drill glass
It turns out that depending on your finances and goals, you can choose any type of instrument.
Operations are carried out in the following sequence:
Apply masking tape to the future drilling site. Its task is to prevent the drill from sliding on the smooth surface of the tile. Another solution to the same problem is punching the surface using a drill or tap.
We fix any of the above drills in a hammer drill or drill and drill a hole at low speeds.
After the tile is drilled through, you can change the drill to a regular one and prepare a hole of the required diameter in the concrete or brick wall.
It is recommended to cool the glass with water during operation. If you have to drill into the tiles before laying, you can soak the ceramics for several hours. Such manipulations reduce the risk of cracking of the fragile material during work.
The described method is excellent for producing holes with a diameter of up to fifteen millimeters.
Information to note: How to glue glass to glass SIP panels .
Drilling large holes in ceramics
There are several options here. To drill a large diameter hole in floor and wall tiles use:
- "Ballerina";
- Diamond crown;
- Tungsten bit with centering link;
- Crown with pobedit teeth.
"Ballerina" is the easiest way to cut a hole in a tile. All that is required from the master:
- Set the desired radius;
- Mark the drilling center;
- Drill through the tile at low speed.
Since it is necessary to hold the drill strictly perpendicular to the tile, it is recommended to use a special tripod.
"Ballerina" allows you to drill holes of different diameters
Diamond crown solves all problems. With it, like a drill, you simply drill out the required hole diameter without any preparatory work. The only negative is the high cost of the tool, which makes its purchase justified only by professional builders.
As for other types of crowns, they should be chosen with centering drills. This will help you do all the work more accurately and avoid damage to the ceramic material.
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Source: https://stroitelinfo.ru/remont-i-otdelka/kak-prosverlit-otverstie-v-keramicheskoj-plitke